djr81

Rather than the stainless steel wool packed into a stocking has anyone tried sintered brass exhaust silencers (As seen on ebay and the like) to filter the oil. I noticed that Mishimoto appear to use exactly that. https://www.mishimoto.com/compact-baffled-oil-catch-can-2-port.html Would be neater, surely?

I have some strut tops from isc performance. They are rubber where others are bearings. They don't knock and will last you. You will probably need to ask as they don't show therm on their site. But check your shock shaft diameter and Spring inside diameter to make sure they fit. I am on a shit iPad so can't figure out to paste a link. This may work. Or not. Search for that thread and have a read.

Having habitually run R spec tyres on track in the wet I can tell you they are fine. Faster than road tyres in fact. So NFI where the ice skates thing comes from other than Nitto probably trying to cover their arses.

Rays list them at 82,000 yen each. https://www.rayswheels.co.jp/products/wheel.php?lang=en&wheel=CE28N10 So that plus freight. Where from? Start with the likes of RHD Japan, Nengun and then move on to Jess Streeter. You are looking at over $1000 per rim and they wont fit properly. The problem with the sticky thread is that how ever well meaning it started out it is now inhabited and infected by the hektik fitment types. In the olden days the universal aftermarket rim size on an R32 GTR was 17x9+22. Which just about fits but often as not scraped on the rear. Now it is apparently 20x11.5+0 with 10 dergees camber to make it fit and no way of applying more than 3 degrees lock. Hektik in other words.

If you have some spare springs available I would chuck something like 7 or 8kg/mm on the front. If you have some anti roll bars I would do that too although 27mm front sounds odd. Is it a Whiteline bar or a Cusco? From memory they are smaller. 22mm? Anyway the idea is to add more roll stiffness to the rear relative to the front. Whatever parts you may have try them out to get a feel for setup direction. At the moment your 16kg spring is trying to resist about 3/4 of the roll which loads the tyre up hard relative to the back. Then you are asking it to turn aswell. So you get understeer.

Thoughts? Take some front spring out of it and buy some sway bars. If you are running 65mm spring they aren't more than a couple hundred bucks a pair and easy enough to change. I would start there. Chuck the 11kg back in and see what difference it makes. It should henlp in the mid corner and will then give you a direction. Castor/camber is about in the ball park but with a big spring stiffness and relatively little anti roll it is hard to be sure. I'm not a fan of the hard front/soft rear and no antil roll bar upgrades recommended by some. You will get really good traction but buckets of understeer.

You will always get understeer at Wanneroo, particularly through Kolb but also T1 and it punishes the lap times particularly hard. In no particular order I have found the following helpful. Reducing the preload on the diff. The last thing you want is it pushing the front wide and to be honest you wont get much single pegger loving anyway with less preload. Increasing the rear spring rate relative to the front. Run loads of front end -ve camber. How much do you have? Sod off big rear anti roll bars although if you go too hard on the rear realtive to spring rate the car turns in brilliantly and then washes out which makes it really frustrating to drive. There isnt a huge amount of aero to be had as the mid corner speeds are below 100km/h.

Looks purty. Are we allowed to ask what spring rates & sway bars youa re running?

To be honest suspension is best done on software - it will let you work out, for example, how much camber compensation you get in roll and a bunch of other things. Which software to pick may be your question? For a sugestion: Analysis Techniques for Racecar Data Acquisition by Jorge Segers is not the worst book by any measure. Sticking point is you need a high level logger to record data on things like damper movement etc. Also have a look here: http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/en/de/downloads/software/software_1.html

Everyone who has has an R32 has had this problem. The mode door actuator sticks. Have a fiddle with the actuator arm while you change the mode on the dash. If you are lucky it will unstick and work for another couple months before it sticks again. Either that or its completely fkd and you need to fix and or replace it. In either case have a google and you will find it behind the centre console panel thing below the glove box.

Needs to nail the apexes like that HQ in the video. Lap times would be epic.

