djr81

This subject has been pretty much flogged to death, but nonetheless I would like to add my 10 cents worth. I have driven my car (R32 R) on the track both with & without HICAS. The reason people (atleast me) remove it is that generating a good lap time requires you to keep the car on its limit of adhesion thoughout the four stages of the corner, ie braking, turn in, mid corner & exit. The HICAS system is (on an R32) reactive, slow & not particularly helpfull. Take as an example the turn in phase of the corner. In a Gt-R you will be lightly trail braking to help the nose turn in. At this point the HICAS decides you need some opposite phase rear wheel input. It is difficult to diferentiate between the back end sliding (ie you are on your way to a spin) & the HICAS doing its thing. Secondly if you are trail braking you will be carrying more speed at this point than you would be otherwise. HICAS removes the need for so much retardation hence slows you down at a point where it is easiest to make time on your opposition. So in summary the HICAS system interferes with the feel of the car & by its action makes it slower. It is also heavy. So why would you want to keep it?

That low camera angle through the swimming pool area was gold. You could see the things moving about, get a sense of the speed & even how the suspension was nice & compliant in bump & less so in rebound. Just great. And people say F1 is boring.....

Rather than start an argument I would rather pose a question. First things first what you have said is partly correct. A higher viscosity fluid will create a larger pressure difference when measured from one end of the pipe it is being pumped in to the other. This means a higher output pressure at the pump is required to achieve the same flow rate. BUT There is more than one type of pump. For a centrifugal pump (like your water pump) the output pressure has a huge effect on the flow rate of the pump. For a positive displacement pump it has ABSOLUTELY no effect. So what type of pump is your oil pump?

Hey, my opinion is worthless too! Er, hangon... To be honest I have never had any real issue with team orders. I just hate the way team prinicipals have to bullshit their way through the regulations to do something they should be allowed to do anyway. If Ron Dennis reckons Alonso is the man to win & his rookie number 2 should back him up then fair enough. It is his team after all. This only came about because of the cack handed way Ferrari orchestrated a finish that they had no rneed to mess about with all those years ago. McLaren had to look after the engines for Canada after all is said & done. Flogging the guts out of them at the possible expense of the next race would have been stupid. They have always been even handed about the drivers - remember Coulthard & Hakkinen at Spa ages ago. Probably Hamilton wouldn't have got Alonso, but by god I would have liked to have seen him try. At one stage there he had the thing all sideways under brakes out of the tunnel. It looked brilliant & I have no earthly idea how he recovered it. It is great to see an F1 car loose at the back end. Lewis seems to love oversteer. Spanish GP was the same. As for having an edge all weekend - I still think that the front row would have been different had #2 not carried all that fuel. There was point oh bugger all of a second in it.

As has been said before. An XR6T, whilst no GT-R, will give you bundles of turbo joy without you being hassled by the police. The really important point is to get a GOOD tune. The Ford ECU is several orders of magnitude more complex & better than anything connected to an RB26. A bad tune will probably leave you with a rod through the side of the block from detonation. Or just less power as the ECU goes into a protection mode.

Good call Baron. I tend to think that people over here, by & large, do the same. Just that the organisers of just about everything are reduced to such a state of paranoia that the subsequent regulations pretty much take the fun out of what otherwise would be a relaxing day.

According to the FIA's findings: "McLaren had fuelled Hamilton for five more laps than Alonso. This allowed Hamilton the option of a one-stop strategy should the safety car have come out during his first stint." The statement continued: "With no safety car during Alonso's first stint, there was a small but finite risk that it would come out during the five laps before Hamilton had to refuel. This would have put him behind the field and at a significant disadvantage to any car on a full (as opposed to optional) one-stop strategy. The latter cars would be expected to refuel around lap 40 - ie after the safety car had pitted if it came out during Hamilton's extra laps. No surprise but I would think Lewis Hamilton would be having some very terse conversations with Ron Dennis presently ref: why he didn't let him run his fuel out & therefore have a chance to get past Alonso. Small but finite chance of a safety car. What a load of bullsh!t. Worthy of Ferrari that pissweak excuse. Do you think he would have been called if Kimi was leading? Why carry the fuel through qualifying if you can't use it in the race. Fernando only just squeeked in on pole. Lewis would have spanked him with 10 - 20kg kess fuel.

Great post Cubes. Looks like I was getting my LSD types atleast part way confused. Dho. The first photo is very definately a more gentle ramp angle than the Nismo (looks like 45 degrees & about 30 degrees with both sides being the same angle on the diffs, ie 45 & 45 and 30 & 30.) Remember drive is going vertically as the photos are shown. Can you change the ramp angles on the Nismo diff in the same manner as you can do it with the Cusco ones? Obviously the stocker is not changeable - you can only stuff around with the tightness of the plates. You would expect the Nismo diff to run a more aggressive clutch pack.

I understand that tightening the clutch packs increases the LSD action with no torque input. So when you input some torque not so much is needed to get to the same mount of lock up as before when the thing wasn;t as tight. From what I understand the reason you may want an aggressive ramp angle is basically to get the diff locked up as you feed throttle in on corner exit ie so it is ready & the car is settled before you get to 100% throttle. It is very much harder to stop a wheel spinning once it is started than to prevent it starting. For general street use you probably don't want an aggressive diff - atleast I don't.

