djr81

Cheers for that. The motor I have is a bit rediculous. It has bolt ons to run it up over 500rwhp but stock internals, so has been turned down to allow it try & live a troubled life. I got crunched for time for getting the tune done which meant no fiddling of the Tomei cam gears. The joy of living in the bush is RB gurus are 180km away in Perth. Anyway I would be curious to see what people are generating in terms of rwhp through 4000rpm.

My RB feels to be more than somewhat lacking around 4000rpm. See attached chart. It has the following Garrett 28-60's 707160-5 turbos. HKS dumps. Tomei Poncams. Unadjusted cam gears. Power FC with Z32 AFM's. Stock internals with good compression. Some other random parts which probably aren't very important Basically my question is this: How can I get some more torque from 4000rpm to about 5000rpm?

First peace of advice: Sell the car & get a good example. Sorry if that sounds harsh but it will almost certainly cost you more to bring it up to spec than turning it over & finding a better one. But anyway: 1: Check the error codes (if any) on the ATTESSA unit. The light is under the ATTESSA unit & can be seen easilly if you park the car in the shed. A Tomei HICAS unit under the engine? Um, eh? 2: If the diff is leaking then get the seals fixed. Also check the backlash & the "tightness" of the LSD function whilst you are about it. 3: That sort of compression is symptomatic of a tired motor. So yes, start saving. 4: Is it normal? Yes. Get the AFR's checked on a dyno as you may well just be wasting fuel & money with an over rich mixture.

Well the key indicators would be rwhp at say 3500rpm, 4000 & 4500rpm. Lets be honest if your motor is producing good torque by then..... Snowies numbers appear to be: 3500 rpm: 125kW (100km/h) 4000rpm: 180kW (114km/h) 4500rpm: 255kW (128km/h) On the assumption that 114km/h in 4th equals 4000rpm.

Most Jap rims have the offset stamped on the inside of them. Remove the rim & check. Personally I would reckon on them being a bit less than a +18.

So whats with the disclaimer that some import companies make you sign stating it is for private use etc & you will love & indeed cherish it forevermore?

Sorry my bad. I assumed you were referring to the ATTESSA pump that plugs intot he back of the gearbox/transfer case. The internal oil pump inside the gearbox should be kept.

You are missing the point. 1: Nissan aren't a charity organisation. They exist to make a profit. That is similarly true of the dealers. So they will price the car to make the most amount of money for the business. 2: Compared to the horrific tarrifs & quotas that existed in the 70's & 80's there is almost nothing left of the protection Australian car manufacturers used to have in Australia. 10% tarriffs (excluding countries with which we have FTA's such as Thailand where you HIlux comes from) is hardly punitive. Least of all with the Australian dollar at its present level.

Yeah people get trapped and stooged to a degree. Trapped because fuel is added to the engine in volume not by weight. So a less dense fuel can will give you a higher AFR. Add oxygen in the fuel & you can get yourself in trouble. Wonderful thing if tuned properly, however. Stooged because you buy fuel by the litre not the kg. So your less fuel efficient E10 (measured in km/litre) costs more than it should.

Um well your initial assumption was both setups made the same power, so I am lost. If you are asking is it possible to have (slightly) more power and better response/midrange when comparing one set up to another then yes. But again it depends a great deal on the engine, the turbo and the tune. At the end of the day flow rate equals power - you get roughly 10 hp for every 1 lb/min of airflow. Boost is just a means of measuring how inefficient the air flow is.

E10 is typically 3% less dense than 91 Octane ULP but has a higher octane rating. It is a similar situation for V-Power (98) and the 5% ethanol blended V-Power racing (100 octane).

www.turbobygarrett.com will help with the noobism. Beyond that 2x350=700 so yes they are equal. I think the question you are trying to ask is "for an equivalent output will the twin turbo arrangement be more responsive in the mid range than the single?" Which is actually a very difficult question to answer because it is so dependent on the turbos themselves. The conventional wisdom is, however, that the answer is yes.

I got the bling one from Mountainrunner.

Meaning it is not just running for longer (ie however many minutes sat there doing fk all), it is running for longer at a non optimal (lower) temperature. If you drive it gently it warms up more quickly than when sat there idling. Ever wonder why taxi engines go forever - they don't get cold.... Nothing wrong with an idling engine, just a cold one. That is the important difference. Oh and if my neighbour had a car with a loud exhaust and insisted on idling it for 5 minutes every morning I would get bloody annoyed.

