djr81

No a 2 way is not for dragging. Which is not to say you can't succesfully use one. You need to understand what the 1 way, 2 way means. Best off doing a search, but roughly they work as follows. Basically they are mechanical limited slip differential where the engine torque helps clamp the friction plates in the diff. A one way only does so under acceleration. A two way acts under acceleration but also on the over run. Hence it is useless for drag racing. A one & a half way is supposedly in between but in reality the ramp angles on the over run on the Nismo diff are square so it is a bit of marketing bullshit. Remember that the pre-load gives you an LSD function without any engine torque. The more aggressive of the Nismo LSDs are a nasty thing on the road. You cannot gently turn a corner with any engine torque without the diff locking/clunking. Look to the pro lsd tt version if you use the thing on the road.

The 1.5 way diff isn't really a 1.5 way, but anyway. You wont need a 2 way for a hill climb, in fact you would be better off without it. As for track work a 1.5 is better anyway. Remember the Nismo diffs have adjustable presets. Check the nismo website www.nismo.co.jp

Engine failure is not uncommon on GT-R's. For $10k it may well be worth looking at.

This proves my suspicion that, oh you work it out for yourselves.... http://www.carcentral.com.au/20080506589/m...-indy-2005.html

Went to Albany on the weekend...

Do you have the manual. If so it will have a procedure. If not say so & someone will dredge the relevant bits up.

The are rear sway bar links that won't fit a standard Nissan swaybar. Reason being the Whiteline ones have the bottom locating bolt horizontal, NIssan have it vertical. Having said that if you can't return them for any reason let me know as I would be interested in buying them.

For the record, this is the approved method.

The colour scheme is a rip off of the one Nissan ran in 1991.

As had been suggested a number of times the list of things to do are: Don't use DBA 4000 series rotors, find something else. I would suggest Project Mu as they are getting more & more competitive on price. A decent pad is a Ferodo DS2500. Get them from a proper brake shop & not somewhere like Repco who will just fk you about and confuse themselves. There are a number of other pads sabout which may suit you. Front set is $300 approx. Get some new fluid. Motul RBF 660 is good/cheap(ish). Braided lines will help wil pedal feel but aren't strictly necessary. Make sure you get ADR compliant ones. What will help is a master cylinder stopper. Cusco do a nice one. Lastly the Brembo callipers fitted to Skyline are poverty pack rubbish & in no way worth the kinds of money people ask for them. That is by way of general comment.

If you are going to bother bringing something back then make it something that was never sold here. Eg anything with Cosworth in the name, a Lancia Delta Integrale, an early BMW M3 (LHD so not sure if you can rego them outside WA) Don't bother with common or garden variety stuff.

Yes you have an oil cooler/warmer. There is a feed that takes water from the radiator & via a small heat exchanger helps warm/cool your oil. The exchanger is just behind the oil filter. HICAS = marketing wank. Mine was an R32 so removing it saved alot of weight & stopped me from scaring myself silly. Personally I hate it but alot of people don't mind it. If you are aware of its function ie you can feel it when you are driving then you will be in a position to decide. If you can't feel it working then there is no point you removing it. The RB26 will be happy on 14#, in fact there is a good argument to say that is what Nissan really had in mind when they designed them. The fuel pump, regulator & coil packs will all be happy. The only caveat is if they are already stuffed replace them. Lastly dont know where you are but the stock Nissan box is fine & may stop you getting err, fined.

They do, but typically they are not set up with any useful amount of pre tension hence don't actually function as an LSd very well. Certainly not on a circuit with proper tyres & a good amount of rwhp.

You haven't said what tyres you are running although I would guess from the desciption it was street tyres. The fundamental question you need to ask yourself is do you wish to continue running on those tyres or get something more suitable. The reason it is such an important question is that the setup options are, to a large degree, dictated by what rubber you have. What sort of light mods? 1. Better tyres will be # 1 with a bullet. 2. Stiffer sway bars front and rear. 3. More -ve camber at the front. 4. Lose the HICAS 5. Stiffer suspension. 6. Get some half decent brake pads. 7. Increase the boost to 14#. 8. Install a better rear LSD. You may have done some of these things. For reliability an oil cooler is a must. Also overfill the motor with oil. For better track times spend some time with an instructor. This would be my # 1 go fast "modification".

There is an age old saying Duncan: The fastest cars are in the car park. Most people with a half decent track car will stare at their feet & start mumbling when asked what it has on it. Most people with a half decent road car will bang on about it for hours and hours, or post up some huge thread in an internet forum.

Aluminium sheet is easy, cheap & light. You can get whatever guage you want (eg 0.8mm, 1.2mm, 1.6mm) from most industrical insulation businesses. It is easy to bend about and doesn't weigh very much at all.

Which means, I think, that it has been a year since Sato in the Super Aguri overtook Alonso in the McLaren on the outside. Ahh, the good old days.

Dyno sheet, Baron. Dyno sheet.

If you check the Nismo web site you will find the LMGT4 in an 18*9 is 8 kg near as damn it. Tyre is another 12kg or so. Rays wheels eg RE30 or CE28 in the same size are only 100 grams or so lighter. Not sure about the stocker however.

The cycle rate of the R32 ABS is pretty slow. Not sure how many Hz it runs at but I haven't come across an ABS that runs as slow as that one.

Sticker tells all........

The shafts in turbo chargers spin at speeds in excess of 100,000rpm. So there is no point hypothesizing about where the bits of turbine wheel, shaft & housing are going to end up because the answer is everwhere. Including in your precious RB26.

The Alonso thing, then the Spygate thing, now this. Hasn't Lewis suffered enough? http://www.news.com.au/heraldsun/story/0,2...5012974,00.html Oh and I was a Hamilton fan before I found out about this. I mean Jacques Villeneuve could drive once, then he got hooked up with her in the story. Then he got dumped by BMW. Coincidence? I think not. Good drive by Sutil by the way. Shame for it to finish in such a manner.

I watched the episode when they built the race cars. Well some of it. The "expert" commentators were explaining how putting more weight over the rear wheels helped them grip better and caused the car to understeer. It was at about that point I threw up and left the room.

The more usual ride height for the front is 355, 345 on the rear. This will help avoid your issue on the front but may cause them on the rear. It will also help the car to handle better. 255 width tyres on a 17" rim should clear in most cases - as long as the wheel offset is correct. It should be a +22 which will be written on the inside of the rim (You need to take it off)