djr81

I am sure that took quite a bit of effort. It demonstrates that you are a very strange man. or, to put it another way Effort large conform to taking. Personage for not ideal unstrangeness.

How about some of these.... http://store.yahoo.co.jp/mudjayson/suspjpn-bils-nissan.html Specifically: http://store.yahoo.co.jp/mudjayson/bps-jpn4.html

Thats only because it does. Basically lateral acceleration increase with the square of velocity. basically acceleration = velocity squared dvided by corner radius. So if you are doing, say 160km/h (44.4 metres per second) through Suzuka 140R you get: Acceleration = 44.4 squared/140 Acceleration = 14.1metres per second squared Acceleration = 1.438 gees. Same sum for 161km/h gives 1.456 gees. Finding 1.27% more grip is a MASSIVE gain in a race car. Which is why you need to bust your arse to do even 1kmk/h quicker through a corner than the next bloke. By the way the reason you can tell people are spanking themselves when talking about silly cornering speed is as follows. Say we are doing 1 minute laps of a 1 mile long circuit. This means we are doing 60mph, obviously. If we do 61 mph the lap time reduces to 59 seconds. So if some nugget tells you of a heroic speed through a corner you may suggest, in the words of Dave Allen: "Stop it or you'll go blind."

For the sake of the discussion the right hander follows the only left hand corner worth the name on the circuit. The left hander (Formerly Shell, now C-Red or X-force or something) is taken in 3rd (in a GT-R on R compounds) and you then turn right over the brow of the hill & hope the thing doesn't understeer too hard into the (unsighted) saw tooth kerbing on the exit. So yes, you can punch out of there at somewhere near 160. Which is massively different from 180. Which in turn is massively different from a car on road tyres or a drift car because at this point the thing is still pulling as many lateral gees as it can when the throttle is full open. Maybe it is just me, but as I have never seen the drift people use the long track (which the corner is a part of) I fail to see what difference it makes. Remember you need almost 25% more grip to take a corner at 200km/h as opposed to 180km/h. Finding 25% more grip by means other than bolting on stickier tyres & massive amounts of downforce is next to impossible.

My 10 cents. The number of tracks in Australia with corners that anyone in something without wings & slicks can enter as 200km/h can be counted in the fingers of one hand. Which is handy because far too many people are clearly using the other to spank themselves.

Hmm, how about because they cost a large lump of money & don't do a great deal to help your motor. Things to think about: 1. The most convincing reason to run a single throttle body is to allow a MAP sensor to work in a more stable airflow environment, ie allow it to work better. 2. If you are running AFM's the half the reason disappears. 3. What else can you do with the $1000 odd dollars? 4. As mentioned the closer the throttle butterfly(s) are to the motor itself the better the throttle response will be. 5. The Group A cars ran the manifold with out mods so how about "It was good enough to win three SATCC's & two Bathursts" as an argument? 6. I think bkc meant coherent rather than cogent. To ne a cogent reply would entail it having a persuasive argument in one direction rather than the more balanced approach that was taken.

Really, choosing an oil for hp gains is pointless. Even so the differences in the results for the different oils is only a couple kW in 200 odd. Which is to say within the margins of experimental error. Which is to say it makes NO WORTHWHILE difference. A fully synthetic oil will deposit less crap (technical term) in your motor than a semi synthetic & a mineral oil. That is why they are better. I used to run my old N/A motor on Shell Helix & you could eat your dinner off the damn thing. As turbo motors have heat stress issues much more than atmo motors (& therefore more issues with deposits) it is much more important to run good quality oil.

Could you do me a small favour. Measure up the wheelbase of the car before & after you wind all that caster in. just curious to see how much it changes. Also curious to see how long the upper wishbone bushes last....

