djr81

They are the symptoms of an air leak in the induction system. So have a look between the turbo outlets and the inlet manifold on the engine for a loose/busted hose.

The front mount is the pretty aluminium thing you can see under/behind the number plate. FMIC = front mount intercooler. Is it manual or auto?

Hundreds perhaps. Those who post a dyno chart of such a combination notsomuch.

Its dead easy to fix so just fix it first. Most importantly post your dyno results after it is tuned. I know a bloke who wants to see the -5 poncam combination with a functioning boost controller on 98 octane. What are you running for boost control?

Yes same same and yes but you need to plug in stuff to hook it up to your laptop with the right software.

Doesn't have extra airflow at idle, will have less. Go back and check for air leaks between the engine and the turbos. Mostly, have a fiddle with the cold air idle valve which is under the intake plenum. The Poncams will reduce the amount of air at idle and you need to increase it a little which is effectively how closed the bypass valve is when warm. Guessing Poncam B's?

Found these on the interweb the other day. May be a good thing. Has anyone got them or know of an equivalent ie aluminium castor rod, preferably with bushes. https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-motorsports-r32-adjustable-tension-rods-p-8629.html?osCsid=0992fo6icmpfcgfhi1ootb6j71

Pardon my ignorance but if it is a 2 rotor pump cant you just pull the vanes out of the rear rotor and job done?

They are marketed as road and track but warranted only for road. The best answer to this is either Dixcel or Project Mu.

From McLaren themselves or from somewhere else?

In the olden days a puff of smoke on over run and on startup for that matter was valve stem seals.

I vaguely recall a bloody great big solenoid block or similar near the engine oil filter somewhere? Or am I just misunderemembering?

Nismo Saurus. https://racemagazine.com.au/cars/issue-43-off-to-the-printers#more-13289

The other things you (may) like to consider is all the pumping and pressure lines that serve the HICAS. You can just loop the thing and render it inoperable or you can do it properly and remove them. Also worth doing or atleast considering is replacing the standard power steering cooler with a small but decent cooler.

Well them and the rest. Ferrari are the closest to challenging MB but they aren't close. RB is stuffed and will have to run Ferrari engines next year as MB told them to sod off. Williams don't have the money to improve their car quickly enough. Lotus are going broke and are waiting on a Renault buy out which is their only chance. The less said about McLaren the better. Sauber have no money. Force it India have a bit more than Sauber but not enough to be competitive. Torro Rosso will never amount to anything. Manor will be lucky to be around in two years time. Oh and Britney cant get anywhere near Hamilton. So its all going well then. Best thing about the Monza telecast was the BRM from 1971.

This. Bucket loads of this.

Dont put an old stock balancer on a new engine.

A hot pressure between 30 and 35 pounds is where you would want to be. Question: Can you fit a GTR mechanical centre to the replace the viscous stuff in the GTST diff or do you have to replace the whole diff? The point being a GTR centre may be a cheaper way of fixing it than buying a Nismo part. You can buy new shims from Nissan to tighten the GTR diff up.

Err don't think that number is correct. In metric units its kg/mm which is usually a number between 3 and 10 at the top end (Which is still hard) or 20 for an insanely stiff spring. For imperial it is pounds per inch which is metric x 55, so a 5kg/mm spring is 275lb.

You should be aiming for a hot running pressure not a cold set. RE55's from memory like a number in the low 30's hot. If you have hard springs and soft anti roll bars you need to get some new sway bars and check what your springs are. When you say back off the rear springs by 10mm do you mean ride height or preload?

Problem with softening the rear bar is it will induce more understeer which an S chassis with an RB will have in abundance.

Well trying some throttle control could be a start. Diffs wear out. The viscous type (Which you may well have) aren't great for track work. But yeah a mechanical will sort your issue or atleast get both wheels spinning. Just don't get too aggressive an LSD they are just plain annoying and don't do anything for the handling. The other thing to note is the corner exits at Collie are bumpy due to the track degrading over the years. Depending on how hard your spring rates are you may well struggle for traction irrespective of your LSD type. So what coilovers do you have?

Fingers crossed Renault and Honda have found something although the Mclarens sucked in practice. Again. Britneys 200mph tyre blowout would have got his attention.

The blowby that gets sucked out of the head by the turbo (As opposed to the drivers side which goes into the engine on over run) goes to the rear turbo. This is almost certainly what you are seeing. Usually it ends up dripping out of the bovs. Even the crack pipe priced Nismo catch can doesn't stop it from happening.

Allegedly the fixed the MGU-H overheating issues which then allows everything else work properly. Be good to see them have half a result.