djr81

Thanks Gary. Just to explain basically the problem is when I am getting off the brakes & then moving my foot over to the accelerator. The ATTESSA controller I have ordered hasn't turned up yet so the car is still suffering from a lack of traction in second gear (& third) - hence the need to try & carry some speed across the apex. Anyway, from your list: Front is high enough that it should not run out of travel. I will give the cable ties a shot but thew Collie circuit is pretty bumpy so the bump stops tend to get used anyway. I have zero toe presently at the front. Is there a X turns of the thread approx equals Ymm toe? Wanneroo is all third gear except for the short circuit which has only one second gear corner. Problem isn't so bad on third gear corners. I have to get it pretty badly wrong to get a good amount of shudder whereas it is nearly always present on the tighter stuff. I was thinking about chucking a harder front sway bar setting ont he front in the off chance the anti roll will keep the camber more correct & help front grip. I love the way stuff works completely backwards sometimes. The front bar is presently full soft. Rear bar was a Whitleine on full hard but I put a Cusco item in which isn't adjustable until I get some bits made. As much as anything I guess I was curious to see who else may have come across this.

Thanks Roy, I guess it must be a lattitude thing. I guess I will keep looking for more mid corner grip.

An odd question perhaps, but does anyone else have issues with tyre judder fron the front of their cars- particularly GT-R's. I have recently changed a couple things on my Gt-R 1. Tyre are now the S2 versions of the RE55's. 2. New 1.5 way Nismo rear diff. Which meant a change in the way the car needs to be driven, basically turn in under brakes, let the thing briefly understeer across the apex until you get on the power for the exit. Problem being in the mid corner phase (ie no brake or throttle input) there is a bad tyre judder in the 2nd gear corners. So a couple questions: 1. Has anyone else had this. 2. Any recommendations other than more -ve camber on the front, more toe out at the front? Oh the weight distribution from leaning into the corner is worth 2/10ths per lap, so please save your sledges.

Well good to see you got a result out of all the flamage on this thread.

Finally found a 32 on LMGT-4's. If anyone could colour this thing in white I would be grateful.

Good call. Except he tried the same in Perth (A venue sold out every year) Govt told him to fk off. So now he has to run any WA round at Wanneroo & the WASCC may even get some money for an upgrade (From the govt) So there are some good results when Cochrane gets fkd over.

James Hunt used to be the best. Except when he got stuck into Ricardo Patrese that is. Which was most of the time.

Well, who did win? Because of the news sites I just looked at one didn't recognise the word Targa & the other told me Eric bana just crashed FFS.

Just an observation, not a criticism.

Can you see the confusion in their eyes: Sympathy on the one hand & the revulsion of feeling such an emotion for a blood nut on the other....

The problem is most books don't spend enough time on the implications of changing the geometry on various types of suspension. eg you wont find things such as don't lower a car with a McPherson strut front end to the point that the LCA is horizontal or inclined upwards. This sort of thing can sometimes be useful: http://www.racingaspirations.com/suspensiongeometry.php

Actually when I sit in my R32 GT-R & look at the dash I think "Fk I wish this didn't look like a VN Commodore."

What I mean is it is not uncommon for people to plug in a power FC & run their cars on the base tune provided with the ECU. I did for a couple of years with mine.

You won't get any gains worth the name out of an untuned Power FC. Your money is better spent on turbos and re-tuning the stock ECU.

The problem is that most books fall into two categories. 1. Too basic. 2. Too mathematical. The one you have is probably the former, but add to the fact that it is horribly out of date also. If you want a recommendation some of Carroll Smiths stuff is ok (But similarly dated). Try either of these: http://www.amazon.com/Tune-Win-Carroll-Smi...9845&sr=1-2 http://www.amazon.com/Drive-Win-Essential-...9871&sr=1-4 If you want to risk an aneurysm go with Millikens tome: http://www.amazon.com/Race-Car-Vehicle-Dyn...d_sim_b_title_4 Remember thought, the key to it is as much about understanding tyre behaviour as understanding chassis behaviour.