I am clearly missing something here. I gave you the build number of a NISMO edition R32 GT-R in the other thread. They were the evolution model that the group A cars was officially based on. They had all the extra bits of spoilers/cut outs etc. If there is any difference between the part numbers for the front spoiler on that & the povvo pack GT-R it will show up. My thing has the slots in the front bumper. They are nothing special - you just need to trim the bumper to suit. Other than the holes the bumper is exactly the same. They aren't at all hard to put in as there is nothing behind the bumper on that location. If you want NISMO bling there are tonnes of other bits & pieces they make. Most of it is hideously expensive. In all honesty the Nismo add ons are nothing special in terms of quality. The extra spolier bits warp, distort & bend & generally look pretty awful after a few years. I have bought an after market replica of the rear lip spoiler on the back of how bloody terrible my Nismo item looks. Carbon fibre generally looks prettier than plastic in any case. As far as I know the only option you could get on your standard R32 GT-R were heated external mirrors....

Please don't take this the wrong way, but f^%k you city people do my head in. For anyone who lives in a regional area channel ten don't broadcast the F1. Win television do. What does that mean? Well for me atleast it means no digital commercial telly. It means fun broadcast times - like the Malaysian GP went to air at 1:40 on TUESDAY morning. I knew it was the Formula 1 because the telly guide had it listed as round 2 of the A1GP. When that Big Brother shite is on the F1 never gets shown until about 2.00am. So you have to turn of the radio on the way to work to avoid finding out who won the race. Lucky the West Australian newspaper thinks sports includes only football, horseracing & cricket. You would get Foxtel to make up the difference - except the satellite gives up the ghost every time it rains. Just great for a winter sport. And don't even get me started on GWN, football & V8's. Until this year I never even saw any of the Saturdays races. If it wasn't for the fact that I dont need to spend four hours a day stuck in traffic jams.... Gretal Kalleen. Mutton dressed up as hooker.

I am sorry, but I don't understand that at all.

To quote someone famous: Dont use AVGas. Just use a properly designed fuel like Sunoco, C16, Elf Turbomax and the others that dont come to mind If you do use decent fuel, you should be able to make 420-440rwkw with as much boost screwed in as you can Avgas is designed for aero engines that turn over at a low rpm setting at constant speeds for hours on end. Not for an RB26. Use the proper fuel as it will burn better & generate more horsepower.

Yes it works, but I would question whether or not it is actually worth the effort of putting in a double skinned pipe. It you do a quick calculation on the flow rate & then work out the heat transfer difference between the single & double pipes I suspect you will get pretty close to sod all difference. If you are worried about it (particularly where it goes over the radiator) just wrap it in tape. Also, by reversing the flow of the I/C you will be getting a larger pressure drop across the system. Simply because the hot gas goes further in your set up. Just some things to think about.

Psychic powers? Because the KBNR32RXFSLM2G build identifier is the same as for the early R32 Gt_R's The N1 editions had completely different sequences. There is NO DIFFERENCE between an N1 bar & that for a Nismo version. Apart from the slots & the intercooler mesh there is no difference between the N1 version & the ordinary GT-R. So why do you want/need an N1 version (not that there is such a thing?)

228

Roy rake angle can be best understood by referring to the difference in front & rear roll couple & particularly the jacking effect of the rear suspension. But more easilly by referring to the front ride height relative to the rear ride height, ie nose down versus nose up etc. Having adjusted mine a few times I can make the following observations: A nose down car will turn in very well but then tend to wash out through the corner. A nose up car will not turn in well enough. A car with the proper rake angle will have a good match between the balance on turn in and the balance at the apex of the corner. So you don't for example, turn the thing in only to find yourself understeering & missing the apex of the corner by a foot because the front end has lost interest. Hope that makes sense.

sorry mate, its just a plain Jane Gt-R.

Yeah, come on Dan, there hasn't been a flare up in the ECU wars for a few weeks now.

My rear camber was 1 degree 15 minutes & the ride height 345mm. As I said it fouled until the guards were rolled.

I am particularly glad no one bothered to read my first post. There are several things to consider. 1. For a turbo motor the higher the pressure ratio that the compressor is running at the higher the temperature will be at the outlet. So what the hell does that mean? Means that if you inlet air is less dense because of flow restrictions the turbo needs to work at a higher pressure ratio to flow the same mass of air which in turn means the air entering the intercooler is hotter. Airflow restriction bad, no flow restrictions good. 2. The circumstance in 1 is no where near as bad as running you pod in hot engine bay air in the first palce - see my first post. 3. The amount of air being shoved around the engine bay through the radiator both by the cars motion & the fans will be more than that going through your cold air intake. So seal the cold air intake from the engine bay gases. 4. You will get heat soak even with a good intercooler on a hot day. Have a look at the attachment. Compare the blue lines - the second of the two shows acceleration falling of only when the I/C gets hot.