Point being is whilst you may be able to get a turbo timer you cannot get a brake rotor timer, a calliper timer, a gearbox timer, a transfer case timer, a diff timer..... With regard to warming the engine the procedure should be this: 1. Get in car. 2. Start car. 3. Drive off gently. Anything else is a waste of petrol, will wear your engine out quicker & most importantly will annoy the crap out of your neighbours or the bloke lined up to take your parking bay.

A good aftermarket rim (17*9) is in the ballpark of 7 to 8 kg. With the tyre fitted you get a total of approx 20kg (255 width x 40). Now a factory rim will be a bit heavier (for strength as much as anything) than an equivalent forgie so I would suggest that your R33 rim would be in the 7 to 8kg ballpark. Each.

Sounds like you need to do two things to further your understanding. 1: Buy a book on car handling and or driving. There is a thread somewhere on that & if you go through the titles listed & then check what they look like on Amazon. You can get most of them through the ptistop bookshop in WA if you want to sort them locally. 2. Once you understand what is happenning in a theoretical sense get an instrutor to drive the thing with you as a passenger. Either that or find some gravel roads. In the interim it may be better to explain a cornering sequence in four parts: 1. Braking. 2. Turn in. 3. Mid corner. 4. Corner exit. Chances are if you are getting oversteer it is on corner exit and is due to either poor traction from the lack of LSD (Single spinner bullshit in other words) or less likely too much throttle. I would doubt the car is oversteering in the first three stages of the corner. Hope that helps.

Yeah, I know. But last time I went down to *insert name of random plastic shop in regional WA so as to not violate forum rules* they weren't very helpfull. Had the last lot of bushes turned up out of nylon by the machine shop next to Adrenaline. May end up doing so again. Transfer case may be ready either next week or the one after that. 4WD controller turned up yesterday, so atleast something is going right.

Err, no. You can have oversteer without breaking traction. Just as you get understeer without breaking traction. Ofcourse you get it when you lose traction aswell - either locking rear brakes or with wheelspin.

Technically you have oversteer if the slip angle of the rear tyres is greater than tht of the front. An explanation which I imagine is about as helpful as a poke in the eye. Some questions for you which will make it easier for others: Does the car have an aftermarket diff or a stocker LSD or otherwise? How does the car behave when you aren't on the throttle? Do you have some photos of the car cornering? Traditionally on corner exit you feed as much throttle into the car as you can without making it oversteer too much. The more gentle you are the better it works. Low powered cars tend to be set up so they oversteer more easilly than higher powered cars. It is quicker that way. Tyres only have so much grip. Look for friction circle on the internet. Whatever grip is being used for turning cannot be used for accelerating. So you need to trade turning performance (ie cornering or generating more oversteer) with traction (ie accelerating down the straight). Broadly that is. Weight transfer tends to make a bit of a mockery of the assumptions....

Thanks gents for the help. Duncan: Used nylon on the last set of bushes I had machined up. May do so again as it works a treat. Wayne: WA you say. Wow. Gary: Drawings and photos attached. Note that the bearings listed were removed from the arms, hence the need for bushes (I didn't want to use bearings). I was thinking that a washer behind the centre sections may help the bush live a longer life. From trying to get poly machined (bored actually) before usually it comes back a bit of a mess. Not confident that it can be done & retain proper dimensional control. Anyway, hopefully it wont come to that. Cusco_arms.PDF Bushes_for_cusco_arms.PDF

BB Not so much P1 as PFO. Better than DNQ, or DNS which is my usual effort of late.

MS may not have come accross as arrogant (to your eyes, anyway) because he wouldn't even let himself get to the point of believing he was capable of doing anything wrong. Which is the worst kind of arrogance. How can you respect Alonso as a driver when he got hosed by a rookie and then spent the whole year either bleating about it or going behind his teams back to nobble them. I respected Alonso until he started pulling those bullshit stunts at McLaren. From watching his car in the sphincter of the universe in qualifying I reckon that much of its performance was down to the driver. It was an ugly, bottoming out pig of a thing. Everything sounds scripted and rehearsed because it is. PR is so overwhelming in F1 these days the drivers can only speak in cliches. Added to their complete lack of a life out of motor racing and you get dull people. Brilliant, but dull. I mean Kimi gets pissed & falls over & the whole world carries on like he is some sort of cult hero because of it. Phark they want to try outside the Burli on a Sunday morning after closing time. Multiple champions/cult heros right there lying face down on the pavement.....must be, they got pissed & fell over.

Unlike, I dunno, a twice world champion that started his F1 career in a Minardi?

Whilst I agree with most of that there is no fkn way Sebastian "Girls Blouse Wearer" Bourdais is one of the best 20 drivers in the world.