djr81

Snobbery. By the way they made more AU's than any other model.

This is good advice. The only thing I would add is always use synthetic oil in a turbro.

Point shouldn't need to be made that the engineering in an AU is massively better than that in an F40, but there it is. So too the build quality. Still, pointing out the obvious may help someone out.

The colour code is in the middle of the vin plate. What colour is it in real life? KH2 - Gun Grey Metallic KG1 - Jet Silver Metallic KL0 - Spark Silver Metallic TH1 - Dark Blue Pearl AH3 - Red Pearl Metallic 732 - Black Pearl Metallic 326 - Crystal White BL0 - Greyish Blue Pearl (special order)

For what it is worth the Nismo 1.5 way I have is so fkn tight it may as well be a two way. Shits me to tears it does. Clunkety clunk clunk. It isn't just the ramp angle that is key here. The amount of preload on the clutch packs before you add the motors torque is also important. Get much of that and the diff will be an annoying clunkfest.

Nice. A 1980 Falcon based ESP? Good luck keeping the rust mites away and look after that interior! Oh and if you ever see and XE ESP with an EFI motor for sale please PM the crap out of me.

Thread needs more ESP pics.

It doesn't get launched very often, if at all. Not much interested in drags or hillclimbs. The Nismo clutch is good other than all that copper makes it feel sticky underfoot. Cost is not a huge issue but I don't think I really want to spend $5k on a clutch. Ill have a look at the Xtreme option. Thanks for the recommendation. I used to have a HKS twin plate which was pretty rattly but it had bugger all flywheel so got slipped a fair bit and hence worn out.

Maybe 500rwhp or thereabouts.

Which version of the drop ins do you have? A or B? Oh and good to see a dyno chart that is not a single and is on petrol. 👍

Does anyone have a recommendation for a replacement clutch for my R32 R. I currently have a Nismo twin plate (The super copper mix one) and it is, in short, horrible. Happy with the twin plates, happy with the lightened flywheel its just that the friction surface is sticky and horrible to slip It makes driving the car around town a chore. Output is 450rwhp only.

There lies a question. What does the catch can have inside by way of baffles/filters/flow restrictors etc etc to stop the puked oil getting out the breathers and just as importantly the accumulated oil sloshing around.

Without knowing exactly what they are it is difficult. However, try these people: https://www.efisolutions.com.au/?rf=kw&kw=2+pin+grey

Well, the blurb says: The Tomei forged piston kit for the legendary Nissan RB26DETT engine have been proven to withstand the highest level of performance in your tuned GTR engine. High quality forged pistons developed through years of Tomei tuning experience Valve Recessed version required for Tomei Camshafts with Lift greater than 10.8mm. Suitable for both RB26 and RB28 stroker kits Includes Piston Rings, Piston Pins and Circlips. So yes to the first question for a 2.6 litre rebuild. (Whether you want to do that is another question as better rods are relatively cheap.) If you want a stroker you need a crank and rods, obviously.

Skinnier yes, but isnt it M14 & M12 rather than M12 & M10 as posted above?

Good result but you could have tried ringing around the wrecking yards on the Gold Coast first... https://www.whichcar.com.au/car-news/ferrari-f40-crash

As Duncan said the F40 is a chunky old 4 piston calliper which I chose because it was 1990 something and because it has the same piston area as the GTR Brembos with a larger and fairly common pad. Point being that if anything is going to foul the BBS spokes it is probably that calliper. And it doesnt. The BBS rims in that size are ex Japan and from what I can tell made for the 32 GTR. 17x9+20.

I'll go and take one when I get home. Yes definately 17's. Like yours there is little room between the spokes of the rim and the calliper.

I have these rims on my R32 GTR and they clear F40 callipers on 324 rotors.

Doubtless he doesnt want oil back into the intercooler/inlet/engine. It doesnt have to be a problem, you just need a decent catch can. So for what its worth I would recommend this style of thing. https://www.autopartssupply.com.au/mann-hummel-provent-200-oil-seperator-catch-can-fi Has a filter, return drain and does the job. It isnt shiney and anodised so marks off for that. You can keep your pcv then which means the crankcase may get some vacuum and generally end up with less crap everywhere. There are different styles without a drain (So you have to empty them periodically). MIshomoto or something similar do one. If venting to atmosphere the pcv if left on will suck fresh air backwards through the catch can on the engine over run so wont actually do anything useful.

Which do you mean? The intercooler, the radiator, the power steering cooler, an oil cooler or the water/oil cooler on the oil circuit? Or something else?

Do you have to replace the screen or can you remove/replace the polarising film on the screen?

Duncan means what model - atmo or turbo, manual or automatic, GTT or GTR, Neo or not Neo which can all make a difference. Maybe post up a vin number and someone may help identify what it is.

Do you mean a stock, unmodified NIssan ECU? Or an aftermarket ecu?

They dont mechanically break down for want of servicing. Hell, mechanically my 32 has been reliable. But what typically happens is random stuff stops working. So the aircon stops working because the soldered joints in the door actuators age and crack. Or the boots on the cv joints split, or the power steering starts leaking because the hose is old and tired or the seats start to fall apart. Basically old car problems becasue its an old car. They are all fixable with enough time/money but no way would you put up with that on a car you needed every day of the week.