You are correct - up to a point. What you have neglected to mention is that as the gas cools an increase in density means it sees a DECREASE in volume. So measured in cfm (or whatever units people prefer) there is much less VOLUME of gas to be removed. In an exhaust the velocity of the gas is proporional to the volume of gas. The result of the lower gas velocity & the lower volume is that there is a lower pressure differential needed to push it out the back, that is back pressure drops. The effects of a reduction in volume (driven by temnperature change) is much more influential on pressure drop than the effects of an increase in density. I am not going to post up the calcs for this, I am sorry but they are complicated at best & not really of much help unless people wants to spend hours studying fluid dynamics & compressible flow. But the short answer is the more temperature you can dump out of your exhaust gas the less back pressure you will see.

Speaking of Alcons calipers - you didn't happen to write down the caliper part number by any chance?

Innovation is great. It is one of the things that marks F1 as the pinnacle of motor sports. Unfortunately the era of the revolutionary design & for that matter privateer teams (Lotus, Brabham, Tyrrell, March, Jordan, Lola etc etc etc) has passed. The kinds of budgets provided by the manufacturers is eye watering. But how long will, for example, Toyota be willing to keep throwing hundreds of millions of dollars to allow Schumacher to make an arse of himself on a Sunday arvo? Or Renault if the results don't return? Or Honda is they keep this years form up? The popularity of various categories & even motorsport as a whole waxes & wanes. Hell WRC used to be lined with manufacturers - now there are only three. The BTCC had nine or ten FACTORY teams. Now it only has a couple. Remember the Group C sports cars? I don't think it will have slipped Toyotas attention how much they need to spend in F1 to get nowhere compares to how much they are spending in NASCAR getting nowhere.

Well the current point system hasn't been current for very long. It used to be 9-6-4-3-2-1. So if you finished 7th you got SFA. Wasn't such a problem when the cars weren't so reliable as the minnows could snaffle points still. But when you had the 2 Ferraris, the 2 Renaults & 2 random other cars finishing every race the other makers didn't even get a sniff. So they changed it. The best way to promote overtaking is not to fiddle with the points but to make it easier to overtake. But I reckon that conversation has been had once or twice before.

This may save alot of time for you: Blue is the air filter temp. Pink is the compressor outlet. Yellow is the I/C outlet. Cyan if the throttle body. Car was a skanky RX-7 with a Chinese front mount & an unshielded air pod. Note the bad arsed heat soak on the I/C when the car is at a standstill last in the test. Not good for drags or hillclimbs..... Conditions: Ambient 15 deg. Drive down hwy at 100 k's, brake and accelerate from 2nd gear throught to 8000 rpm in 4th, cruise for about 30 sec and the accelerate from 3rd gear to 8000 rpm in 4th. Stop and idle for about 45 seconds shortly after. Temps at 8000 rpm in 4th for first test: air filter 48 after turbo 117 after I/C 45 throttle body 51 Temps at 8000 rpm in 4th for second test: air filter 47.3 after turbo 122.6 after I/C 45.9 throttle body 53 Temp at air filter after stationary at idle for about 45sec was 84 deg! Thermo fans switched on and filling engine bay with hot air obviously. So, based on the above results for the second test lets to some 'what if' scenarios based on different inlet temps to see what effect they have on the after I/C temps. Intercooler efficiency = 71 %. Temp rise across turbo = 75.3 deg. Using these figures some calculated and an ambient temp of 15 deg, after I/C temps are: Assumed inlet temp/Calculated after I/C temp 15/ 36.6 20/ 38.1 30/ 40.9 60/ 49.5 80/ 55.3 So if I can get the inlet temp before turbo down to 20 deg (allowing for 5 deg pre turbo piping heat soak above ambient), I should get a reduction in after I/C temp of 7.8 deg. Which is not that big a deal for high speed driving (ractrack), but I'll still be sorting out an out of engine bay filter location given that most events I do have a standing start followed by a lot of slow speed (2nd and 3rd gear) work.