djr81

Maybe the point should be made that LH doesn't just have an autobiography. He has half a dozen unauthorised biographies as well. So it isn't like there aren't a heap of people trying to cash in on his success anyway. For me LH ticks the boxes as an F1 driver - he can drive the thing hard when when it isn't set up well, he qualifies well, he races well, he can pull bullsh!t overtaking manouvres, he is sensible enough to cruise & collect when things aren't all perfect. As for the arrogance thing - I reckon that with a few notable exceptions it is a cheap shot to call an F1 driver arrogant. Only some of them genuinely deserve that title - the amount of scrutiny & exposure these blokes get would be enough to make anyone tell the world to get lost, surely? They don't get to be at the top (True for any sportsman) without an enormous amount of self belief. Sometimes people see that as arrogance.

Has anyone done this? And does anyone have any advice? I want to sort some bushes for some suspension arms I have & as machining poly is not an good option I concluded that pouring them in the arms may be. Another, seemingly random question: What is the melting point for the poly?

If it is just a track day you don't need fire resistat boots. You can get a much cheaper karting shoe/boot that are every bit as good as the proper stuff, just cheaper & not fire proof. Try OMP as a start. I bought a pair for <$100 & they are really good. Something like this; http://www.ompracing.it/detail.html?productcode=IC/763E.

The transfer case has a total of seven clutch plates in it plus the equivalent number of stator plates. When put back together there is supposed to be a small 0.2 mm to 0.5mm clearance when measured as per the manual. When they wear, however, this number can get to over 1mm or worse. This obviously affects the functioning of the 4WD system. You can't tell (other than by seeing how much the car oversteers) how bad it is without pulling the whole gearbox/transfer case apart. The point I was making was start at the outside at the front & work in. So check brakes, wheel bearings, cv joints, diff etc etc. Go through the system & eliminate the parts from being an issue. Then do the gearbox/transfer case. This is the bit that costs.

I had some issues with my ATTESSA system. Turns out the front diff was stuffed. As were the propshaft uni joints. And the clutch pack. And a heap of bearings. Cost: $3k+ to fix it properly. Availability of parts: Ex Japan at two weeks (average) except you need two goes because the ATTESSA clutch pack needs a final shim which Nissan Australia don't stock. First thing to do is to disengage the AWD system & see if this changes the problem. but the bottom line is you need to take it to a mechanic & get it up on a hoist. Check the front diff for oil condition & backlash. Check the front drive shafts & particularly the CV joints. Also the wheel bearings etc. Check the propshaft. For my 10 cents worth if the above shows nothing then it sounds like an issue in the transfer case. Which is a pain in the arse to find & fix. Take it to a good/informed/intelligent mechanic & don't expect a cheap bill.

Would have liked to have seen Rosberg in the McLaren. I rate him. But there hasn't been much interesting racing this year. Nor much technical interest. Maybe when they get to Europe properly. Not that the sphincter of the universe isn't in Europe (well bits of it). You know what I mean.

Yeah, go put your house on Ferrari winning. Probably a 1 -2 with Lewis making up the podium. Beyond that BMW & Renault & Toyota. yawn. Is it just me or has this season been rubbish so far?

Wonder if this GP will reach the exalted heights of boring like the last one.

Tander won at a canter. You will doubtless get to see that happen this weekend aswell.

Well it was a malapropism, not a mis spelling. Sorry if I upset anyone, but you did ask for it to be corrected.

Err, denomination, not denominator.

There is a thread on oil about, oh 1000 pages long. In that thread you will find endless ill informed opinions about what is the "best" oil for your car. Key thing to remember this is: When built Nissan recommended an SG grade oil. The worst fully synthetic oil you can buy is now SL grade. In other words 5 standards along. I have used Castrol, Shell & Mobil. All of which are perfectly good oils & all of which are infact vastly better than the stuff Nissan tipped into it when it was built. Other people will tell you to use Redline, Royal Purple, or boundless other types of oils. My advice is to find one in the right viscosity range, ie 7.5W30 or wider with the low end being not very important, ie 10Wsomething is fine & the high end number dependent on what you use the car for & whether it has a cooler or not. Then look to check its grade - SM being the most recent, SL being the one before it. Then check the price & buy whichever of these is on special. Mobil 1 is presently on special at Repco as it happens. You need a Z145A oil filter or equivalent. When you change it get some rags to wipe the spill off the front diff, don't over tighten either the sump pump or the filter itself & tip all 5 litres into the motor.

Well this may appear to be a random question, but is perhaps relevant: What is the mechanical ratio for the suspension, ie how many millimetres or wheel articulation equals how many millimetres of spring travel? It is easy to test get a fat bastard (or dog) to sit on the diff. Measure the change in ride height & the change in spring height. Divide one by the other. If you get alot of wheel movement for a small amount of spring travel the car can be a bastard of a thing to set up.

Reason I asked is my present exhaust has a 95dBA jasma plaque on it & it is only just audible over the tyre rumble. My previous 92dBA exhaust couldn't be heard at all. The Trust wedsite had JASMA & 94 written against this exhaust - but it may just have been a reference to how many miles away they could hear the sonic boom. Who knows. Maybe they mean with the bunger stuck up it. THis is a different 80mm type. https://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm/TRUST-PETi-Pow...2-R33-R34-22075[/url]

Yes it is a the base of the lever. You need to remove the leather cover (press stud under the lever, start there) and check it is triggered when the handbrake goes off. The hand brake light also functions as the check brake light on most cars, hence the fluid level references.

Well try and buy some DOT 3 fluid. But you may find it a bit hard. Or you could just buy the dot 4 fluid that replaced it.

How loud is it? I can't reconcile the number given out by trust with the lack of muffler size...

For the love of God. DO NOT USE DOT 5 FLUID. It is not compatible with your brake system and being silicon based and gives you a horrible, spongey pedal. For some reason people assume that because it has a higher number it must be better. It isn't. Infact it is basically a blind alley that is best avoided. Use whatever dot 4 fluid is available from your local auto parts shop or, if you want to do some track work Motul RBF660 which is also a dot 4 fluid. look here: http://www.castrol.com/castrol/multiplepro...ntentId=7000977

The diff will handle more horsepower than you will have traction. The stock LSD units are not much chop. You don't get to select the diff ratio on the Gt-R, but the GTS-4 had a lower ratio so maybe try that. You probably don't need the cooler, but keep it anyway.

A reasonable period of time? The engineering world has been using it for almost as long as there has been GT-R's. It is nothing new.

Please don't scare and or confuse the people. You are thinking of GTS-T's. Gt-R's came with FMIC's from factory & installing the replacements usually doesn't require anything at all in the way of cutting.

Yeah in a rare moment of clarity I think I understand. Anyway, here is a photo of a completely random 94 model. The cut outs don't look especially factory....

Duncan, I am not sure they had the cut outs in the front bumper. In fact I am pretty sure they didn't.

Well said. Oh and the W stands for winter. Personally I just buy whatever is on special. Mobil 1 is on special at the moment at Repco.

Easy: Run the same size front & rear simply because GT-R's lack front grip & running small front tyres makes the situation worse.