djr81

That is the stupidest shit ive read today Yeah, but it is only early....

Too true. The main difference between an ECU that runs solely on the MAP sensor & one that uses the MAF (Actually Power FC uses a combination of MAF & MAP, so this is a fairly gross over simplification on my part) is that getting an engine to run well at idle & low TPS measurements is much easier using airflow meters than manifold pressure. The tune should get done quicker & be cheaper. An amazingly inept comment. Can you name a PNP ECU that will run both the motor & the auto trannie? Not the Power FC, but then no one with any sense would recommend and ECU install like that simply because it will destroy your transmission in pretty short order. People can also quite easily run data loggers, ensure that they are not running too much ignition advance use the peak/hold function on the display etc etc etc. Unless you are continuously modding your engine, you should only need a tune done once. Get it done properly. There is nothing inherently wrong with the Wolf.

You will most probably find you have to leave it with someone as when I needed mine done exchange master cylinders couldn't be found (last year sometime). Perth Brake Parts may be a good start.

Careful, it is not swing arm IRS. More like semi trailing arm IRS from memory.

ATTESSA takes input from rpm as well as wheel speed differentials as well as gees. Sit still, blip the throttle & you should see the gauge move. Means you get some front wheel drive action immediately on clutch dump...

Yeah, about that order. Depends on what kind of steel & its alloying content.

Coating was applied to the turbo dump pipe. Unsure what you mean about the direction of flow of the gas (right to left if that is what you are wondering) Have a look at the temperature of the flange metal. It is below the temperature of the RHS of the pipe, ie the dump pipe. Makes what you are saying impossible. WARNING: Science content (oh shit) For a two layered ie coating + metal system the steady state one dimensional heat equation looks like this: Q = (T0 - T2) ---------------------------- (delta X1/(k1A)) + (delta X2/k2A)) Where: Q = heat flow T0 is the internal temperature T2 is the external temperature Delta x1 & delta x2 is the thickness of the metal and the ceramic. k1 is the thermal conductivity of the internal metal and/or coating (whichever way around you arrange it, measured in W/mK k2 is the thermal conductivity of the external metal and/or coating (whichever way around you arrange it, measured in W/mK A is the surface area. For the anoraks this is simply an externion of Fourier's law. Salient points are: Doesn't matter if the coating is internal or external. For an individual layer the two fundamentally important variables are the k value, ie the thermal conductivity of the material & the thickness of the layer delta X. This is why I have made the point that with the thicknesses typically applied, the coating doesn't have any real chance of insulating the pipe. My old textbook (Janna) puts asbestos at 0.113W/mK and glass fibre at 0.035 which are two of the best insulators, although you can't use asbestos anymore for good reasons. To anyone using the heat wrap tape, please note the following: DON"T BREATH IT IN, PARTICULARLY AFTER IT HAS BEEN HEATED. You have been warned.

What I am saying is that in the thickness typically applied the product does not demonstrate any sustantial heat insulating properties. I have explained the photo & reasons for my opinion. However, in light of your eloquent reply I am at a loss to further explain anything.

Thanks, I enjoyed that immensely. :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: Infact I believe the expression is ROFLMAO or similar. Have a search for infra red thermometers. Look at the instructions. You will find that they DO NOT work on anything other than matt black surfaces... The coating was sold as heat insulation. Good insulators do not change their coefficient of thermal conductivity much with changes in temperature. My contention is that the coating is not effective, not because of anyshortcomings in the characteristics of the ceramic, but simply that the applied thicknesses are insufficient to create any meaningful resistance to the conductivity of the pipe.

Brakes are really hard to do unless you drive the car, but anyway. There are some possibilities: You have glazed the pads. You haven't got them hot enough, ie not bedded them in as yet. The heat paint should permanently change colour, from memory they all go white (although the middle one may go yellow, can't remember)

How many would you like? Five, ten, fifty, a hundred? The stuff claims to be a good insulator. The degree of temperature difference over the short length of pipe shows that the coating doesn't work. Why? The claim for the coating is that it is a good insulator. Dumping that amount of heat in that short a pipe shows that it is not effective. Why? The reason the stuff doesn't work is because of the thickness applied, not because of the properties of the ceramic. Assuming the coating is homogeneous (If it isn't it will delaminate & fall off) the number of coats is irrelevant. Ofcourse insulating thickness plays a part. We use 100, 150 & 200mm in heat insulating refractory bricks & castable refractory on pressure vessels & tanks etc. If we could just spray on a few thousand microns of ceramic that is what we would do - & save huge sums of money in the process. Consider this: Motherhood has been around for even longer. Motherhood has excellent child rearing benefits. I raise the two points because they are about as relevant... Good luck finding a supplier of this stuff that can provide good scientific facts, or any for that matter. You might want to ask what the coefficient of thermal conductivity is. Glass fibre is about 0.035W/mK. This ceramic stuff would have to be orders of magnitude better to work as advertised.

