djr81

front: LH upper balljoint has play. It is not a ball joint. You need a replacement bush kit try Noltec, Nolathane & Whiteline. RH tie rod ends has play - suggestion to replace both sides Rack mounts worn - require replacement Rack knocking, LH boot broken - requires replacement These three are all one. Get it fixed as one. rear: lower shock mount bushes fatigued/splitting - requires replacement Shouldn't be hard. Find someone with either a good shock or a bush. There are Tein distributors in Australia. Check in with them. sway bar bushes fatigued - recommend replacing d+link bushes Again, not hard. Just about any half decent auto parts palce can sell them to you.

Yeah I assume so. Also if anyone has random conrod weights maybe they could get chucked in here too.

Don't use semi slicks on the road. Why? Because they are, in no particular order: Noisy. Stiff in the sidewalls which gives you a harsh ride. Expensive. Short lived. Pick up every stone etc on the road & fire it into your paint. And, um oh yeah A WASTE OF MONEY A semi slick needs temperature to generate its grip properly. Other than driving like a complete fkwit on the road you will not generate these temperatures. So you will never get the gain out of the tyre you wanted. Just go and buy some good road tyres.

Just be a bit careful. Dry ice is carbon dioxide. So don't do this stuff in your shed & make sure you have good ventilation. There, my good deed done for the day.

The 15 degrees is your base timing. They do it in such a way as the ignition advance at idle is your base timing. Which in turn (At idle) will be the same as your ignition timing. They can be the same number. If it is 5 degrees retarded the car will drive like, well like it is retarded. When the motor is running you can commonly see thirty to forty degrees ignition timing. Advice, not advise.....

The photos aren't of a Gt-R LCA. They were just a random sample to show people generally what they are like. From the Nismo site the GT-R ones look to be cast or atleast not folded as you have said. Sorry for any confusion. Car is 4WD.

You are wasting your breathe trying to get a dealer to service your car in any other way than the way THEY want it done. Basically if it involves you asking them for something it will be too hard.

Unfortunately from what I understand only the R32 GT-R ones fit the R32 Gt-R's. Otherwise I would buy them.

Base Timing & Ignition Timing. Put simply the ECU adds and subtracts ignition timing from the engine dependent on such things as airflow, throttle position, water temperature, air temperature etc etc etc. It takes your base timing (whatever you have set it to) & then via its function works out the ignition timing. Usually an RB26 has a base timing of 20 degrees. Ignition timing varies widely however. You alter the base timing by moving the crank angle sensor. The ECU alters the ignition timing. Cam Timing Cams are phased to align to the crank. So an inlet cam may open say 10 degrees before the crank reaches top dead centre. You can alter the cam timing (with the right parts and or if it is a late model RB via Nissan electrical/oily bits) so the cam may, for example, open at 15 degree BTDC. In other words change the cam timing.

Dunno. ACL is what used to be the manufacturing arm of Repco before the companies were split up. They are, technically the rightful inheritors of the Repco moniker as it relates to Formula 1 motors etc, not the local Repco outlet selling Chinese shit. Anyway here are the quoted numbers for Ross Pistons: ENGINE CODE RB26DETT BORE 3.406 BORE(mm) 86.5 STRK 2.900 CH 1.191 CR 8.5 APPLICATION TURBO NITROUS ROD LGTH 4.783 HEAD CC 70.0 DOME VOL 19 GRAM WT 355 PART# 99876

In other news J M Belestre passed away. Belestre had Max Mosleys job before max came along. You lot don't remember but Belestre and Senna went to war in the late eighties. The thing is Max Moseley taking on the job was welcomed at the time because he (in contrast to Belestre) seemed quite sane. Makes Jean Marie efforts with a dodgy roller skating trannie at the French GP one year look like the work of a complete amateur.

F50's are 2 x 44 & 2x40. F40's are 2x44 & 2x38 same as the povvo pack version Nissan fitted standard.

i may have missed something but in doing some homework re piston selection I am struggling to find a source for piston weights. So I thought I would start here. Mahle RB26 forged are 320 grams each. Part # NIS191405D16 RB25 forged are 343 grams each. Part # NIS232385I12 RB30 forged are 312 grams each NIS264405I05 Anyone with stock weights?

Me too. Or some 2860 707160-7 ie the dash 7 version.

Well I have the same cams, turbos and get full boost by 4500rpm. But then again I am only running 15# for a desultory 435rwhp and haven't tuned the cam gears. So I guess is all relative. How much power have you got at 4000rpm? Mine is about 165rwhp @4000rpm.

Evo Brembos....

This: http://www.theage.com.au/news/world/bscand...6850754372.html

The bottom line is that unless someone has the compressor maps for the HKS turbos (The garrett ones are freely available) comparing the two is subjective as much as anything. Comparing different dynos with different tunes & RB's with different bolt ons & in differing condition is difficult to impossible. Oh and just to declare my prejudice I have the dash fives. They are a nice turbo, but for a street car you can get into more than enough trouble with stock cams & HKS SS turbs. Either turbo (ie a 2530 or a 2860 dash 5) will outperform an unopened RB26.

I use DS2500's and they work fine from cold. They are low dust and have a good friction coefficient. The only real downside is that the distributors know they are good & charge accordingly. Think $300 for a set of front pads for you R32 GT-R. So they will make a perfectly good selection for a daily although you need to understand if you don't do any track work you are better off with a road style compound.

Looks like Max Mosely is in a whole heap of trouble. Couldn't have happened to a nicer bloke. Still think his father made a more authentic fascist, however.

Took it to Bunbury Transmission & Drivetrain Specialists. They declined to work on the car because of my attitude.

They are part of the structure but only part of it. All structures twist. How much they twist is dependent on their torsional rigidity & ofcourse the load iimposed on them. The torsional rigidity of cars varies. 5 door cars (ie hatchbacks) are amongst the worst in this respect because of the large openings (from the doors/match) in the MONOCOQUE structure ie the shell of the car that gives it its strength along with the two chassis rails. R32's are not particularly rigid if that is your question. And yes even Daihatsu Charades torque steer.

Fkn winnah!! Thanks mate, that is perfect. I need some new rims & am trying to decide between LMGT4's, CE28's & Re30's. If I can find an R32 on the other two types I am half way there. Either that or I will have to try & paste the rims onto that photo. Again, thanks.

You are both wrong. So that is the argument settled. The chassis rail isn't a true chassis rail in the sense of a seperate chassis body arrangement (think truck, old school four wheel drives). It is however a not insubstantial part of the structure of the car and therefore should be fixed. The door flexing thing is actually the whole car twisting when it is jacked up. All cars do this to varying degrees. Typically the newer the design of the car the higher the torsional rigidity of the thing.

As the title says I am looking for a pair of lower control arms for the front of an R32 Gt-R - as made by Nismo. They should look something like this.