Well it was a street race. Other than Adelaide the "racing" component of the weekend of a street race is always terminally dire. Think about it - Canberra, Gold Coast, Albert Park - rubbish the lot of them. For that matter other than the promoters & the pace car sponsors I can't think of anyone who wins from this. The team's bills are huge due to car damage, spectator viewing is rubbish, as is the tellie, set up costs are massive and no one gains from the thousands of tonnes of concrete needed to set up a temporary circuit. Must be the promotors earning extra coin. I can't think why else Cochrane would bother - self glorification aside.

There are two different issues. 1: Heat soak at idle 2: Heat transfer on the move. 1. Heat soak for piping can be an issue at idle. Far less of an issue that that for uncovered pod filters however & not really worth worrying about.. The area the Gt-R has insulated is basically where the hot air exits the radiator. Question - there is a temp read out available on the Power fc for the air inlet. Where is the sensor located? 2: Not an issue because the volume of air running through the inlet pipes is far, far larger than the transference of heat through it.

I thought all the journo's who wanted character in their cars had been killed when their old school 911s speared off the road backwards.

Who cares the soft tyre is just a diversion from the fact the racing is so dire. Just gives people the false hope that someones option tyre will grain & stuff their race. Bin refuelling. Give em soft tyres that only just last the distance. Kill the downforce. Then we may get some racing.

Yes it is true. Some silicon based fluids are incompatable with the seals found in the braking system.

Just understand that the 600 degrees for the brake fluid is in fahrenheit. The 300 degrees for the pads is almost certainly celsius. So the difference is actually only 15.5 degrees (celsius) Never the less the point still stands. No point having million dollar brake fluid with 10 cent pads, or the other way around even.

Point is that unless you are the next Marcus Gronholm invariably when you first start out you will suck. Badly. Everyone is the same & it is not a criticism just an observation. I sucked wang on my first few attempts (still do for that matter) but one of the best ways to learn & sharpen up is to practice. You notice it even on your first go back after Christmas. You just feel rusty. The other half of the equation is to make sure your technique is right. This is where the instructor comes in. People like John Hurney to name but one can sit in the car with you & talk you around the circuit & talk you through your technique. Your mates can't if for no other reason than they aren't allowed out on the track with you. Ofcourse if you have mates like mine they just pour scorn on you anyway.

Then you need to get the maximum seat time you can and some instruction from someone who knows their stuff (ie not your coulda woulda shoulda mates). This can be done through WASCC & also the nolimitsgroup.

Um Skylines are eligible for IPRA - you need to recheck the rules. Also be aware that racing (as opposed to motorsport like sprint events) is much more expensive. Everything from licenses, to entry fees, to wear & tear, damage & consumables will cost you alot more over a season. Plus you need driver suits, proper boots, scrutineering.....

It depends on what you are aiming at: If it is racing (as in door to door etc) then the categories run by WASCC are where you need to look. Stuff like the formula vees/fords if you like open wheelers, street sedans (Falcon/Commodores) or Improved Production (Imports etc). If it is motor sport you are looking at (ie kharnas, hill climbs, sprint events (time attack if you must)) then you can pretty much build whatever car you want & turnout whenever you want. Places to try are: www.speedeventseries.com This is WA's premier hillclimb/sprint series & features just about every type of car you can think of. www.nolimitevents.com This will get you on track at Wanneroo with an instructor & then on you own. Lots of people from here attend. www.motoringsouthwest.org.au Links to the Collie track & the events held there. http://www.dtec.com.au/ The AHG centre. Most people get a level 2 speed cams Licence (Or the alternate bodies equivalent) which gives you enough clearance to do hill climbs/ sprints/ track days/kharnas etc. Most places want Cams stuff, AHG uses the other mob. You then need to enter for a drive day or an event. Costs vary widely for these things. Check the events section of the SAUWA forums for stuff aswell. Antilag have drive days too sometimes. For zeds try these blokes: http://wazregister.com/index.php?title=Main_Page You will find people friendly and helpful at the circuits so just bail them up & ask. There is a hillclimb on at Jacks hill at Wanneroo on the 26th April for the Speed event series followed by Collie on the 4th May followed by Albany on the long weekend followed by the Wanneroo long circuit on the 19th July........ There is plenty of motorsport in WA, plenty.