djr81

Well that is fair enough. A two way will give you some push understeer on turn in. In a GT-R this is probably last to very last on the things you want to have. Hence the 1.5 way at the rear. On the front I was of a mind that the more gentle in transition the better off you will be. Maybe I am wrong in that - they don't seem to torque steer, so maybe a more sudden cut in will be ok.

The GT-R wasn't banned. Can we stop propagating that myth now, please? Oh and as for the comment that touring car racing was interesting then. Well I beg to differ. 91 & 92 were two of the most stultifyingly boring & predictable years of racing I have ever had the misfortune to sit through. The fields were thin, the races short (20 minutes each!) & the tv coverage dire. The wonder is that Touring Car racing in this country survived at all, let alone prospered.

I was looking for a similar sort of thing. With regard to the one way fronts there are actually four options (I think). Type RS (low initial torque) Type MZ (Initial torque created by the cone plates) Now both of these come with either 35 or 45 degree cams. So what does it all mean. Dunno. But I would think an RS would be preferable?

To the best of my understanding you can have a rear cage if the car is registered as a 2 seater.

Hmm couple of things. Don't add any fuel additive that changes the density of the fuel. This is just asking for trouble. Yes ethanol will change the density of the fuel. If you are using a hudrocarbon additive don't touch the stuff or get in on your paint. Cyclic hydrocarbon molecules are seriously evil things - don't breath the stuff in etc. Specifically I am talking about toluene, but this applies to most other additives, even oils & hydrocarbons in general. Choose your Octane booster wisely. I use this stuff. If you only run it periodically you will find the orange cack doesn't build up much if at all - atleast that is what I have found. http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php?productId=pso Chances are if a product is marketed as octane booster & fuel injector cleaner it does sfa to the octane rating. Just my 10 cents.

Far be it from me to be sensible, but without the marshalls & flaggies there would be no motorsport. At all. Ever. It is a constant battle for event organisers to get sufficient people to volunteer. So maybe you could try encouraging your friends to show them some respect or even to volunteer themselves. Giving up you day to assist other people is hardly the act of a scabby loser. Quite the opposite infact. Peace, love & mung beans.

Hmm, interesting. I cannot fault my Jet 2 for quality, so am not quite sure what you mean by that. It fits me nice but then again everyones head is a different shape. The Jet F is a more recent model than the Jet 2 hence the availability of Hans pegs. Make sure when they turn up that you look inside to see the safety code the helmet complies to. It will either be SA00 or SA05. If it is SA00 hammer them on price because it will be old stock. The helmet is still perfectly compliant and useable, however.

The Toyo (Both the 888 & the RA1) are infact very good tyres. Most people over my way (ie WA) use RE55's in the larger sizes but the Toyo is quite common in smaller sizes. A mate of mine who should know swears by them.

Nice result. I should add too that the idle doesn't appear to be adversely affected.

Thanks Femno & Baron. Put the things in on the weekend. Adjusted the CAS so the timing light was indicating the same as the PFC handset. Results? Well nothing much discernable from the data logger. Problem being that turbo motors are greatly influend by ambient air temps & I can't log these. Subjectively it felt much better through 4000rpm and seemed to spool up a little quicker. So I am happy with the results.

Yes, but you need one to start with. Which I don't have.

Well I had (still have, unfortunately) DBA rotors on my R32. The 4000 series crack from the small return slots on the outside circumference. I am quite sure these slots do bugger all apart from instigating cracks, so I don't know why they are there. If you look at most slotted rotors the slots stop short of the outside of the disc....

You don't need to be looking at the battery CCA (cold cranking amps) you need to be looking at the capacity of the battery. Try having a look at some of the dry cell batteries (Oddysey, Optima & similar) At the end of the day, however you need to find where the drain is going to.

He only had the conical type so unsurprisingly I went for that one. He only had one set of them so they were probably a sample. The bonus is installation is cheap & easy so if I don't like it I can just drop the lower arm back off & bin 'em. He didn't have any front ones, so I can't presently source any of them at all. Do you have any thoughts on the rake question?

Not sure on the length, but one of these...

Hmm, double post, nice work. See the next one.

Well the rear roll centre adjusters are in a bag somewhere over the nullaboar at about 50,000 feet. Question I have is this: Should I try a pre emptive lower front ride height (355 doen to the next lowest setting on the SK Bilsteins) to increase the rake angle & turn tte car in better? Also, the bloke I bought them off is now on the business traders as drift motorsport. Has some nice stuff.

Presently stock & stock.

I assumed you had to as the CAS is driven off the exhuast cam.

Sorry to re-ask a question that has doubtless been asked before (Search turned up nothing, however) but: If, for example I set the cam gears to +4 degrees inelt & -2 degrees exhaust does this mean the timing needs to go to 16 degrees BTDC on the crank. Can anyone with these adjustable gears on a stock RB26 (+ pods + exhaust + 1 bar boost) confirm these number to be about right? I had this all figured out once, but old age & infirmary makes me forget.

Ferni, Did you have any joy getting information out of PWR about the Alcon calipers? I wanted to know the piston sizes etc for their 4 pot gear & couldn't get an answer. Their website has SFA also.

I have a question. How hot is err, hot, ie how hot does the dash have to be?

By Japan do you mean the usual suspects (Greenline, Nengun etc) or is there someone who does Nissan bits in particular. It's just that I wanted a new one & like you said second hand ones can sometimes be very second hand.

Cheers Ant. You up for the SES Short circuit on the long weekend?

Work computer. But I probably should have paid attention at school too. For me the biggest difference was new dampers. Just a different world. Sway bars weren't that huge for me.