djr81

I am after a photo of the brake master cylinder from a V-Spec R32 Gt-R. This is one from the povvo pack GT-R. I need to do a compare & contrast. Thanks in advance.

It is worth doing properly. http://www.longacreracing.com/catalog/catlist.asp?catid=8

Take it from me - don't mix drift cars with people who want to set a lap time. The drifters make too much of a mess of the circuit (the traps & generally just dragging sh!t onto the track) & will annoy the hell out of those trying to set a lap time. Keep them to another day.

Check the manual. It is probably the level switch in the reservoir - assuming you have enough in there to start with. 22.PDF

Use the search engine to find the list of ATTESSA error codes. When the dashlight comes on the computer under the rear parcel shelf will be blinking. Count the number of flashes & this will relate to the problem with the AWD system. Easy.

Thanks for the stupid reference - I never said I was no rocket surgeon. Why does it have to be just JDM cars? I mean if Barry Bogan wants to have a go in his HSV then good on him I say.

For a model of how to run a sprint event (ok, time attack for the 16 year olds...) have a look at the regulations on the cover page (down a bit) here: http://www.speedeventseries.com/ Also if you look at the photos & the class structure (in the points score) you will see just how many classes there are. From what I can tell talking to people who do turn up to watch it is for one of three reasons: 1. They know someone driving. 2. They are interested in a particular car eg they have an Evo & want to see how they are modded for circuit work. 3. They come to see the outright cars. No one really turns up to see the struggle street competitors. Anyway if you want to emulate the Japanese time attack thing, broadly I would expect two basic classes (with a number of sub classes): 1. Outright. Go nuts, strip the car, fill it full of roll cage, big hp motor anything you can think of basically, but run it on R compounds. This would be aimed at workshop entries or the very serious privateer. 2. Street car. Basically aimed at the sort of cars seen on this forum. A road car (licensed) with full interior, maybe a half cage but basically something you can drive to work come the Monday morning. Again tyres would be R compounds or if you wanted road tyres - but I wouldn't force people to run roadies because alot of these cars would be already competing on R compounds in sprints/hill climbs etc anyway. Anything safety related eg better seats, cages, harnesses should be encouraged & mechanisms found to help encourage them.

Ok I hear what you are saying, but the Wilkes thing is a fairly singular example. The few times I tried road tyres in my R they just chunked. So maybe it is a weight thing. As for tyre regs over here what it has meant is that you run RE55's, Toyos or other R compounds. Yes you need to fork out for them. But to be honest as I said if you are in any way serious about winning anything you are going to have to. I burn more money in fuel/fees/brakes/broken bits than I do in tyres. So I don't think people should over emphasise their importance. If they have to porper "road" tyres (not sure how you define that) then people will end up settling on something like a Federal or a Falken. So it will have much the same outcome. As for safety - well I reckon this will be an increasing problem. 600hp is easy to get nowadays. Used to be damn near impossible. I mean, crap my thing will do over 200km/h at Wanneroo which starts to get me all puckery if I stop & think about it. Hill climbs are getting harder & harder to get approved & they tend to end up with more bloody chicanes, year on year.

You have hit upon an inherent problem. One of differentiating safety improvements (Which you want to encourage) from go fast improvements (which you want to delineate to help set up the class structure) Over here in WA the sprint series is divided into outright & then a bundle of classes (eg 4WD, under 2000cc etc etc) The problem being that some people (eg me) turn up with a road car on R compounds. With a full interior, stereo, climate control aircon. A road car. Others turn up in a "road car" (well its got plates) on the back of a trailer with no interior, a full road cage, no ventilation etc etc. So maybe you need an outright class & a road class. But the safety aspect is a big problem. Personally I wouldn't worry too much about big hp cars with no grip. They just go slow anyway. As for street tyres - well IMHO if people don't want to shell out for a half decent set of boots then they probably aren't interested in giving an event/series their full attention. Road tyres on a race track don't live long so it is a false economy you don't need to encourage. If it is DOT approved it is a road tyre. End of story.