You are entirely correct in your description of the 1/1.5/2 way. The pre-load is not related to the ramp angle. The ramp angles define the severity of the operation in both directions when torque is applied. A 30 degree ramp is harsh & a 90 degree ramp is completely ineffective (ie it is used on the over run side of the 1 way). But you can get different ramp angles & the diff is still a 2 way or a 1.5 way or a 1 way (except on the 90 degree side, obviously). Maybe if someone had a photo of the pinion gear carrier & the pressure rings of an R200 it would help.

There is a group buy for rotors.

Well most standard LSD's (Maybe we will call them clutch type because that is the best description) will allow some wheelspin on the inside (unloaded) wheel. Mine does. You can increase the clamping force to prevent this but it becomes a pain in the arse when you just want to go down the shops. A mechanical (as in Cusco, Nismo etc) LSD pllies clamping force to the friction plates of the diff when differential wheelspeed is experienced & torque is being applied - on both acceleration & decelleration in the case of a 2 way & on acceleration only in the case of a 1 way. BUT is you have hiked the inside tyre the mechanical element of the LSD is good for SFA because the diff is then reliant only only the pre existing clamping force ie it acts like a normal clutch type LSD. Here is a bit of thing on the ramp angles of the diffs ie the bits that define if it is a 2 way or a 1 way or whatever. http://icpcitation.com/variloc_theory.htm

The point is that a proper 1 way, 1.5 way or 2 way has different components inside it which actively increase the clamping load on the friction plates when you get a differential wheel speed. The standard mechanical LSD in a Skyline does not have these components. The pre set clamp load on the plates is the only way of changing the limited slip qualities.

The problem is that all the hektic & indeed fully sik dorifto heroes only understand diffs in the one way/two way description. This has become all pervasive & clouded peoples understandings. The mechanical LSD's typically used in road cars share the same style of friction plates as BOTH the 1 & 2 way diffs. So you can't say they are either. The difference between the one & two way diffs is simply the angles of activation in the guts of the diff. It is these cone plates that impose load on the friction plates & make the diff lock up. A one way doesn't have the ramp angle (or atleast has a much larger angle) on the "over run" side of operation and therefore wont impose any load on the friction plates. It would be much easier if people used the ramp angles as descriptors as they actually mean something. See here for the Cusco descriptor which is better than my cack handed effort. http://www.cusco.co.jp/english/e_lsd.html

Front diff: Model number: F160 Ratio 4.111:1 No pinions: 2 Teeth pinion & spool: 9 & 37 It has no LSD capacity. Rear Model F200 Ratio 4.111:1 No pinions: 4 Teeth pinion & spool: 9 & 37 It is a mechanical LSD. If anyone tells you it is a one way or a two way just slap them & walk away. Front & rear diff oils are different - the rear needing LSD fluid, again obviously. Here is a drawing of the LSD internals.

The particular source of steel is not important. The diameter(s) of the sway bar & the length of the lever arms are the important things. So check the outside diameters & the inside diameters also if the bars are hollow.

For a thread with only 5 posts there sure is alot of confusion going on. If you want a price on the swaybar you could always ring Whiteline & ask them. Or your local Repco or similar sttore as they sell them. If you want to help your car drift putting a stiffer sway bar on the fron will help it - undertsteer. If it is an R32 GTS-T the cheapest thing to do is get a rear sway bar off a GT-R. If you must have the Whiteline gear get the adjstable bars.

Good work.

Sorry Ivan, but I don't know anyone in fleet street. By the way, have you got a photo of the two Ferraris parked up on the circuit? I want to keep that particular image.

There is (allegedly) a bit more too it than that. Apparently Hamilton had three more laps of fuel up his sleeve when McLaren dragged him in for his first pit stop. Be interesting to see if the McLaren works anywhere near as well in low downforce configuration. Nice work by Alex Wurz, too, by wtf happened to Rosberg?

There are three things you need to look at on the chart - two are important the other less so. The FIRST IMPORTANT thing to be looking at is the amount of air (in lbs/min) the turbo will flow. It is this number that determines how much power your car will put out. There is a very strong relationship (largely independent of A/F ratios) between the air flow & the engine output. I am not going to quote a number (You can search & find it elsewhere). The second important thing is the compressor efficiency. This is a measure of how much heat (ie wasted energy) the compressor puts into the air & therefore theat the I/C needs to remove. The good news is that high 70's are good number & that the islands are pretty flat - typical of a Garret turbo. The less important number is the pressure ratio of the compressor. As the name suggests this is the ratio of the outlet pressure (ie heading toward to I/C) compared to the inlet pressure (ie just after the AFM's) This turbo can flow a ratio of 3. This is not the same as 2 bar boost (+1 atmosphere) and you will see much less at the MAP sensor. Remember boost is only a measure of the failure of your induction system to allow air to the engine without restriction. It is nothing to brag about.

Road registered - give over. It is this. Image number 50. http://www.circlework.com.au/cgi-bin/pro/e...70mo-autumn.jpg Driven by Evan MacRae & wrongly listed as an R31 on Natsoft. It is entered in the street car class. Please note - for the Eastern Staters "Street Car Class" doesn't mean you can drive any of the entries on the street. Although I have a question - why was it so much quicker in the handicap race than in the other three races?

Well you will find the group buy stuff noticeably harder at the front than the rear. This will help your traction. Just wind in as much -ve camber at the front as you can.

For those Queenslanders who may be interested the Stone Brothers are having a 10th birthday bash at their workshop. Date is Friday the 1st June between 4 & 8pm. Drivers will be there stoking the bbq, apparently.

Customary setting is 355 front 345 rear. You can change them to be different if you really want, but it works best at those heights. Just make sure the bump stops are trimmed correctly.