djr81

Interesting. I should explain a little. Firstly I have no problem with regard to either my car or my RAW at this point. It is all good. But I was suprised by some of the content of the agreement I was asked to sign subsequent to me buying the car through the RAW. #1  I understand that should the above mentioned vehicle arrive in a condition not fit for compliance, it shall be disposed of in accordance with the Guide to Registered Automotive Workshops at a cost to myself as the customer. #2  I acknowledge that it is my responsibility to provide the original Japanese De-Registration Certificate as required by the RAW to prove the origin of the vehicle. #3  I acknowledge that any recall on this vehicle carried out in the next 10 years shall be the financial responsibility of myself as the customer. As for #1 - well I would be somehwat unhappy (to put it mildly) to have to pay for the disposal of a car bought through the same broker/RAW. #2. Not sure why it is my responsibility to do this when clearly the broker is engaged for this sort of thing. #3. The language here is a bit loose. I understand that they meant to say a recall from the manufacturer. I don't see how a recall on their work (compliance work especially) can be held to be my financial responsibility...

I meant in the instance of the vehicle being "not fit for compliance" & unfixable rather than just plain failing an inspection. I had thought that the RAWS had certain obligation to fulfill BEFORE the car was shipped. Obviously I got it wrong. Given that the broker is the same company as the compliance shop I would like to see how they would wriggle out of paying for it in any case.

Just a quick question. I ahve been asked to sign a disclaimer from a RAWs workshop (Standard doc) which amongst other things says that the cost of dealing with a vehicle not fit for compliance was mine. Now I was under an understanding that it belonged to the broker/RAWS workshop? I was digging through the sludge in the DOTARS website but I can't even find any reference to it. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Oh, and before anyone gets fired up, no there is no problem with any workshop or any car.

Power steering fluid will find its way around to the drivers side quite easily. Mine does when it gets too hot & I have put too much into the reservoir. If it is red it is probably just that. With regard to the oil pump, no an oil leak is not a sign of impending failure. Remember that the oil filter, if it is leaking leaks on top of the front diff. It is unusual for it to get hosed all over your strut tower, hoever. My bet is that it is power steering fluid. Check the level & maybe empty a little out. If the problem goes away you have found your man.

I suspect the car (Adrian Newey, Renault engines & bulk cash aside) will be rubbish for most of the year. Looks like Webber will have to spend another year dragging an unwilling heap of rubbish around the track. He did that last year & spanked Rosberg in the process. Didn't hurt Rosberg's career any, so here is hoping it won't do any damage to Kryten.

Well at the time it looked to be the sensible thing to do. Williams were winning GP's & Renault couldn't make their minds up whether to stay or go. (Joe Strummer style) One of those things that looks stupid in hindsight. Mind you there will be a bit of competition next year for that seat.

Wow, I used to want to be the airbox on the Williams FW13B. Either that or Mauricio Gugelmin. Ahhhh, happy days. Unfortunately it looks to be Ferrari first, daylight second. Hope I'm wrong. Gees I hope Flava Flave has Webber sorted for a Renault drive next year.

Could I get a build date on the following: BNR32311609 Thanks in advance.

With vented rotors you have to be a bit careful. The width of the rotor is not necessarilly the whole story when it comes to temperature handling. Bear with me for a little bit.... The ventilated rotor is mostly just fresh air. You have the middle section (for want of a better name) where the vanes in the rotor provide the cooling. The more vents the more cooling. The more vents the more weight. The actual bits of the rotor that do the work are the sections on either side of the vent. These are not the same thickness for all rotors. By way of an example an R32 GT-R will allow you 2mm wear on these. Some aftermarket rotors only have a 1 mm limit. Guess which one carries more metal? Always check the allowable wear limit when buying new rotors. You may be in for a nasty shock. In short if you buy aftermarket buy hatted.

I think you are overselling them a little. They aren't even that good.

They are not an industrial part - so Blackwoods etc won't be of much use to you. Maybe try http://www.rocketindustries.com.au/search....amp%3B+Steering Or better yet www.gogear.com.au - these blokes are in WA, however.

