djr81

The GT-R calliper for the 33 is 30mm thick. That for the R32 is 32mm thick.

I had always believed the Rays/Volk rims allowed for plenty of room for brake clearance. However looking at a photo (Kindly supplied by Ant) the rim appears to be smaller in internal diameter than, say a Blitz rim (first of the photos) due to the location of the step in the rim being on the inside on the Rays rim (Hope that makes some sort of sense - the Rays is the third photo, an 18" in this case). Anyway, does anyone have a 17" CE28 or RE30 that they can measure the inside diameter of? It should be thereabouts of 350mm.

Not that it was asked, but at full throttle there is no compelling reason for a turbo/supercharged motor to be any less efficient that its naturally aspirated counterpart. What is being discussed is not absolute power output, but specific fuel consumption, ie how much fuel you need to produce 1kW of power. With regard to part throttle a turbo motor will always be less fuel efficient than an atmo motor because its effective compression ratio is much less. As a rule the higher your compression ratio the better fuel economy you get. What I was saying is that if your supercharger consumes say 20hp on full throttle the engine needs produce that 20hp to drive the thing. The power (20hp) would otherwise show up in rwhp. Put another way you waste 20hp worth of petrol just making the motor run. With regard to the turbocharger being driven by exhaust gas it is not a free kick. There are pumping losses from the motor that result from the need to drive the turbine on the turbo. It can be likened to having a very restrictive exhaust. Nonetheless these are less than their equivalent for a belt driven compressor.

There are a couple of things to consider. 1: The prospect (or reality) of SEVS R35 imports will to an extent put some price pressure on Nissan. Which will hopefully stop them from asking the kinds of stupid money they did for the R32's. 2: Once a reasonable number of R35's are built in Japan the premium they are asking on places such as Yahoo will vanish & the pricing will become much more reasonable. Ultimately an '07 R35 will become the latter day equivalent of an '89 R32 - ie something for the keyboard warriors (In all their ignorance) to sneer at.

1. Because the only way you make horsepower is to burn petrol. 2. Because most tuners run motors on AFR's much richer than stoichiometric on WOT to keep the EGT under control.

A turbo simply because it is powered by what would otherwise be waste heat (exhaust gas). A supercharger needs to be powered by the engine making sufficient hp to drive it.

Well for whose benefit would you put springs (or coilovers) in your car that make it grip, handle and ride substantially worse? Not to mention all the other attendent problems that come along with such a dumb set up. Clearly not your own, so all that is left to do is assume you are doing it to impress your mates. The point you are clearly struggling to understand is that an excessively high spring rate (12kg/mm & 10 are too high) reduces the grip available to the car. It does not necessarily mean the thing will be better at drifting either. In fact quite the opposite - it will most probably be worse. Certainly it will be unpredictable when the car gets anywhere near some bumps. The ride quality turning to sh!t is just another downside to having excessively stiff suspension in the car.

A high spring rate does not necessarilly confer good handling on a car. In fact chucking hard springs at a car it is one of the easiest ways to make it an ill handling heap of rubbish. As a rule the higher the spring rate the less forgiving the set up will be for any compromises you have to build into the set up. As all road car based suspensions are necessarilly compromised the chances are you will make it appreciably worse than a stock car. Particularly if your first priority is impressing your mates but making it low/hard. Too many people believe that simply because a car doesn't/can't move about on its suspension it must handle well. They are wrong. Old adage: What is good for ride quality, done correctly, is also good for roadholding.

Please don't take this as a criticism, but that is so wrong as to be laughable. If you need teeth jarringly hard suspension to prove to your mates how tough you are - well that simply shows how ignorant they must be. The point of upgrading the suspension on a car is to make it ride/handle/grip better. Unfortunately to a large extent you can only have two of those three options. With regard to the Silvia shown inthe photo a few things a obvious: 1. The car looks to have insufficient roll stiffness. 2. It looks to be falling over its rear suspension. Which means: 3. You need to address the rear springs & sway bar stiffness first, but only if you are happy with the front spring rate.

Just by the RDA rotors - they are significantly cheaper than the DBA ones & about the same quality (Not very good). There is a group buy on SAU so have a search for that & save yourself some money. As for pads if you are predominantly using the thing on the road stay away from pads like the CC-X. Get something that works from cold. Otherwise you could end up in a nasty accident - ie running into someone because the brakes are still cold & you can't stop.....

