djr81

They were sold new in Australia for a time, so your chances are not good. Check for anyone offering compliance (doubtfull) Additionally the Japanese know the value of the late model versions and some of them go for huge money. Why not just try & find one locally?

A few points, mostly pedantic. 1. Richards hit the wall twice. What you see on the television was the result of him trying to return to the pits with three slick shod wheels on his car. 2. The race was not stopped because of the rain it was stopped because of the pile up at Forrest elbow. From memory the leading Corolla in the tiddlers class also ended up in the wall. 3. It is hard to be exact about how far ahead the Skaife/Richards GT-R was simply because the Johnson/Bowe Sierra had called in for wet tyres - something Fred Gibson failed to get right. The Sierra was on the lead lap when the race was red flagged. My dodgy memory is trying to tell me Crompton & Oloffson were not on the lead lap, but I am not 100% sure. 4. There was nothing unbelievable about the Nissan getting handed a 100kg penalty. Almost all the eligible cars got some sort of restriction for 1992. 5. Denny Hulme died of a heart attack. This caused him to go off the track. The off did not cause his death. The loss of a F1 world champion, particularly one as loved as Denny was simple awful. 6. The only video I have found runs to 2 hours. There is a bloke selling full length copies of the race, somewhere. 7. CAMS has to replace the Group A format with something. Either the 5 litre V8's or the 2 litre Super tourer class. Whatever you may think of the V8's given the demise of 2 litre touring cars in Britain as elsewhere it is churlish to criticise CAMS for that decision.

Got a reply back from Nengun saying that yes they can supply the aftermarket sized Project Mu hatted rotors. But then they supplied a link to their listing which did not include any of them.

1. I didn't want to get into film thickness & tolerencing because alot of people think thicker = better. But it is part of the virtuous circle that better tolerencing of components allows you to enter. Also less internal friction = free horsepower & also less heat build up. 2. The 7.5W30 rating came from the Gt-R manual, so I know it is correct. NFI what the GTS-T's run at, but it cannot be much different. 3. I suppose my point was that I am not sure where the gain is in using the most expensive oil you can lay your hands on and then trying to extend the service interval. Most RB's have a fair amount of blow by & run rich. Neither of which is helpful in allowing the oil to put up with a long interval. Add to that the high temps often experienced & well, my chosen solution is to compromise on Mobil 1 (mostly bought on special) & change it regularly. 4. The major difference is its propensity to p!ss oil over your driveway. 5. You wont get any disagreement out of me on that score. But where do you draw the line? Twice as much spent on oil for a 2x longer service interval. Maybe it is not quite so stark, but sometimes I wonder.

But you do need an ECU which can understand their signals... http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...26dett.html#afm

The simple truth is that there are too many different considerations to get a definitive answer. There are any number of failure mechanisms, multiple areas of the conrod you need to focus on for strength considerations (eg little end, the rod proper, area adjacent to the crank, bolting etc etc), weight, materials,fit, finish, price & any number of other considerations. That is before you start factoring different engines, BMEP figures (or their peak equivalents), fuels, rev limits etc etc etc Best advice is probably to find something you like & check it has been proven in similar applications.

Had it for 12 months or so. It starts an RB26 with no problems at all. I only use my car periodically so it is not uncommon for it to sit for a length of time (fortnight, three weeks) and then be started. Battery copes fine. It has 26AH. Just be careful comparing CCA's to cranking amps to pulse cranking amps to whatever other bullshit measures some manufacturers use. Also make sure you understand how many Amp hours the thing stores. Batteries are heavy because of their storage capacity.

A few things appear to have been missed: 1. Car manufacturers have reduced the oil viscosity in their motors predominantly for better fuel economy. 2. The original R32 oil spec was 7.5W30, SG grade. 3. The API ranking is an indicator of the protective qualities of the oil. Clearly SL (Or SM) is an improvement on SG. This is more important than how the oil is manufactured. 4. Oil companies market different viscosity oils into different markets. An example would be Mobil in Canada using lower viscosities than here in Australia. Keep this in mind & remember how cold some parts of Japan can get before you start obsessing about 0W oils. 5. Just about any synthetic oil you can buy nowadays is streets ahead of what Nissan put in the car new.

Yes. Bur for whatever reason the Brembo callipers actually have quite a large piston area relative to most other makes. In this case yes, but not necessarily. The CP5555 has a larger pad and a smaller piston area than an F50, for example. A badly matched master cylinder to piston area will give you either a very long pedal or a very hard pedal. Neither of which is any good. Remember that if you run too much front (or rear) bias you will reduce your braking capacity, not increase it. See the stoptech website for more info. Also calliper rigidity doesn’t compromise braking torque as you appear to have calculated, so you can’t include for it like that. A flexible calliper will be more prone to knock off and also give you a longer pedal. Yes. A 343 rotor would leave 74mm clearance for a calliper. But you need to leave a gap to prevent stones etc getting trapped in there. So you end up with no more than 68mm or thereabouts - this isn't a great deal of room. Also 490? I think you mean 390mm. Which gives very little room for the calliper...

Good calcs but you need to include the rotor diameter in there somewhere. Sumitomo front 296, rear 297. Brembo front 324, rear 300 So the larger front rotor helps compensate on the Brembos. Some random sizes for upgrades: F40 area:53.09cm2 F50 area:55.50cm2 CP5555: 50.1cm2 (Same as 6 pot Endless) CP5200: 49.59cm2 (Same as 4 pot Alcons) All the vendors claim good balance but some are happy so sell you an F50 calliper on a 343 or 355 rotor for a GT-R whilst other will sell a CP5200 or equivalent on a 335 rotor. So who knows.

