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Everything posted by djr81
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There are only two ways to deal properly with them: 1: Don't watch it. If the show comes up in conversation tell anyone who is prepared to listen not to watch it. Clearly the stories & the "journalism" on the show are from the bottom draw. In fact how the have the gall to call it current afairs is beyond me. None the less while ever they can get ratings that are in any way acceptable they will continue to broadcast such rubbish. So stop watching. This will both lower their ratings & also stop everyone from getting upset... 2: If you want to complain, you have to do it first to Channel 7. Effectively to complain to the ACMA (Australian Communications & Media Authority) you need to give the broadcaster (channel 7) the opportunity to resolve your grievance. The link is here. http://www.acma.gov.au/WEB/STANDARD//pc=PC_90137 You can also try the Chaser & Media Watch. But this happens all the time & the tv stations have a hide as thick as a rhino's.
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I thought the same thing. BMW reckon the tyres were shite, but even so that ain't a real impressive time.
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Fitting 34 Brembos To A 32 Gtr
djr81 replied to Beer Baron's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
The kit as I understood it was for a non hatted rotor with a CP5200 caliper. Don't remember how much other fruit came with it - ie pads and or braided lines. I do know of a cheaper option than that which is basically the cheap arsed AP caliper that HSV etc use on a DBA rotor. I am not sure that constitutes an upgrade however.... -
Fitting 34 Brembos To A 32 Gtr
djr81 replied to Beer Baron's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
To be fair, Baron, you are comparing new with used. Also much of what AP & others offer retains the Sumitomo rears & the standard master cylinder. So you don't HAVE to spent all that money. You can get a new front AP kit with 330ish rotor for less than $3k. Nonetheless if you can get the job done for that kind of money with 4 new calipers that is pretty good going. -
Rotational inertia (Properly called the second moment of area - I) is measured in mm^4. As in Torque = I * alpha where alpha is angular acceleration measured in radians per second squared. This is the rotational equivalent of Newtons famous Force = mass * acceleration. The only reference I have ever seen to the direct effect on steering was in reference to the Indy cars where some drivers noticed a change in steering effort due to a change in gyroscopic effect when they changed the material the rotor was made out of. This was at rather ridiculous speeds, however. What a heavier rotor/caliper does do is add to the unsprung weight of the car which affects the ability of the suspension to keep the tyre on the road. This is something to be avoided if possible.
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Well they are noisy as all hell at about 80-90km/h & when they are pressured correctly the ride is pretty terrible.
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The 88 McLaren was the MP4/4. Actually all of Ron Dennis' McLaren are part of what he called project 4 - needless to say the first three didn't work nearly so well. The car itself was designed to a fair degree by Gordon Murray & a number of others who's names don't immediately come to mind. I think John Barnard had either gone or was in the process of going to Ferrari. Anyway with two hacks by the names of Senna & Prost the thing won 15 of 16 races that year. For my money, however the prettiest McLaren of all (M6A aside) was the MP4/13 which in pre-season testing wore the traditional McLaren orange along with the West sponsorship logos.
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I cannot be 100% certain from the photos, so I cannot be 100% sure about this but: It is VERY POOR practice to use bolts to connect to blind, tapped threads. What should be done is that a stud bolts (Think threaded rod) be used & it be loctited in place. Only then should the nut be torqued up to the outside of the stud. What typically happens is that if you try to use a bolt you either don't get enough tension on the one or other of the bracket or the hub. The result? The things rattles loose.... The problem is that you either don't get to use the full depth of the tapped hole or you don't get sufficient clamping force on the caliper.
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Easiest way is to check the CAMS website. www.cams.com.au Second esiest way is to make enquiries at your nearest CAMS affiliated track. Bail up one of the officials & they will surely set you in the right direction. Lastly, have you thought about buying an already imported car from a fellow competitor? Most competitors have an eye to their next car & pretty much everything is for sale all the time. So if you find something you like, ask. You may be well surprised by the answer......
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I like how everyone gets hung up on a particular model and suddenly there is a world full of experts on price. What you need to understand is that you would have got a fairly similar reaction if you had have nominated what colour you wanted your car to come in..... From buying too many cars (GT-R's among them) I would offer the following. Buy a good car not a specification. What does that mean? Well it is far less important to get a black, V-Spec 11 1994 & a half or whatever than it is to get a good car. Like Baron said a good R32 is netter than a poor 33 & vice versa. The cachet of a V-spec badge is meaningless if the car is tired. All GT-R's are inherently fine cars. Buy a good car, not a price. What does that mean? It is less important to spend, say $25k or $30k than it is to get a good car. If the thing costs a couple of thousands of dollars more then pay the money. At the end of the day the car is more important than the price. Buy a good car, not a list of modifications. What does that mean? With Skylines there is a slight tendency for everyone to want either a fully built car or, more commonly an untouched example. The best bet is to take them as they come, if you don't like some of the stuff on it, wait a while by which time you will probably have come round to liking it. Make sure you know what to look for. This means both knowing what to inspect for failure/wear to prevent you having to pay heaps to fix it & also what to expect will be tired/stuffed because it is a traight of the car.