For my ten cents worth - you are running mismatched front to rear spring rates. For my Gt-R I have 5kg front 4kg rear with a 22dia front & 24 dia rear sway bars. You are much stiffer on the front & softer on the rear both in spring & in sway bars- hence the car will pick up its inside front tyre. So you need to bring the spring rates closer together & then fatten the rear sway bar. Also (again spring rate dependent) the front bar is pretty fat relative to most offerings although at 7kg/mm it is much more liveable than if the car was (for example) running a 5kg/mm spring. Whether you do this by just adjusting one end of the car or not depends on how high you like your rates.

You won't. Which is why you use a competent importer. Assuming it is going to a local workshop your best bet is to find out when it is due & then drop by the place when it is delivered to the shop. This is what most people do.

What do you do? Or want to do?

Well if that is the best they can do..... No they don't go around with the rim. Merely up & down & backward & forward & left and right. As for the aerodynamic assistance being 'unexpected' - unexpected in the sense that it is the sole reason they are fitted. Which makes it pretty unexpected, albeit in a Pickwickian sense. The down side is a wheel to wheel clash is pretty much the most common contact between cars - making it likely that the things will be ripped off. I'm sure a carbon fibre saucer flying into the stands a warp factor nine wouldn't do anyone any harm whatsoever.

The bit I could never understand is this: How are they not moveable aerodynamic devices? I mean the counterweights Renault put into their mass damper system (which went inside the monocoque) were "moveable aerodynamic devices" according to the FIA. So why are these ugly, dangerous POS allowed? Other than the fact that Ferrari introduced them, obviously.

Yeah. Just get in touch with a few of the employment agencies. Ring them to get a contact & then send them a cv. Oh and its spelt Fremantle.

Does the tool, err, person concerned have a name? Anyway rogers should be nicely cashed up after selling his dealership.

A few things: If you want a smaller battery get yourself a drycell. I have a Deka Powersport 365CCA & it spins the motor up nicely as well as being much smaller than the usual lead acid job. Not cheap, but worth checking out. With regards to Cams I understand it is only log booked cars that HAVE to comply with the catch can sizing. I have not seen a car knocked back at a hill climb or similar for having a weiner catch can. Pat attention to how you will drain the catch can of oil. If it isn't fabbed right you will just spill stuff everywhere & probably burn yourself into the bargain. Pay some attention to how you will vent the oily air coming out of the catch can. Last thing you need is an engine bay full of oil stinking half burnt oil.

According to yesterdays Auto Fiction teams with technical alliances will no longer be grouped for testing purposes... What the hell prompted that? Team Walkinshaw needs to have more than 6 entries? Or have they just given up & resigned themselves to the fact that the series is organised for the sole benefit of HRT. I cannot believe that the likes of Larry Perkins, Dick Johnson or even Garry Rogers would have gone along with that. Sorry guys but you now need to enter 6 cars to have any hope in hell of being competitive. Actually scratch that comment about Rogers - he needs to pay for his engines somehow.

It is extremely unlikely that the FPR is the problem. If you suspect a fuel problem the FIRST thing to do is to replace the fuel filter. Second thing to do is to check the ECU to see if it has been modified or is stock. Third thing to do is pull the pump out & check that the strainer on it is clean. Then take it & get it run up on a dyno. Check the AFR's etc.

There is an easy answer to this. Don't try & tune the car with an FPR. Do it properly.

Yeah I was thinking that, in the absence of serious bling options, the <$300 RDA blandness looks to be a winner. Local mu secret lists them at $710 a pair plus postage, Nengun at about $630 delivered (Not listed, but similar sizes are about that - also I'm in WA so its probably cheaper for those of you living on the wrong side of the country) Angus, out of interest how is the balance with the F50's up front & what master cylinder + front rotor you running? Sorry if I have asked before, but my memory is not what it used to be.

All good info, thanks Baron. As an aside I was less than blown away by the weight savings from the front hatted rotors relative to the DBA/RDA rubbish I used before hand. I was only 3kgs total. But then again the Project Mu stuff had slightly more substantial cooling vanes than the others which only really have pillars. I wouldn't reckon the rears would be as large a difference.

Probably, but to be fair I did try pretty hard to buy your F40's!

R32 Rear. Mu SCR Pro (or someones equivalent ie hatted rotor. I think Biot do them. Not sure about Endless). To suit Brembos. Which I take to be the same as the 33's setup anyway. http://www.nengun.com/project-mu/scr-pro I will be ditching the Sumitomo gheyness for something more substantial. Although for now I have to run them. Here are the front SCR Pro rotors I bought a little while ago. Will give them a proper try mid next month.