Any half decent motorsport supplier will be able to sell you rose joints. Just look up the yellow pages.

I can recommend the second & third businesses on that list.

Take it to a dyno. Get them to run it up & check the AFR's. How much boost you can run will depend on the state of your fuel system & your AFM's. Just make sure it isn't running lean or it will die.

The part number for it is 25070-30P01.

Well it is just money at the end of the day. It won't cost alot to try the new fronts with the current rears. You may well find if you are pulling up a full weight GT-R with that kind of hp the pad size in the standard Sumitomo calipers or even the Brembo's is far too small. It would be worth your while to check on the pad sizes offered by Stoptech in their calipers. They seem to have some fairly large offerings.

From my experience the rears on an R32 will lock before the fronts. So If you are only adding in a small incrrease in front rotor diameter is it actually worth mucking around at the back?

Well sort of, not really, it depends. If you are buying a new rotor why not just get the 32mm width? There are a number of elements as to cooling. One of the most important, yet most neglected, is the number of cooling vanes internal to the rotor. These effectively work like a fan and pump air through the rotor. The more vanes the more airflow. So it might be an idea to ask C-Red (Stoptech agent?) how many the things have.

That is a really odd question. 32mm is what they come from the factory new. I guess you could go wider than that is you ran old pads, but.... By way of comparo the V8 Sillycars run rotors that are 375x25mm. So you can see the Nissan stuff is small in diameter & quite fat. A number of aftermarket rotors can be had in either 1 1/8" & 1 1/4", ie 28 or 32mm.

What was wrong with George Fury? An HR31 will be cheaper than a DR30. Arguably a DR will have more motorsport cred than an R31 GTS-X (The R being the homologation model). Not sure a DR30 would be quicker than an R31. In any case the later model has a slightly better suspension. If you remember the DR30's (Remember Seton at Bathurst in '87? Scary stuff.) they were pretty wild things to drive. Also an RB will have more parts availability & be more easilly modified than an FJ. At the end of the day choosing between these two cars will depend on which you really want. Objectively you probably wouldn't buy either and go with a 32 or a 33 like everyone else. It will probably come down to being able to find a nice example of either.

1. A long brake pedal (excessive motion) This can & will happen if the new calipers you choose have too great a piston area. Remember bigger is not necessarily better. 2. A heavy brake pedal (excessive force required) This is actually fairly difficult to achieve with the Nissan setups, but if you try hard enough... 3. An imbalance in the front to rear braking distribution (premature front or rear brake lock up) An imbalance can quite easily occur. You need to carefully match the rotor diameters, piston areas, brake master cylinder to all work in harmony. If for example you end up with big front rotor with a small piston area you are pretty much guaranteed to prematurely lock fronts & actually degrade the overall braking performance. That is why you need to talk to the vendor & confirm that your chosen set up has been successful on someone elses car. The things people need to measure are the following: Longitudinal retardation. Brake temperatures. Rotor & pad life. Obviously there are other subjective "feel" parameters but as often as not this is a function of the rotor & pad as much as anything. With regard to my R32 R. It has standard brakes. The maximum gees I can reach under braking is a little over 1. About 1.1. The rears do lock before the fronts, but there isn't really enough braking power to lock the fronts from high speed with R compounds. The three thermographic paint markers on the rotors have all flashed off & the rotors themselves show signs of surface cracking which is how you recognise a rotor that is working hard. The rotor life sucks, but the DS2500 last well. Yes I need better rotor cooling. As an aside if anyone has the specs for the 4 pot Alcon gear, ie piston sizes, pad sizes, caliper weight/dimensions etc I would be interested in finding out what they are. As another aside here is a cutout of the AP Racing CP5555 caliper & rotor failing to fit inside my 17" rims. (Previous post)

Hmm, computer not happy.

Double post, sorry.

Well good luck getting service out of PWR for the Alcon gear. Maybe it was just me or my timing or something but I wasn't impressed by their lack of response or their prices. Racebrakes on the other hand couldn't have been more helpful (AP Racing)

So is it registered?