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Yes he is sure. Or atleast I am on his behalf. Rear diameter is 297, front is 296.
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Changing Tyres - Who Does It Where
djr81 replied to evil_weevil's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
I am not advocating turning up to the track without a spare. Clearly if you stuff a rim/tyre you change it. If you stuff more than one, well mostly I find people at track days are willing to help out. Failing that there is always a tilt tray.... -
Changing Tyres - Who Does It Where
djr81 replied to evil_weevil's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Well if you want to do it get yourself some gear like a rattlle gun for home & maybe an electric version for the track. That & a proper jack. Otherwise it is just a time consuming pain in the arse & you will end up not bothering. Personally i think that unless you have to commute more than about 200km's each way it is just not worth the effort. It is 600kms round trip for me to get to Wanneroo & frankly I cant be bothered changing wheels. Remember the wear rates on the track will be massively more than those on the road. The only caveat is if you are running bulk front end -ve camber & toe out you can chew the front tyres on the roads. The other thing to worry about is tyre pressures. Get a gauge & keep track of them. -
My point was based around my experience of running in sprint events over here in WA. For the record. The suspension is aftermarket. The bushes are good, as is the transfer case. The engine is good. I try pretty hard, atleast to the limits of my (lack of) talent. My point was that the amount/number of mods & work in general to keep an R32 competitive with, for example a late model Evo is pretty extensive. Further to keep the car in touch with a range of other eg modded WRX's, Supras etc it has to be driven hard. Checking the tyre temps (by way of an example) on return to pit lane is illustrative when you can do the same on a Supra next to you. Lap times the same (within a few tenths) but my tyre temps (& brake temps) were much, much higher. None of the thread was an attack on anyone manhood. The reason I made the post is that whilst my lap times are as good as those for people driving GT-R's a couple/three years back, instead of getting outright trophies I get a line in the press release as also ran.... By the way - check the weight of an EVO they are over 1400kg's!
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Well when I started the discussion it was supposed to be about the sort of road registered car that you take to track days/hill climbs/sprints of whatever description. Not so much about scratch built mega dollar race cars. Even less about people who think GT-R's come with a halo & can nevah loose. Or brakes? My point was that the newer cars apper to do the same or better lap times with less punishment on the driver & car & also with fewer dollars spent on mods. But I guess that is pretty much inevitable. Otherwise we would all be driving XY falcons or something. Not sure about the 350Z's. I have only seen one of them out & about over this way. Wasn't that quick - mostly because it just doesn't have the horsepower. It is perhaps telling that the Mitsubishi dealers see fit to organise track days for the Evo boys, but that the Nissan dealers don't bother.
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I think Skaife is a bit busy trying to figure out how the hell he is going to find the money to pay back Tom Walkinshaw. I would hate to see the size of the pineapple, er bill TWR (or Walkinshaw Performance or whatever the post bankrupt organisation is called) sends out each month.
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Well 888 has sucked wang so far this year. I guess the Stone Brothers motors aren't all that good yet. SBR are struggling & JB's car is no rocket ship in a straight line either. It is odd than when you are at the circuit the only engines with a distinctly different note are the five produced by SBR. Even the Team BOC cars sound the same as everyone elses. Judging by DJR's new found competitiveness with the 888 underpinnings it is hard to point the finger at that. None of which excuses Lowndes from being hosed by his team mate. But given Frosty is spanking Richards it would appear the way to get people to perform is to pay them less than their team mate.
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Best check the history books. The only thing that stuffed him was getting sod all points for the endurance races. Kelly gapped him big time by driving into second when Garth finished badly at Sandown & DNF'd at Bathurst. Which served him right for changing teams.
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RKelly has about as much chance of winning the championship as I have. The only question that remains is how much daylight will there be between Garth Tander & second place.
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It was simply because Tander finished 8th (nowhere) that Kelly won the round. Had GT passed Radisich during the last lap before the premature end of the race he would have won the round. Where there is equal points the person infront at the end wins the day. Yet again Kelly did sod all to deserve anything on the weekend. He was demonstrably slower than Tander all weekend & it was only a botched pit stop that allowed him the win. On the other side of the ledger Morris, Perkins, Gary Rodgers & Brad Jones all went home with very broken cars. The entrants group bang on about cost control & then happily turn up to circuits knowing they are guaranteed to suffer significant damage. It is probably good that they are leaving Pukekohe before someone gets killed. Unfortunately they are replacing it with yet another stupid bloody street race. Guaranteed carnage to entertain the #@%^wits who "only watch it for the crashes", but a danger to everyone elses wallet & wellbeing.
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Comedian Eddie Griffin Smashes Ferrari Enzo
djr81 replied to Al-R33's topic in General Automotive Discussion
Well give him his due. It was an amazingly effective way of getting publicity. You couldn't buy that much coverage & all he did was damage/bin a Ferrari. -
Brake Pads Specificlly Dc2500s Vs Rb74s
djr81 replied to dangerous_daveo's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Why put in a caliper with larger pots if you are already having issues with a lack of rear bias? It will only make it worse. Check the pads aren't glazed & try removing some pad material fron the area closest to the hub ie increase the effective working diameter of the pad. -
You are on the money.