djr81

What colour do you mean by discoloured? A blue tinge on the rotors doesn't mean much. Check the thermo paint - you will probably find that all three have gone off which is indicative of fairly high temps. What I found happened to my front rotors was they developed fine cracks which looked to me to be around the grain boundaries of the metal. These aren't pretty, but keep an eye on them. Also, if you are running 4000 series rotors, it pays to inspect the small return grooves from the outer circumference of the rotor as these tend to be the first to instigate cracks. Check the back as well. 5000 series will save you some unsprung weight & lessen heat transfer to the hub, but are little different in terms of the rotor itself.

Um, was there another Chinese GP that was on last weekend that I missed?

Do they actually get a choice of inters? I thought it was restricted to only one type?

I am speculating to an extent in that the awful lap speed Alonso showed after his first stop was from a handling imbalance (Grippy front and or rears & no grip at the other end) rather than from a lack of outright grip. If it was an imbalance four new tyres would have fixed it. If it was a simple case of not being able to get the new tyres up to temp (bit like Kubica couldn't, although he was on slicks) then four new tyres wouldn't have helped. Ferrari lucked into the win. More a case of Renault losing it than them winning it. Alonso only finished 3 seconds behind at the end.

I think he finally snapped because for the second time in three races the pit crew has cost him a win. First Hungary with the rear wheel going AWOL & then China with the wrong tyre choice (Changing fronts only) & then the messed up pit stop. Critically Alonso could have won if only one of those two things happened, but not both. Still the speed the thing showed was killing the Ferrari. Hope he didn;t hurt the engine too much in those final laps. I hope Alonso wins the world championship. I would hate to see Ferrari receive yet another trophy tainted by their dodgy ways. Nice work by Webber too, btw. Two spins & he still managed to score a point. Jensen Button was only 30 seconds up the road in fourth. Hmmm.

1 Can the standard front rotors on a 33 GTST S2 be put on the rear(In the event that I get DBA 4000 Slotted Front Rotors) No, they will be different sizes. The 4000 series (IMHO) are not worth the extra money, least of all if you are just driving on the road. Just get the slotted street ones. 2 Is Motul dot 6 appropiate with standard brake lines or is it too acidic or whatever the term is and how many bottles are needed for a complete flush If you are thinking of the RBF600 fluid, it isn't dot 6 fluid. It is Dot 4 fluid with a 600 degree boiling point. It is fine in Skylines. You need 1L. 3 What pads to people use on Front and Rear and why (Cost isn't an issue coz I wanna be able to stop and I don't go on the track but I do alot of hills driving) I use Ferodo DS2500's because they work well from cold & still work when hot. The do get noisy when they get hot, however. 4 How often should brake fluid be flushed How long is a piece of string? It depends on what you do with it. I get mine changed every other track day as I find the pedal getting soft otherwise. But if you are only on the road, you need do it far less frequently.

So that would price the silver paint at, what, about $130? Got the Noltec bushes delivered. For once they cost less than listed price. $120 ish with postage. For the record they feel harder than the Whiteline bushes, despite all the palaver on the Noltec site.

Sometimes you need two kits to bring the things back into alignment. Also, make sure your ride height is correct as the back end camber is particularly sensitive to changes in height.

so get some of these...

You need the plugs that match the air flow meters & then youneed to splice them into the rest of the cars wiring.

How could you forget big Darryl Eastlake "Oh gees the emotion is written all over his helmet etc etc etc" In fact the whole channel 9 coverage was great. Alan Jones would rock & up not having even bothered to learn how to pronounce the names of whichever buy drivers Minardi was running that week. Darryl eastlake would chime in with useful offerings like "When you go off & hit the grass you actually accelerate." Ahhh, happy days. Tyrrell used to have PIAA as a major sponsor, which was obvious enough. Club angle was somewhat more obscure. Would you believe a Japanese manufacturer of underwear? Now that is product placement.

On the upside someone has taken over from Tyrrell as the rightful place for really obscure Japanese sponsors to call home. Never understood why Zent didn't back the Toyota F1 team, they used to sponsor their Le Mans efforts....

Nice work Baron. Love the Super Aguri Logo on the sleeves.

http://www.simmonswheel.com.au/range.html# The FR19 can be had in various offsets & with a number of different coloured centres.

As often as not it will crack the paint adjacent to where the guard is rolled.

To be fair, F1 is basically a soap opera for blokes.

If you are suffering from too much rear brake bias the cheapest short term fix is either a higher coefficient of friction pad on the front or a lower one on the rear. Nothing like doing the job properly, however....

Oil surge will happen if you don't have enough oil in the sump. So over fill it. You don't need a baffle. Stock one should outlast the rest of the engine. Stories about N1 pumps only surface when the install is done incorrectly, don;t worry about it. Also, when you get back to the pits leave the motor on with the bonnet up & let it idle for a few minutes - this keeps things circulating & will help cool it all down.

So have you got any good photos of the Grice/Percy GTS-R that they campaigned in Europe in 1988? I only have ever seen a couple of small ones. As an aside if you do a compare & contrast of the front spoiler of that thing with Freddie Gibson's GTS-R you will see that someone wasn't playing by the rules......

I had a look last night. They are grade 8.8. And, yeah, sorry I meant fine or coarse not UNF or UNC as like you say that is the imperial equivalent. Real men use Whitworth.

If that is all it is the job is very easy. Just pull the one out of the other side & take it to a proper fastener store (Not Bunnings). They will sell you something like an M12x25 & a M12x50 machine bolt probably in either a UNC or a UNF thread. Should be a grade 8.8 or better. Anyway the blokes at the shop will be able to tell from the markings on the bolt. This will cost you all of $5 to get sorted.

Yeah, well I reckon the coolest car was the 81 XD from DJR. Was the sport sedan any relation to the Whitackers Peanut Slab Group A Sierra the used to turn up at Bathurst with Gianfranco Brancatelli (or something similar) Best turbo change story I have heard was from the 88 race when the Jones/Shiel Starion needed a new turbo which the mechanics did DURING the race. Faaark.

I doubt you would get a sheet load of people wanting them. They don't do anything other than repalce the standard ones & are non adjustable. The Whiteline gear is adjustable & for most uses appears to be fine. I am looking for a set, however...

The model would be great, but effectively the Whiteline kit makes the arm a fixed length - just shorter. I think what it needs it a slight twist in it so that the caster induced load in compression that occurs on the upper link bushes is reduced. But without the model that is just supposition....

For the group C fans, try this: Group C had to die - there was FAR too much dodgy shit going on & far too many arguments. Peripheral port anyone?