djr81

Cheapest way would be to rebadge customer Renault F1 engines as Nissan units. Not sure they would be very successful in comparison to the factory renault effort. Redbull Nissan anyone...

After the thing has been on the engine for a while the heat & vibration will tend to make it harder to remove. As an aside don't the K & N filters have a lug on the end that fits a 1/2" drive on your socket set? Also, the screw driver trick works, but remember there is no going back once you start. The metal skin of a filter is actually quite thin, so be careful.

Stock GT-R's have higher spring rates at the rear than at the front. Lessens the understeer.

The point I was trying to make (With or without the one being carried) is that belting a kerb to a degree is analagous to the random brick on the road the solution to which is the pretty much the holy grail of active suspension. You want compliance at that point.

Think about it in a transient rather than steady state mode. Then factor in your high speed damping effects.

What about the strippers as a learning exercise. Or is that a yearning exercise. The thing to remember (As far as sweeping generalisations go) is that balance is as important as total cornering grip. By the way, does anyone have a torsional rigidity number for the R32 R?

The soft springs hard sway bars also helps (along with some damper settings) in those kerb hopping moments, relative to a stiffer spring/softer sway bar. For my 10 cents I found that stiffer sway bars were a good improvement, but nowhere near as good as new dampers.

In an ideal world you would be able to separate your damping resistance in roll from that in bump & compression. Unfortunately the list of active suspension options for the GT-R are rather limited at zero. Maybe Frank Williams to help out. You sort of have to start looking at anti roll bars as undamped springs to a degree as they don't come with their own dampers & rely on the coil spring dampers. SK, your are correct in saying that when looked at in conjunction with one another the effects of anti roll bars can be counter to that when looked at in a single axle situation. Unfortunately explaining it to people is difficult because one effect is opposite to the other & the importance of them changes depending on the chassis under discussion & the tyre & the suspension geometry & a million other things. I remember Tyrrell using the ultimate anti roll arrangement. One spring & dmper unit for the front end. Don't have to muck about with sway bars then....

That's it. Great stuff. Later on in the fottage you can see the touring car mechanics lining the pit wall to watch. They followed it with edited highlights of the Hang Ten 400 - Moffat, Bond, Johnson in XC Falcons & Brock, Harvey, Grice, Rogers et al in A9X Toranas. Gotta be some of the best TV going around at the moment.

Clean the oil from the outside of the filter. Then go wash your hands (use some laundry detergent). Then grab it hard as you can and undo it. Important note: Do not over tighten your filter.

The only problem with the Whiteline bars is that they are a solid bar. Which is a pretty stupid way of building sway bars, but there isn't much choice out there.

Fit the harder sway bars. For my ten cents worth it makes the car much nicer to drive if there is a good balance between stiffness in terms of spring rates & stiffness in terms of anti roll.

In and of itself, it isn't. But you have to separate balance (ie understeer/oversteer) from overall grip. Front wheel drive cars (& GT-R's for that matter) have a poor weight distribution with the front end carrying 60% of the weight. Now all else being equal (it isn't, but lets pretend) the front tyres won't generate as much grip as the rears. So you need to kill some rear grip to balance the car. In the case of a front wheel drive car as long as you have sufficient rear grip who really cares if the inside rear is off the ground? It isn't doing anything after all.... The problem with the GT-R is that running a stiff anti roll bar, while it is fine for balance (Needed in fact) it hurts your traction off the corner because you can then buzz the inside rear on power down. As for transient (ie damper) issues - these are different from steady state spring (& rollbar) issues. But you mate is right - low speed bump does have an effect, particularly on turn in.

I forgot to list some bloke called Glenn Seton. Geoff Brabham won Le Mans with Peugoet in 91 & did alot of racing in the US. Gary Brabham won the F3000 championship in 1989. Don't go the blood nuts, Baron. They can really angry really quickly.... They used to have an award in the Can Am series. It was for Polish drivers. It was the Polish Pole Position Pole. Unsuprisingly the trophy was a, um, pole. By the way did anyone wathc the reply of the '78 Australian Grand Prix on ABC 2 on Sunday? The laps by Fangio in the old Merc & Brabham in the BT were just gold.

You have to differentiate between traction in a straight line (ie drag racing) & traction on a corner exit. When both springs are in equal amounts of compression the anti roll bar has ZERO effect. It does nothing. It is only when the left & right springs are in different amounts of compression (Or rebound) that the anti roll bar works. What it does is transfer load from the unladen side to the laden side (ie if you are turning right it moves load from the right hand side tyres to the left hand side). The effect of this is to diminish the amount of grip the car has. However, there are many other factors determining tyre grip, not least camber angles & tyre temps. This is where the anti roll bars help generate grip. If you ever get to see a front wheel drive hatch on a circuit (eg a VW Golf is a classic example) you will often see that they run sufficiently stiff rear anti roll bars to completely pick up the inside rear tyre.

Go for an AU Falcon. What you are describing is what they are designed for. They are much better than a Commode for towing not least because they have a live rear axle. They are dead cheap because no one wants them. They are pretty economical too. 10K will get it done.

A 1990 model has the same oil pump drive as an 89. They are fine unless you habitually launch the car from 6000rpm+. Then they tend to break. They were revised in about 93. There is no actual difference in the oil delivery between the two pumps. You will hear a synchro graunch as much as feel it. It feels like two gears grinding against each other, which oddly enough, it is. You will still probably get it in gear.

Which Brabham - there are three of them, Geoff, Gary & David. Also Brock (& for that matter Jones) are resapectively a step child & adopted. I forgot to add the Davison family, although the latest generation seems to be doing quite well. Steven Richards disproves the rule, also. For next year I would put my house on the Finnish bloke. Don't mean Rosberg, either.

I think what he was saying was that Senna in a Williams in 94 & 95 would have been a much better proposition than Hill & others in the same car. To which you would have to concede he has a point. Also, Senna would have retired after equalling some bloke called Fangio in the number of championships. Atleast according to Nigel Roebuck he would have. Whether or not Senna would have beaten Schumacher is another issue & one not worth the argument. So nobody start anything & we will all get along fine.

The viscosity listed for the Penzoil is in fact quite viscous (ie thick). You should be ok as long as you didn't suffer any oil surge. But change it out anyway & look for bits of metal which will indicate bearing failure or similar.

Well there are alot of second generation drivers around at the moment. Rosberg. Senna. Piquet. Scheckter. Locally: Jones. Johnson. Moffat. Plus alot more. Guess some of them must have some talent. I mean, the statistical probability means that atleast one of 'em could drive out of sight on a dark night. Surely. Ok, maybe not.

Gees, Baron. You been on the angry pills today already?

You did put the shims in the rear steering rack, didn't you?

I would suggest changing the oil & filter again. When you have the old oil take a GOOD look at both it & the contents of the filter. If there are any shiney bits in it you have damaged your motor. If not, go and buy a lottery ticket. And, yeah, use a different (lower viscosity) oil.

The 91 McLaren was ok. It did score well in the first three races (Senna won them all from memory). No one really believed him when he started bitching about the car immediately after winning one of the races but sure enough the Williams came on strong in the second half of the season & he was proven right. The common belief was that Honda made a mistake in going to the V12 from the V10. The Renault V10 for much of 91 & for all of 92 was a far better motor.