djr81

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch.htm To fix it you take it out and put a new one in. Sorry if that sound harsh Im not trying to be clever but you need to get it to a mechanic.

Your clutch is stuffed.

Welcome. Which of the three locations you doing the work in, or is it all of them?

Wont a paint thickness gauge only be able to measure the total dft of the primer plus colour plus clear coat?

The zinc I reckon to be a good thing. The petrol equivalent has that too. The dispersants I don't reckon you need diesel levels in a petrol engine, even one as dirty as a fat on fuel RB26. The shortcomings in the diesel oil to my mind are a lack of friction modifiers (Costing hp and fuel) and that it is semi synthetic (Compensated for by the dispersants in it). I would argue, however, that you are better off with the fully synthetic petrol equivalent in a 10W50 (HPR10 10W50) or if you want to be really flash the Racing products. But each to their own.

Engines are engines. The difference between diesel and petrol is that diesels are dirty stinking horrible buckets of snot and the oils for them are designed to deal with all that rubbish. So you run it in a petrol motor and logically end up with it being very clean. Whether or not that is necessary and what you may be losing in other areas I couldnt even begin to quantify as I am no tribologist.What I would say about the Penrite stuff is they appear to have usefully more zinc in them than other oils if the blurb on the can can be beleived. Zinc helps look after surfaces like the cam buckets in your rb26. Alot of oils reduce zinc content to look after the catalysts. Have had a bloke in an old Alfa turn up his nose at the offer of some Mobil 1 for that very reason. Also alot of engine oils are useable for both petrol and diesel so the differences arent necessarily so marked. Would I want a non friction modified semi synthetic oil, probably not but the HPR diesel is also listed a suitable for petrol motors. So it is an interesting choice and a pretty unconventional one but not necessarily as odd as it may appear on face value.

Yeah that is what I am after. XXL GP JET whatever number they are up to now. Appear to be about $630 USD in the US. Mind you the 2010 version which is the same is $400.

It isn't a huge tack (If you can find a dyno) to get it run up and the afr's checked. It is good insurance at the minimum.

What brand is the second check valve - in the oil cooler line?

Thanks for the tips fellas. Usually what happens is the motorbike shops don't sell the motorsport open face versions, neither do the karting places leaving you with Revolution Racegear and the like. Which don't discount stuff. Same same for overseas not many places offering Arai motorsport helmets.

Closest you'll get to a stock look is a NIsmo can but they are crack money to buy and a pain to install.

He is talking about initial bite around town which is different from how it feels when you are trying to stop really quick. The hoses, stoppers etc help at high pedal pressure but far less so driving around the streets. Mish is on the money looking to pads to fix it. Ultimately the Sumitomo calliper isnt one of the greatest ever, however. Also the amount of pad dust doesnt really align with many other properties other than maybe price. Eg Bendix ultimates are really dusty. Wear too can be an oddity. A DS2500 pad will wear a rotor out quicker on the back than the front.

HKS drawing. May try Jesse Streeter as from what I can see there is a lot of fresh air in the box it comes in. Would appear to be ripe for repackaging

http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/products/pad_hcplus.php http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/products/pad_ns.php

I usually reckon the stock set up to be fine but you can put a can in the system that sits on top of the engine that helps knock some oil out. Search JJR for Autech style.

Project Mu.

Cant help with the miss, but can offer the following. When the afms get oily it is because the turbo sucks the blowby out of the cam covers, carrying oil with it. If you follow the breather line from the exhaust cam cover it finishes in the suction side of the rear turbo. There is a restrictor in the hose so the suction isn't too much and no one ever changes it when they put bigger turbos on the car. The other thing that happens is when oil gets on the afm's they measure high. So you get a rich fuel mixture. What is the afr at 4000 rpm and did it change with the change/cleaning of afm's. Lastly unless there is oil dripping out of the bovs when you leave the car parked you don't have a problem. Even if it does you may not have a problem.

Yeah I know - the Jasma thing was a feeble joke. Car has an APEXI on it but no chance of getting that again, obviously.

Mostly because I live in the country and the options for non muppet related exhaust shops are pretty limited and competence tends to run out at 3". Can anyone recommend brand names - cause it is all about the brand name, mostly JASMA. But seriously that would help.

Am probably going to end up with a need for a new exhaust on my old GTR. The usual wish list of stainless, quiet with little power loss applies. The following HKS system looked pretty good (I don't want a drone cannon) http://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/product/exhaust/muffler/stm/index.html Anyway the point is the system runs to $1000 plus $470 worth of air freight pricing from RHD Japan and I suspect with the application of Straya tax it would be more again if I sourced it locally. The question is: Is there a better/cheaper exhaust option or a better shipping option that anyone has used recently? Please note I live in WA so freight ex the eastern states can hurt a bit too. Not trying to be a tight arse just cant fathom the logic of spending so much on air freight for something that isn't urgent and never had any success in using sea freight.

Good to know motorsport can be other than a spectator sport.

So nearly all the time on the Honda?

You are just upset you wont be getting his new album for Christmas.

No, it is doubtless an excellent engine oil for diesel engines and the folks at Penrite would have laboured long and hard to make it so. It will be fine with just about any semi synthetic or full synthetic oil you can buy. They are all streets ahead of the stuff Nissan filled them with 25 years ago. Having said that I still use a full synthetic oil. As for slag or deposits there should be none anyway, so no need to concern yourself with them.

But thats the stupid thing. The engines cost vast amounts of money and the teams down the pecking order don't get enough coin to run properly because Ferrari keep it all. So they damage the sport to protect their own short tem interests. Like they have been doing for the last 20+ years. The cost constraints don't work. The teams don't get enough income. The circuits don't get enough income so you get dodgy third world governments propping up the races and the good venues get nothing. Ticket prices are so high because it is the only income the circuits receive. Speaking of third world countries I though the prices for the Melbourne GP started at half way sensible $'s?