It is not so much a matter of complaining as putting up with other people continually asking what the rattle is. The procedure is simple: Put gear lever in neutral. Take foot off clutch. Ask them what noise? I have a HKS damped twin plate. Other than for the lightened flywheel it drives like a stocker.

http://www.tristatebattery.com/product_inf...products_id=982 I got a 365 CCA Deka. Works fine. It is an ETX30L. AFAIK Braille are rebadged Dekas..... Caveat: Be a little bit careful when looking at cranking capacity for dry cell batteries. Some of them quote their output in different units which can be misleading.

Measure the inside diameter of the rim - that will give you an indication of clearance - then check for spoke to calliper clearance. How big a brake set up you can run depends on the rim, the rotor & the calliper so it is not an easy question to answer. Obviously the BBS rims will clear the Brembo stuff fitted to the V-Spec 32's with a 324 rotor. DBA4000 series rotors are nothing special, other than the fact they have a whole thread dedicated to them. It is a good read.... DBA do not make 5000 series rotors for R32's, you will have to import something if you want aluminium hats. Heat dissipation is reliant on the amount of air pumped through the rotor. Designed just using pillars move less air than those with proper vanes. The more vanes the more air is moved, but the heavier the rotor ends up. Slots help a little with pedal feel when you are trying hard as they help de gas the pad. Make sure your rotors are of sufficient thickness, not gouged or warped & then just use them till they die. As was first said get yourself a brace for the master cylinder, maybe some braided lines for the fron callipers, some good fluid & some pads. The brakes will feel alot better for it. Oh and make sure they are bled properly.

Brake shoes - try project mu. racer industries local, usual suspects on import.

To whom did you send your enquiry? 345*32 - for the Evos. No idea what the hat offset is, however. http://www.project-mu.co.jp/e/product/caliper_R6.html

Not sure if it helps but Project Mu do aftermarket sizes. 355 * 32 among them.

Yes please, want want.

As long as the piston area of the new calipers is similar to those of your current set up the ABS will cope. The 4wd system doesn't care. If you use your car on the track (Properly) chances are you will crack the discs at some stage. Best bet is to select rotors to avoid this problem as much as possible. If you don't then there is no point spending large on brakes. Look for the thread on this very issue and get busy with the paper & scissors. Ask questions of the vendor. Then you will get the usual blandishments that are completely meaningless. They all say they work beautifully but recommend all sorts of different rotor diameters & piston areas. Make of that what you will. The booster uses vacuum to reduce pedal effort. By lines I assume you mean braided hoses. These swell less when you brake hard than old rubber alternatives hence less pedal travel is wasted.

My battery charger won't charge a completely flat dry cell. It just sees an open circuit & shuts down. So I just borrow the neighbours skanky old one which isn't clever enough to care. Works fine.

Ah, um, sorry. Me neither. Saturdays at work suck too. There was a good story from the VK Commodores at Spa in 1986. There is a book about it - Brock Moffat on the road to Spa.

I would disagree with that to an extent. Basically whetever is remaining of the road cars in the V8 is there merely to make them look a little bit like what you can buy down the dealership. For instance the road car chassis not longer has any load bearing contribution - it is rivetted to the spaceframe rather than welded. Both the FG & the VE have different wheelbases & trackwidths than the road cars. The front quarter panels are fibreglass & not even close to the factory dimensions, rear door skins on the Commodores are now fibreglass too. The suspension (paticularly the rear, live axle) was originally included because the VP & EB Falcons had live axles but mostly because they were cheap. Struts were used in the Commodores front ends, wishbones in the Falcons. Obviously now both front & rear V8 suspension packages bear no resemblance to anything leaving the factory. My point is that is obviously difficult to drive the V8's well. You can see this by how many people struggle when they get into the series proper & by how many mistakes the development series drivers routinely make. I don't think that the difficulties are derived from the road cars - there isn't enough of them left to matter. I think it is a result of the regulations. I would reckon any Group A car is by definition, more compromised by its factory origins than a V8.

Just get a dry cell battery, a box & install it in the boot. The good things about doing this are: Moves weight tot he rear. Frees up room under the bonnet ( I relocated the carbon canister for more air to the filters) Bad thing is if you need to carry stuff you have alot less room.

Heal & toe. Sort of. It will stop the diff locking on clutch release, but probably not as the engine drops revs by itself. Nismo do upgrade kits for the stock diffs as well as the stuff listed so far. There is another thread not dissimilar to this one which is worth looking through.

The two way will lock when you have torque transmitted via the engine on the over run, ie when the motor is slowing the car down. This commonly occurs on corner entry and yes it makes the back end reluctant to turn = push understeer. Check the Nismo site as the TT version for the GT-R's is only a new addition. Rather than just believe the website send them (Or another of the importers...) an email to check. They should be readilly available in Australia. The difference in the two versions is basically the ramp angle. TT Pro is more gentle and is better if you want to use it on the road. Don't use a 2 way on the street.

Closest I found was this. It is from an R34 so they do fit, but it was done in Japan & the bloke concerned obviously couldn't say how much messing around it required. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Eo...;hl=rockhampton