djr81

Yeah I think I will have to start with the exhaust and cat and then pull the timing belt cover off it to see where the cams are at. I only asked the local bloke to stick it on the dyno and see that it was ok rather than to tune it. He didnt do the tune that is in the car, that was done in Perth and I am starting to suspect it is less than complete. He pulled a bit of fuel out and said it gained eight or so horsepower. Didnt ask about ignition as the fail was doing my head in. But 70-80hp is alot to explain away by tune or strapping it down fairly hard (his other throwaway comment) or any other thing. It makes good torque or atleast as good as it ever has just after the knee point in the curve when the boost flattens out it doesnt keep making power. The previous number was 408 hp on a hub dyno with 16lb. It has a Nismo fuel pump and the afrs are in the11's.

I know where you are going with that and the answers are tomei and dunno. So does the output show float?

Well row 18 on the PFC reads 12 12 12 12 12. 12 13 14 15 16. 16 16 16 16 16. 16 16 16 16 16. Give or take its add 2 degrees for each cell in row 17 and add 2 for each row after 18. So pretty well flat.

How hard is it to fit them and get the seats out?

Prior to the rebuild at one point it ran 450rwhp on 15lb with the same exhaust but different cams (Poncam B's which suck) Was expecting something like 480rwhp. AFR's are 11 and a bit. Doesn't drive like its lacking ignition advance. Cas was replaced 12 months ago. Injector duty is well below 100%

Well it doesn't matter so much as why the hell is it only putting out 400hp on 20lb. But: 80mm afm's. -5 turbros. PWR intercooler. 256 degree inlet cam, 252 exhaust Cleaned up head. forged internals with new crank, carillo rods. stock exhaust manifolds, ported. Tomei dumps and whatever you call the pipes after that. 3.5" exhaust. Generally stuff and done properly.

Just fixed a boost control issue and then had my car run up on a dyno. See attached. Brilliant if it was an RB20 but it is a 26. Cant even begin to explain how frustrated I am. Where should I go looking first? Current plan is to set it on fire.

Did the same. Unfortunately the tyres pull the paint off the floor and it looks shit.

But my neighbours VL doses.

Well finger boy won, MB crashed into Dan a lot and the Lotuses collected more penalties than you could poke a stick at. Good race? Not really unless you like watching ineptitude.

They are lighter.

Standard ones?

Important question will be is it a big end knock or has a turbo fallen apart?

After 5 years or so my SCR Pro front rotors on my GTR are fine. They have fine cracks in the surface of the rotors - not to be confused with massive cracks that run tot he whole depth of the rotor and which mean you have to bin them. Also if you buy the Pro series you can keep the hat and replace the rotor and save a few hundred bucks. Also DBA do not make 5000 series for R32's as afar as I can remember.

Rotang FTW. Just as long as you like noise and buying petrol and rebuilding motors.

Because the F1 drivers special relativity theory takes into consideration the age and experience of the drivers. Kimi - not as fast as he once was. Romain - faster than when he was paired with Kimi.

If you look up the manual there is supposed to be a certain amount of clearance (for want of a better word) beyond the last plate. You measure this and shim the clutch pack to suit. A worn pack will have grater than acceptable clearance - the result is that the attessa system doesn't function properly because there is not enough force on the friction plates. The system displays the output on the dash - the output of the pump basically, not the torque output - it is too stupid to realise the clutch pack is worn. End result is the gauge wont help you diagnose a worn clutch pack, only a vernier will.

Did you check the wear on the attessa clutch plates before you installed the box?

Yeah the spring steel - atleast the old school Australian AS1447 XK5155S & XK5160S have defined ranges of alloying content. As do any number of other grades down to your common or garden 250MPa yield strength mild steel. Just a matter of guessing what the bar would be made out of and matching that. Radiusing is good, haven't seen stress relief by belting It with a hammer for a long time but is a good method none the less.

Just finished the book too. Wasn't too bad for the usual ghost writing. Was his other book any good as Ausse Grit was a bit superficial.

A solid 27mm bar is 4.5kg/m. A 30/20mm bar is 3kg/m. They are thereabout the same stiffness (Hollow 5% more). So 3kg for the rear. Maybe another 2 for the front. Its all weight. Just cant find an obvious answer to the question and material testers can only do so much.

Its hollow. You find me some hollow spring steel in 30mm od and 20mm id. I don't think there is such a thing.

May be the answer here: http://mint-design.ca/2013/04/ Just wonder if the sway bar is spring steel or mild steel?

Well it depends. I have a Whiteline front which is about right and a Cusco rear (fixed) which is too stiff. Was contemplating some more neg camber for the back to grip it up but my gut feel is I have too much stiffness back there. Will pull the front bar up and see how it upsets front grip. It used to be all ok until I put some different oil in the rear diff and now it turns like the diff actually works - which means oversteer. On another topic what diameter springs do the MCA use?

Well for what it is worth I reckon the middle of the Bilstein range of springs (If that makes sense) is about the 5-6kg/mm mark front and rear. The Whiteline and equivalent spring rate is down around 3ish so the damper is a little over done in that setup. When I asked about the Bilstein damping rates from Bilstein they wanted to steer me in the direction of harder springs still. But without knowing the rest of the setup - mostly camber - it is hard to know whether they are on the money or not as harder springs compensate for less camber. Just wish I could get a decent anti roll bar - ie hollow and adjustable. They don't exist, however.