djr81

For my 10 cents AP. A question for you: What type of connection is there between the rotor & the hat on the AP disc? They promise great things for the strap drive. A second question: Compare & contrast such things as piston area & pad size. This will tell you which is more appropriate for you car. A third question: Price up the replacement of the rotor only. They will wear out eventually & it is best to find out now if there is a substantial difference in prices between the two.

What brand did you get? I usually find the ABV gear to be pretty good.

So, are they still lunching gearboxes like there is no tomorrow, or has someone found a fix for that?

Well first thing to do is check to see what kind of suspension you have. Are they aftermarket coilovers by any chance? Secondly no RB20 ever had any bottom end. You can't fix this.

If it is an R32 GT-R the most common sizes are 255/40/17 235/45/17 Both are as common as muck.

They are very beautiful. Can I ask who you bought them from?

Well my guess would be they are probably the 332mm rotors, either 28mm or 32mm thick. Probably Perth Brake Parts is as good a place as any. If the brake pads aren't new I would be replacing them anyway. If they are new it will be pretty easy to identify them. Have a look at the AP racing site for the pads that suit the caliper you have. There is a whole list for the CP5200's. Did the kit come with adaptors? Also what about braided lines?

Hmm, well when they are on the track & if used properly (ie not nannad around) the treadface temperature should be well into the 70 degree mark & sometimes into the 80's. It is difficult to get anywhere near this when storing the tyres, wherever that may be. So just be aware using them on a track day will for example heat cycle them half a dozen times. Keeping them stored won't cycle them at all. Bottom line: tyres are for using, not storing. If you can get more than a season out of them you really should get out more.

Hmm, I use DS2500's & I am very happy with them. Some things to note: They really aren't that dusty. They will make a little noise when cold, but the best cure for this is to bed them in properly. They come with instructions - so follow the instructions. They appear to be fairly gentle on the rotors. Mine cost <$300 for the fronts, delivered.

Well the answer to your question (& you probably won't like it) is to talk to the people who sold you the kit. On the assumption it was Racebrakes or similar they should be able to help you out quite quickly. There is very little good info on the net with regard to matching up brakes/master cylinders. The CP5200 is a 4 piston caliper with 49.5cm2 of piston area. What rotor are you running it on. Also, what have you got at the rear? Fluid? I use Motul RBF600. 600 degree dot 4 fluid. About $28 for 500ml. Probably best to buy two bottles.

For the unitiated he was clearly joking. Don't put that shit anywhere near your good tyres.

Er, no. I was kind of hoping someone else may have had one.

Has anyone seen the BP & GT40 adverts. They were made at Monza way, way back along time ago....

Well out in the world, yes. But on the dyno it is different. As I understand it (Read, probably don't) the inertia of the dyno mechanism needs to be taken into account when the power figures are worked out. Now the dyno somehow needs to differentiate this inertia from the cars drivetrain inertia. So what I am trying to say is that if you lessen the cars drivetrain inertia it will accelerate faster (Without any extra horsepower) but if the inertia figure in the dyno for the car doesn't get changed it "sees" it as more horsepower. Now my head hurts.

Probably a good idea to clean all the brake dust etc off the rims before you put them away too.

I hope everyone realises that some dynos see a lower rotating inertia for the drivetrain & erroneously accredit the quicker ramp up of the system to there being more horsepower. ie put in your tailshaft & the dyno will show a gain in horsepower that is not really there. Which is not to say that lower weight/inertia is not a very good thing in itself.

Yeah like the Baron said. Just put them in the shed. Make sure they are out of the sun as you don't want them heat cycling once per day. Cover them up & watch out for red back spiders when you get them out.

R32 GTS-T: 25.4mm dia R33 GTS-T: 23.8mm dia R32 GT-R (Sumitomo): 25.4mm R32 GT-R (Brembo): 26.9mm Not sure about the N/A Master cylinder sizes, however, nor why the R32 T has a larger bore than the 33 T.

What you need do is compare the piston area of the calipers of the new set up with that of the old. If it is much larger you will get a longer pedal travel, but not necessarilly a spongy pedal. The two are different things. Sponginess is usually caused by air in the system, so have the brakes been bled properly? But yes a larger bore on the master cylinder will give you a shorter, harder pedal & arguably one with more feel.

So does the car start ok if you leave it for say, a week or two?

would i need to machine it again? or can i just.. replace them without needing to machine the rotors again i only get them machined is there are surface irregularities or the discs are warped. are the nissan stock brake pads any good? Good for what? They are ok for normal driving. Not sure on price, however. There is a huge selection of pads out there. A world beyond Bendex, infact.

Apparently the new distributor for Stoptech gear is now V-Sport. Tony who I spoke to was very helpfull & knowledgeable. Also, from what I understand there is a Brembo kit for a Z32 with a 332x32 rotor & an F40 caliper. Has anyone used these?

The CAMS approved list for helmets is far broader than just AS1698. So check the list. Many helmets worn on the track are not complied to AS1698. Like mine, for instance.

Is it true. Yes. Differences are threefold. 1. You can see all of the maps in one go & changing between them is easier. 2. You can access more functionality by using the laptop, ie there is stuff you can;t get to using the hand controller. 3. You can do proper data logging using a laptop. Is the hand controller sufficient to map your ecu. In short, yes.

I for one don't understand the purpose of the regulation requiring teams to run two different compounds. Judging by the Melbourne GP two thing can & probably will happen. 1. No one uses them until the last, shortened stint in the race because as often as not they will grain & the teams don't want to risk it. Running them on a rubbered in track lessens the chance of graining, but by then the race is almost always over anyway. 2. Cars with suspension that is harder on their tyres (mostly the mid ranked teams) just become less competitive anyway. There is a chance the harder of the two compounds will be the better option at some tracks. In which case whether or not you run them other than last entirely depends on if you believe you will get a pace car during the race. As ever artificial means to "spice up the racing" inevitably works for about 10 minutes until everyone cottons onto the best strategy. Then everything just reverts back to normal - wasting time, money & peoples rapidly diminishing attention spans. If they want to make the racing more interesting give everyone proper soft compound tyres & get rid of re-fuelling.