djr81

Shame that. Anyway the general trend is the more tyre grip you have the higher the spring & sway bar rates you need to run. So if you are stuck being half pregnant IMHO that is more reason to run the lower rate spring.

Um, well I never claimed to be the font of all knowledge on the subject. Just that the bloke asked what people were running. So I thought I would share. I'm sorry if I confused my opinion with one that had some validity. But I have gone throught the exercise of setting my GT-R up to work on a track on R compounds.

I am basing it on the spring rates I run in my GT-R. Some people prefer harder spings, some softer. It depends on what track you run on also. As an example Phillip Island would be different to say Winton.

The front and rear have completely different issues. On the front you chuck as much -ve camber on it as you can find/stomach. On the rear, when you lower the car you end up with too much -ve camber. The kits Gary sells (& others) move the pivot points of the upper rear link outwards which fixes the excessive -ve camber. Good ride heights are 355 front, 345 rear. The Whiteline/Red ranger/Noltec gear is all good. Don't buy adjustable upper arms if you can help it. You can find all this and more in the suspension section.

Ok a few things: 1. Using RT615's is like trying to get a bit pregnant. Either buy some proper R compounds or don't. Re55's are the most popular on GT-R's due to their grip & pricing in the appropriate sizes. 2. Don't forget to include sway bars & a camber/castor fit in amongst the springs. 3. 8/6 is more than stiff enough. 12/10 is plain silly.

Photos of the sprint event.

The oil pump is only there to clamp the wet clutch for the 4WD system. So the short answer is bin it. transfer_case.PDF

I found them (2 piece project Mu's) to be good. But I have only used them at Collie & the short course at Wanneroo so far. Just haven't got to the long course with the new rotors. You should get much more than a year out of a set of rotors. There is a photo of the car on the shourt course - so the things get plenty hot enough. Thing to note with the project mu stuff is that different rotors have different amounts of vanes in them. See the photo

Justa quick aside: One of the best ways of moving more air is to get a larger diameter rotor.....

Well that is some good news. The Stoptech gear certainly move some air through the rotors. Not exactly light weight, however. But the big question is: How much? The one disappointment of the Priject Mu 2 piece was the lack of proper vanes, although they are better in that regard that the DBA gear.

Well to be perfectly honest for the amount of messing about & the cost - why don't you just import some Project Mu rotors & be done with it? As has been said it is not believed to be a metallurgical problem moreso a problem derived from the use of the small return slots around the outer circumference of the rotor.

Well don't be looking to the FIA for leadership or for fairness or accountability. Any tips for the weekends race? McLaren to come good? Williams to come good? Massa to come good?

Doesn't he just call for him to resign on a weekly basis anyway?

No the rears aren't changing, but they cannot be ignored. The front volume is (per side) 5300mm2 (For the sake of the argument). The rear volume is about half that at 2500mm2 (again for the sake of the argument). So the brake pedal has to displace 7800mm2 of piston area per side prior to any calliper being changed. If you add 250mm2 of area to the front the brake pedal has to displace 8050mm2 of piston area. So the difference is then something like 3% as opposed to 4% or whatever the difference is for just the front callipers. So in terms of pedal travel it is less significant than just looking at the front callipers. In terms of bias most manufacturers (eg AP, Endless) appear to offer callipers with smaller piston areas & bigger rotors. To keep the bias constant.

Green stuff claim 0.55 for some of them which is about right. Not sure what you have of the choices, however. http://www.ebcbrakes.com/greenstuffinfo.html Rotors. Hmm. I would recommend you either go expensive eg a Project Mu 2 piece rotor or a DBA 5000 series or go cheap, say an RDA rotor from the group buy.

Ok, a few things. 1. DS2500's are not hard on rotors. IMHO it is a little bit the other way around with relatively high wear rates on the pads. 2. How much are the HC pads? 3. If you are a track newb then DS2500 is more than enough pad. 4. Don't buy 4000 series DBA rotors - there is a whole thread on how shite they are somewhere. 5. Rear pads can be anything. Just get something that works from cold & matches the friction coefficients of the front pads. Not having used the HC, but from the specs there doesn't appear to be a huge amount of difference between them & the 2500's. The friction coefficients are the same but the HC appear to have a braoder working range. The 2500s are streetable, but I cannot comment on the HC's as I just don't know. The flat friction coefficient of the 2500's is one of their best attirbutes - particularly if you are new to track silliness. http://www.project-mu.co.jp/e/product/hc-plus.html http://www.raceshopper.com/ferodo_compounds.shtml

It is not like Nissan are alone in providing bad service. It is common amongst the majority of brands & dealerships.

Well this was the colour of my brake fluid the last time I changed it. So it shouldn't be too hard to tell the difference.

It usually means the battery is on its way out and within a few weeks will be dead. Not holding charge is usually terminal. (A little battery humour there for everyone).

Simple. No they won't fit.

Well because the brake pedal still needs to move the pistons in the rear clipers as well as the front. So you need to factor in the extra 2513mm per calliper.

ACL forgie for an RB26. 354grams. http://www.aclperformance.com.au/NissanRB2...rgedPistons.htm

Doubt it. The volumetric (big words!) difference between the two callipers is:5550 vs 5309. ie 5%. Even less when you take into account the rears. Less still when you take into account all the other slop in the system eg fire wall deflection, pedal deflection, expanding hoses.....

I will be heading to the sprint event on the foreshore on Saturday. If anyone wants say hello I can wear a rose on my lapel or something. I will be the grumpy looking bloke not entered in the event because my car is broken. Again.

Just be careful to try & confirm whether the rods include big end bolts or not. Those Argo rods appear fairly heavy. Carillo Pro-H 507g Pro -SA 488 Pro - A 474grams Note the first two are H pattern the last I section. They are (I understand) listed from heaviest duty to lightest duty. I am not sure if they include for rod bolts or not.