djr81

Dunno, maybe ask Vern Schuppen.

For me, well I haven't made up my mind as to whether I can be bothered following F1 this year or not. Anyone want to make an offer on 30 years worth of Autocourse annuals?

As stated throughout the thread: You cannot buy rear, hatted rotors from DBA to suit an R32/33 GT-R. Even if you could you may not want to. Even if you did want to why would you pay full price from Repco?

Baron? Help. Please. Nengun couldn't bother their arses to answer my question about hatted rear rotors for 32/33/34s.

A Watts linkage ensures the axles moves in a vertical plane - unlike a Panhard rod. Which is why they are inherently superior.

Well it doesn't work particularly well, but it has been made to work better than what could reasonably be expected. If you look at the different techniques used for supporting the pinion/crown wheel, the barrel gears in the axle to allow -ve camber, the Watts linkages (some of which will live with a side impact from a wall/other competitor) the different ways the axles & the housings themselves are manufactured.... The is a lot of very good engineering that goes into them.

The V8's have a Watts linkage, but it could more correctly be referred to as a "reverse" linkage. Rather than the centre pivot being attached to the back of the diff & the outside ones to the chassis, the V8's locate the centre link on the chassis & the two outside ones to the axle. This then allows them, via a single bolt, to adjust the height at which the centre linkage acts on the chassis. This is what you always hear Crompton etc banging on about with roll centre adjustments. The height of this link is the height of the rear roll centre. As an aside given the supposedly antiquated nature of the set up there is actually a good deal of technology & engineering involved in the rear axle set ups for these cars. But lets not let that get in the way of a good story.

Yeah that the problem with nominating a brand of tyre or a hardness or tyre or whatever. People who want to enter or be competitive probably have to go and spend yet more money on tyres.

So do the cool people in their R31s take the embroided cushions off their parcel shelves before they hit the track? Or just leave them as if they are driving to the lawn bowls club. On a more relevant issue, control tyres as a rule suck almost as much as not having one. Unfortunately they will always benefit one car (say a light weight one) more than another.

Actually the toyo RA1's are quite reasonable on the road. Nothing like as obnoxious as the large tread block designs. Not sure how they hold up on a heavy car for circuit work, however.

It may be worth your while getting a second set of rims - larger ones at 9" width. Reason being that GT-R's are heavy and punish their tyres. So the extra inch or so rubber helps, albeit at a price. 255/40/17 are a good size. In any case check the load rating. As for your second question. Yes they are driveable in the wet. But to be honest they are a noisy, harsh and offensive tyre that I wouldn't recommend running around on every day.

Simple. Such a thing doesn't exist.

I used it as an example because it just won the All Wheel Drive (road car) class in the WA Speed Event Series. My point was that if you have a range of options the chances of any one car fitting them will be better. It was just a list off the top of my head to illustrate the point of letting people pick from a list. It is fairly evident that what people regard as reasonable varies widely. This is what makes things difficult. You don't see Aircon as being a problem. My thing has integrated climate control. So it is a much bigger problem for me. Your Toyota may have a 20V EFI engine conversion & go hard. Someone elses S13 may have an RB25. (there is one over here in WA - engineer approved). There is a fair degree of difference. So what is reasonable to the S13 fans may not be to the Haichi Roku brigade. And that is before people start worrying about the bloody rotisseries....12a, 13b etc etc etc. Doesn't make either you or me right, just makes it hard for the poor bloke writing the rules to please everyone.

Its motorsport. There is no such thing as a reasonable person. Any reasonable person would not spend shedloads on money on such a pointless persuit.

Good call although it is difficult to establish what the weight of a car should be. Wet or dry. The other thing is to get a good gain you need to do some fairly substantial surgery. 5% of a GT-R is about 75kg which starts running you into the list in your second paragraph.

Actually it is legal because it is only a restricted (rally car basically) licence. Just one of the multitudes of loop holes if you are going to try & enforce road regulations or versions of the same. I reckon that a list of mods be put up then competitors can pick say 3 (for want of any other number) of them.eg Set 1. Brake upgrade to A/M kit or ABS deletion. A/M suspension. Gutted interior. Gutted HVAC. Panel/spoiler mods. Upgraded LSD's/locked diffs. Gearbox upgrades/changes. Plastic windows. etc etc Set 2 (stuff that puts you into outright no matter what) Fully locked diff. No mufflers etc. Engine change eg V8 in a Skyline. Free Roll cage (bolt in) Seat Harness/seatbelt Engine mods to factory engine (Obviously changing to another type would put in in outright) This would allow people to bring & run most things in road car class but put the serious people into outright.

This, then is a street car? http://www.my105.com.au/classified.asp?id=7814

Well if you are satisfied you have removed the pads & the fluid as a source of the problem the next step is the rubber hoses next to the callipers, the master cylinder & then the callipers themselves. In that order. But I would still make doubly sure it isn't fluid related.

Don't get me started on group B for gods sake. Check this if you want one. http://www.anamera.com/en/find/list/index.html?no_cache=1 Do a search for Fords. there are a couple there for US $225,000. Cheap so stop sniffling an buy one.

Yes. For the vehicle to be complied on importation it needs to match the information sent in by the workshop in their compliance package. Invariably this means stock exhaust/intercooler/intakes etc. Ofcourse you can modify and have engineered all sorts of stuff subsequent to that.

Well here is hoping it will be a little less ignominious than the last time they tried to run a GT-R in a production car race at Bathurst.

It is pretty straight forward. Mods that may affect ADR compliance need to be removed. Irrelevent stuff can be left alone.

Well if you can afford $5k you can afford a Porker I guess. Those times are damn quick. Has anyone any links to some photos? I just want to pretend that was me there in my GT-R. However briefly. Please don't judge me.

Cmon fellas, someone in this world must have a V-Spec and a camera.

Some people remove the ABS others not. It is heavy, slow cycling & to be honest not the greatest unit ever built. But it is better than nothing. If after heating up the brakes go away either your pad compound is not up to snuff or other components (less likely) are suffering (eg rubber brake lines).