djr81

On Skylines the spindles (vertical suspension arms) can and do bend. If so the easiest (best) method of fixing it is to replace the thing. Don't bodge the thing up - fix whats wrong.

What I did was put a spare jack under the trailing part of the sway bar. You can then jack the sway bar & the bolts will align with the links. Tap it in gently. Job done.

For that much hp you should be using aftermarket rods. The differences between H & I patern rods (In terms of performance) is less than some people make out. H pattern (for the same weight) arguably have a lower rotational inertia hence are favoured for high revving motors. I beam rods have a greater stiffness in beding along the crank axis. Best bet is to find one you like (in terms of stated strength) & price.

Good question.

By my rough calculation a solid 25mm anti roll bar is less than twice as stiff as one with a 2.5mm wall thickness. Or to put it another way a 30mm od bar with a 2.5mm wall will do the same job as a solid 25mm bar for less than half the weight.

Upside down, Miss Jane. The turn opposite phase on turn in then same phase mid corner. Which is why HICAS retains the ability to scare the living bejeesus out of you when you are hustling along & need to turn in on an off camber entry...

The inherent problem with the Whiteline sway bars is that they are made from solid bar. There really isn't much excuse for making a torsion bar from anything other than tube....

Well you learn something everyday. When I went to school it was the latent heat of vaporisation that allowed a closed cycle refrigeration system to function. Maybe my school was too old skool or something.

Try the Noltec & the Whiteline websites............ It isn't a big job to change them.

Whiteline can/will sell you a replacement bush, not a rose joint. You can also get an adjustable setup that still uses a bush. Noltec offer the same, infact they can sell you a caster rod with it..

Um, the only way you will get a V-spec as described at the price suggested is with the aid of a shotgun. Try $21-23k before it leaves Japan. By way of an indicator I recently sold my '94 GT-R (non V-spec, largely stock) for $28k.

My money is on Honda to win the summer world championship this year.

An early 80's Porker - terminal oversteer & massive maintenance bills. They are not even that quick. Nice for a bit of nostalgia & a gread sounding motor, but there isn't much more to them than that. Why has no one mentioned an M3 BMW yet?

Try a search as this has been covered as nauseam. But anyway. IMHO stay away from DBA rotors. I had two of four crack (DBA4000 series, one front, one rear) & after two track days the new front LHS rotor already has the beginnings of a crack in it. Try RDA instead. I have no direct experience of them, but they can't be any worse than the DBA gear. Ferodo make good pads, the DS2500 is well regarded for road + some track work. If you want a good brake shop try Racebrakes in either Melbourne or Sydney. Have a think about what you want to do with the car before you either ring them or go see them.

Hmm, the last person to do that was a bloke called Peter Brock.

Go and have a look who Sato beat to become the F3 Champion......

Probably, but they already have actuators. The question is: are the HKS actuators an improvement over what is bolted on by Garrett?

What are you looking for in a GT-R? Stock or modified? 89 or 94 or somewhere in between?

Are these HKS actuators a useful addition to a pair of Garrett GT28-60 707160-5's going onto an RB26? http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/turbo/act/act.html

I don't think anyone is bagging him or his idea just trying to make clear that conversions require a great deal of detail work. There was a twin turbo conversion written up in Zoom magazine ages ago (Workhorse wakeup from memory was the title) in which they bolted on a pair of turbos from a VG30 to an old 4.0litre motor from an XG ute. The results were very good indeed. The point I was trying to make is that bolting a turbo onto the Ford motor is much easier, much cheaper & that the torque put out by a 4.0 litre turbo will eat just about anything, traction issues aside.

Country town. Family name will be synonymous with being coppers.

You are getting confused. The Roadpacer was a HJ Holden sold by Mazda (in Japan) with a 12A in it. The Cosmo was something entirely different & it was only the 1990 - 1995 model that ever had a 20B in it.

$14k. WTF? Why do you need a kit? Surely a second hand/reconned XR6 turbo plus exhaust manifold, PWR Intercooler plus some custom induction pipe work will get the job done for far less than that. Then it is just the fuel system, boost control & ECU, ie the normal stuff you need anyway. Installing a manual trannie on the AU Falcons is actually dead easy. No dash out needed. All the manual pedal etc bolts straight up. I would imagine the EL is fairly similar. If you bypass the ECU & keep the auto what are you going to use to run the transmission & to retard the ignition on gear changes etc. Using a manual trannie makes tuning the egine ECU a whole heap easier. The BA never had twin independent VCT, or atleast they are not independent from each other. Only the BF models are. In any case the function is not used a particularly large amount of the time. Also how much resolution are you going to get in your tune? Enough to take advantage of that feature? From memory the AU 4.0L motor in the XR6's could be had with VCT.

Back in the day... They used to cool the fuel when F1 was racing under the stupid fuel volume constraints in the mid eighties. It gave them a little extra capacity. Basically as long as the fuel in the rail is sufficiently cool not to vaporise in your system you don't have a problem. The small difference in density for a change in temps of, say 10 degrees will not make your AFR change in any noticeable way. So it is a waste of time. Keeping excess heat out of the system can come in handy, however. Note though, that there is a larger volume of fuel charging around the system (& returning to the tank) than goes to the motor. So don't worry overly about it. Lastly, in the DR30 Skylines that Freddie Gibson campaigned they used to use the fuel to cool the ECU.

Matt, One minor problem is that Ford build their sixes arse about, ie with the exhaust on the driver's side. Nissan put it on the passenger side. Silly question, by why dont you just turbo the Ford six? A 4.0 litre turbo will destroy any RB25, not to mention your trannie & diff. There are bucket loads of bits for turbo Fords nowadays, thanks to the XR6 turbo. Also, try talking to Sean out at Adrenaline if your are from Bunno.