Sideways through McPhillamy and not even the hint of a lift in the chase. Solid.

If your numbers are all the same except for one cylinder the chances are you have a problem with that one cylinder - ie #6. So yeah have another go at a compression test but dont be surprised if you have an issue particularly if it is spitting oil.

YOu could try a little company called Nissan. Or failing that http://justjap.com/driveline/gearbox/genuine-nissan-gearbox-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-gtr-5-speed.html

Like Piggas says. Diff goes clunkety clunk even on the lowest setting. Change the oil and it becomes liveable.

Still wondering wtf happened to the 7. https://shop.lego.com/en-AU/Caterham-Seven-620R-21307

Best F1 races have almost always been in the wet.

Possibly. If that last race didnt do anything for you then there is no hope at all.

Well if it has a finished space frame and a body kit you are half way there. Have a look at the SA clubbies forum for sale by way of an example. http://www.clubbiessa.com/clubbie_classifieds.shtml

Maybe but I dont like the idea of sitting on a live rear axle especially when IRS is so easy for these things. I guess you need to decide if it is to be registered or not. AFAIK you cant motorbike engine it and have it registered. That and the transplanted motor is only allowed to be so old. Cant remember how old. There are plenty of half finished clubbie projects laying about. Low ball away I say.

Well they are all a little bit different. Some have Toyota motors, one of them has a CA18DET. As long as the thing is a wide body (So you can wedge your child bearing hips into the thing) and has IRS it is not going to be that far wrong. Clubbies have been around for something like 60 years. They are all much of a muchness. AMB, Birkin, Westfield. They quality of the build and fit and finish vary widely but if you want some thing cheap, fast, driveable on the road then you can do alot worse than 7's.

Well here is a random (Maybe) example. Results from the last super sprint I did. P3, P5, P8, P11 are all clubbies. CAMS WA Speed Event Series - Motoring South West Sprint Collie Motorplex Sprint QUALIFYING COMBINED P1 Q1 Qualifying Issue 1 Page # 1 ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Pos Car Competitor/Team Driver Vehicle Cap CL Qualify...Lap Gap 1 110 Graham Renn Graham Renn Pashley Marengo 998 1A Q1 0:45.5562* 2 18 Phillip Morley Phillip Morley Nismo Sauras Jr 1298 1C Q1 0:46.5428 0:00.9866 3 41 Brent Matthews Brent Matthews Westfield 1987 2A Q1 0:47.3291 0:01.7729 4 177 Marcel Every Marcel Every TRD Formula Toyota 1600 1A Q1 0:47.9968 0:02.4406 5 39 Gary Thorn Gary Thorn Birkin S3 1997 2A Q1 0:48.0095 0:02.4533 6 55 Neil Herbert Neil Herbert Subaru 2300 5D Q1 0:48.1146 0:02.5584 7 306 Bill Stagoll Bill Stagoll Mitsubishi Evo 8RS 2000T 5D Q1 0:48.7655 0:03.2093 8 17 Ray Ferrari Ray Ferrari Westfield 1999 2A Q1 0:49.0512 0:03.4950 9 38 Richard Miller Richard Miller Nissan Skyline 2568T 5D Q1 0:49.3750 0:03.8188 10 58 Rod Dalgleish Rod Dalgleish Subaru GC8 2500T 1D Q1 0:49.3802 0:03.8240 11 88 Iain Chambers Iain Chambers AMB Clubman 1800 2B Q1 0:49.5734 0:04.0172 12 83 Paul Weir Paul Weir Subaru Impreza 2500T 1D Q1 0:50.1767 0:04.6205 13 28 Geoff Weir Geoff Weir Subaru Impreza 2500T 1D Q1 0:50.1891 0:04.6329

Just buy a 7. Cheap as you like or as expensive as you want it to be. Plus they are very quick on the right hands. Not Radical quick but it the track has corners they will more often than not beat a Skyline. Their aero is a bit like a brick wall, however.

Project Mu