djr81

Nah because there shouldn't be much difference in pressure between the sump and valve cover. Certainly not as much as between the sump and the catch can. I would expect it to pump oil into the catch can every now and then which is why I wouldn't do it that way.

Valve cover not much. Catch can I wouldn't. You don't want to put oil between the blowby and its escape to atmosphere. Essentially this is what goes on in the head and you don't want to replicate it in the sump extension. Above the oil line yes, below no.

I'll take the 911. Again.

Not many people run them. When I was buying rings I was offered them but didn't take it up because I wasn't familiar enough. THey promise to offer very little blow by which would be a huge gain for an RB26. Pacific Engine Parts are fans of them. Give them a ring 03 9737 0717

What do you mean by reverse staggered? Tomei (For want of a different option) offer the following: Poncam A :260 inlet and 252 exhaust at 9.15mm lift. Poncam B: 260 inlet and 260 exhaust at 9.15mm lift. I have a 256 inlet and a 252 exhaust. Upgrade option on the inlet side appear to be to go an extra 4 degrees and more lift picking one of 9.15, 10.25 and 10.80. On the exhaust side the increments are in four degrees also although I didn’t look at the lift. Inlet 256 degree 9.25mm lift. Opens TDC. Closes 41 degrees ABDC. For 221 degrees duration at 50 thou valve lift. Inlet 260 degrees 9.15mm lift. Opens 1 degree ATDC. Closes 43 degrees ABDC. For 222 degrees duration at 50 thou valve lift. Inlet 260 degrees 10.25 lift. Opens TDC. Closes 43 degrees ABDC for 223 degrees duration at 50 thou valve lift. Inlet 260 degrees 10.80 lift. Opens 1 degree BTDC. Closes 41 degrees ABDC for 222 degrees duration at 50 thou valve lift. Exhaust 252 degrees 9.15mm lift. Opens 42 degrees BBDC. Closes 8 degrees BTDC for 214 degrees duration at 50 thou valve lift. Exhaust 256 degrees 9.25mm lift. Opens 46 degrees BBDC. Closes 7 degrees BTDC for 219 degrees duration at 50 thou valve lift. Exhaust 260 degrees 9.15mm lift. Opens 47 degrees BBDC. Closes 3 degrees BTDC for 224 degrees duration at 50 thou valve lift.

Probably a bunch of unhelpful suggestions get posted.Looked on the rb26 dyno thread there are two -5 poncam posts neither of which have printouts. Thinking my old chart may have been with a stuffed boost controller so cannot gauge the response from personal experience.

By bigger I mean mostly on the inlet side with maybe 260 or 264 degrees. Boost doesn't tail off so I suspect there is enough exhaust cam in it.

With the boost controller fixed it now makes boost low in the range - so the number at 4000rpm is 270rwhp (With -5's so beat that with a stick) instead of 200. The tuna said it was fairly insensitive to ignition advance and had phased the cams as best he could. Given the torque output is more useful further up the rev range what would people recommend for bigger cams? It has a 256 degree inlet and 252 degree exhaust.

Do the head clearance around the cam lobes for when you get bored and want to put big lift cams in.

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/manuals/pdf/piston.pdf See page 13 - .05mm to .055mm

Simply that the Ikeya arms are a good thing if you want adjustable suspension components. Short of that just rebush it (Either with adjustable bushes or not) and replace whatever arms you want to be able to adjust.

Race magazine?

Car ran to 435 (I think) with checked then adjusted cam centres. Will pick it up tomorrow. So wasnt that.

No but if my memory serves me correctly you need a stubby spanner.

The way to fix it is to get the system to basically ignore lateral accelerations like the Ruzik system does. Works much better then.

Click to the more reply option bottom right. Then upload the images.

No. It is a Poncam A exhaust cam, 252 degrees. Inlet was ordered off their list.

Well Ill ask him on the weekend but it is such a balls ache being messed about by Perth tunas that I am happy given the local bloke a go. He knows his stuff just doesnt get so many 26's. 10 hp aint going to get me near Simons things output plus he has all the gearboxes anyway. If I can gear near 500 that will be a pretty good result. Working on the assumption the cam timing has shifted since it was tuned.

Yeah all the cool kids run four or more degrees at the front. Reckon the Japanese use massive spring rates because they don't run so much neg camber. Looks funky but then it is next to impossible getting the right offset rims.

Why some much at the rear fatz? Appears to understeer in the correct GTr manner then get snappy when you touch the throttle. Less neg on the rear be a better set up?

Dunno is all standard Nissan back there.

Hope not and hope so at the same time. May just be the cam gear bolts have come loose. Appears to be a bit of a theme lately. Top nut on the drop link on the front sway bar unwound itself and the link fell out of its hole. Hello oversteer. Anyway cars goes crackle crackle pop pop on the over run.

Did some quick plotting of boost and power curves from past runs with the engine. Anyway this thing looks to be hugely more responsive in the low end - which may very well point at cam timing gone awry.

Problem being I don't. The last two have been a waste of time and money. Think I will give the local bloke a go. He is all good, just that there aren't many GT-R's around here and I wanted to short cut the learning process by having someone who has done 100 of them do the job. Cold start is about the only thing that is fine. So a win there.

I never said that at all. The point is that Perth tuners are a 2.5 hour drive from home and then I need a bus ride to get home. So there is the best part of a full day gone and its repeated to collect the car. Two days off work costs me $2k before I start with the mechanics bill. Plus the favours I need to get the thing dropped off/picked up etc. The last time it was tuned it was supposedly done properly by a supposedly good workshop in Perth but they couldn't diagnose a stuffed boost control solenoid and gave it back to me with low boost and 409rwhp on a hub dyno. The time before that with a different Perth workshop was even more of a train wreck. I fixed the boost controlelr and the purpose of getting run up on a local dyno was to check it over on the assumption it was otherwise ok, not to tune it. But it made four more horsepower for four more pounds boost. Dyno disparities aside that isn't exactly winning. Its got adjustable cam gears but I always viewed them as a nice to have for a few more hp, not a 20% gain. Nor do I really expect to find 80hp from some more ignition timing. Hence the thread asking for likely candidates. For now it is: Pull the exhaust and have a look. Put it back on the dyno with the front cover off the motor and look at the tune. But I don't have great hopes. Johnnilicite: What would you expect the timing map to look like?