Yeah, but only a bit. You don't want to end up like the street class over in WA which is now a rotary benefit. That & I am sick of seeing old series 1/2 RX7's being trotted out in classes that are ostensibly about modern cars...

Absolutely. The image shows the ceramic coating makes next to no difference. Thermo wrap tape is actually effective. Ugly, messy, but effective.

The logic is fine. The gradient is slightly different at the LHS because the pipe is not straight (it is an exhaust pipe after all) What you see in the photo in terms of the slight difference is merely a result of a different (larger) amount of pipe being projected onto the same amount of graph x-axis. Perhaps I should have made this clearer rather than allow people to misinterpret the photo. For the coating to have any real effect the gradient needs to be SUBSTANTIALLY different, ie much flatter. Which it isn't. There are two things to consider: 1. To take your example of the pipe being hotter by 40 degrees at the RHS and the same temp at the LHS. An effective insulator would have the high temperature at the motor end maintained across the length of the exhaust pipe and show up as a flat gradient. 2. An effective insulator (applied internally to the pipe as in this case) will reduce the outside temperature of the pipe. You would then expect a step change in external pipe temperature in areas where the coating is not present, ie a hot spot. We get these at work when refractory fails on some of our pressure vessels & reactors (Not nuclear so calm down). Clearly the photo shows it not happening here. You don't need a before and after photo (although you could do it that way if you didn't mind the tedium). You just need to properly interpret what you have.

A ban on all rotaries...

Well I am saying that the coating applied in this case didn't work. I think you are getting a little bit confused between the temperature gradient on the photo and the percieved difference in a like for like test with a coated and an uncoated dump pipe. What the (Linear) gradient demonstates is that the same amount of heat is being lost per unit length of pipe in both the coated and uncoated sections. That being so the only conclusion is that the ceramic coating is having no effect on the heat loss from the pipe ie it is not working as an effective insulator. You don't actually need a before and after test to prove the point....

At the risk of starting WW3.... The 'guy" in question is a mate of mine, a bloke that I happened to sit next to for four years whilst studying mechanical engineering at uni. I say this only to pre-empt any claims that the photo is some random down load from the net. The photo shows the dump pipe on a turbo charged 12A rotary. The photo is of the surface of the pipe. The discontinuity is the flange on the exhaust. The section downstream of the flange is uncoated. The comment attached to the photo is correct, ie the coating, if working, should substantially lower the surface temperature of the pipe on the sections that have been coated. Clearly it hasn't and it follows that the coating is not having any measureable effect.

The point I was making was that when you buy a GT28-60 707160-5 and when you actually receive the turbo from Garrett the tag on the turbo is stamped with 25-60. That is what the photos show - both mine & Ronin 09's.

There is another way. You can take an infra red photgraph of the exhaust manifold section that has been coated. If (& only if) the coating works you will see a significantly lower temperature on the exhaust manifold section that is coated. If it doesn't work you won;t see any real difference between the coated & uncoated sections. Do a search - you should find it.

The finned diff/non finned diff does not relate to whether an R32 is a v-spec or not. It simply relates to how late a model year it is. The later ones don't have fins...

Garrett stamp them as 25-60's & use 28-60 as the reference in their literature. They are the same turbo. If you need turbos for track work the motors torque curve above 4000rpm is the only section of any real interest as revs shouldn't drop below this on the track. See mark up of the attached dyno chart. Note that I am not sure of the middle torque curve (ie don;t know what car it is off), but the other two are my car (Stock R32R at 13#) & Pete's (28-60's + bling). Someone with a GT-SS curve may want to further mark the thing up by way of comparison......

33GT-R rims on a gun metal car look good. R32 GT-R rims on anything look good. TE37's in just about any colour look tough. BBS LM are good.

Seriously bloke, you need to have bit of a think about what you are saying. Have you ever been to Hyperdrive, or seen their dyno? Do you even know what type it is? Or do you just assume that it is all broken and wrong because it doesn't match your preconceived notions. Do a search and you may even find the Pete's dyno chart. You may (If you know what you are looking at) be pleasantly surprised by the linearity of the power curve. As for 25-30's well, old school tech is just that - old school. Turbo charger sizing is not the be all and end all in determining their response.

Start with some proper pads & fresh brake fluid (Dot 4-600). The discs aren't the problem unless they are under thickness, warped or grooved. Ducting is a good idea. So is one of those Cusco brake stoppers as the R32 firewall flexes an unnerving amount under load. Depending on how hard you mash the brakes, the braided brake lines aren't a necessity. They may make the pedal feel harder, but don't help you stop better to any real degree unless you are boiling the brake fluid which you shouldn't be.

An R32 is a proper Group A homologation special. An R34 GT-T is, by comparison, a hairdressers car. That is my opinion, but having owned 3 R32 GT-R's you could say I am a little biased.