If you are from Sweden you could try Anders Oloffson? The problem with finding horsepower figures from the group A era is that, to put it bluntly, all the published figures on the GT-R's are bullshit. They were quoted low so as to not scare people. If you can find the 1990 edition of the Australian Motor racing Yearbook there is a good article on Gibson's first up efforts. Most of what has been published in Australia was about the Gibson Motorsport GT-R's. You will find torrents more information on them than on any of the Japanese stuff. In any case they were better engineered & better built.

Whilst I agree with you sentiments according to the current issue of Auto Fiction 888 arced up big time about the flag waved at Lowndes on Saturday. As in tried to get the IPO chucked out of a job. Anyway, why has Ross Stone not called yet?

I have asked Nengun to find out for me. Hopefully they will have a positive answer some time soon. If anyone wants some dead DBA rotors well here are some I prepared earlier. Amongst this pile of sh!t are a couple of old stock Nissan items. They have a heap more fins on them than the DBA's do.

Try Roy. He has some F50's for sale.

Me neither but Perkins Engineering needs a half way talented driver. Now I am not saying that Price or Perkins won't get there, but... If you look at who was last in the points standings (for teams) you get BOC. They are getting two new Walkinshaw built cars & McConkers next year. So things are looking up for them. Next line line is the Perkins team. Second last. Beaten by WPS, PWR etc etc. So clearly they need someone or something new. I am just not sure of the four HRT/HSV drivers Toddler deserved that fate. Anyway who is getting the second HSVDT seat. Surely not Dumbrell?????

Yes they do. For all of them. Which is why I asked the question. I don't want to have to be locked into the Endless pad range because of the calliper.

Yes but according to the nice people from Ferodo the friction coefficient is stable across a large temperature range. That is one of the reasons why I like them.

The ones in the photo are just some random stuff from Yahoo auctions - they appear to be a 6 pot calliper on a 324 rotor. Not what I was after, but they would be a good thing none the less....so don't let me stop you.

Well I have heard good things, but.....I have two issues (OK, I have more issues htan the Readers Digest, but I digress). 1. The quoted friction coefficients are low - in the 0.35 - 0.4 range. Compared with the 0.5 I have on the DS2500's it looks horrible & low. 2. I need the pads to be useable on the road (ie work from cold & not squeel much) but also not run out of friction coefficient on the track when they get hot. I sent an enquiry to Centrax, but they ignored it. Guess I will have to ring them aswell.

Yes they are good value for money. But my principal concern is getting some good pads to go with them. I finally found some Brembo rears & there was a set of Endless pads in them. They look for all the world to be nasty old school metallic type pads. the 6 pot calliper looks to have a 152mm long pad. But that is just scaling the photo, so I don't know.

So its different from a normal Friday/Saturday night how? Oh, sun burn. Right you are.

Some questions about the Endless brake callipers: 1. Is any one out there running them - if so do you have any comments? 2. Are any of the Endless range of brake pads any good? More particularly I would like to ask for their "inch up" 343x32 rotor + 6 pot calliper does anyone know: 1. What pad size is it? 2. Can you get other than Endless pads - particularly the Ferodo DS2500 or equivalent? 3. How much piston area do the callipers have? It is too bloody hard finding information on callipers most days.

I would be disgusted but then again I am in no way surprised. http://www.itv-f1.com/News_Article.aspx?PO_ID=41405

You are dead right. It had more than a bit. But then again the car will understeer when I try & be a hero and attempt to carry too much speed across the apex - so it was as much my fault as the car. It needs a new rear diff to stop the inside rear from bagging up, particularly on the left/right transition going up & over the hill. Mid 66's (my best effort) & 65's are a different world, but worth aspiring to none the less.

If you are ever sufficiently bored check out the history of the John Wyer's Mirage cars at Le Mans. They used to run DFV's in the 24 hour race & the vibrations just tore everything apart. I would hate to think what happens in a road car.

Maybe, but my argument stands.