djr81

Why some much at the rear fatz? Appears to understeer in the correct GTr manner then get snappy when you touch the throttle. Less neg on the rear be a better set up?

Dunno is all standard Nissan back there.

Hope not and hope so at the same time. May just be the cam gear bolts have come loose. Appears to be a bit of a theme lately. Top nut on the drop link on the front sway bar unwound itself and the link fell out of its hole. Hello oversteer. Anyway cars goes crackle crackle pop pop on the over run.

Did some quick plotting of boost and power curves from past runs with the engine. Anyway this thing looks to be hugely more responsive in the low end - which may very well point at cam timing gone awry.

Problem being I don't. The last two have been a waste of time and money. Think I will give the local bloke a go. He is all good, just that there aren't many GT-R's around here and I wanted to short cut the learning process by having someone who has done 100 of them do the job. Cold start is about the only thing that is fine. So a win there.

I never said that at all. The point is that Perth tuners are a 2.5 hour drive from home and then I need a bus ride to get home. So there is the best part of a full day gone and its repeated to collect the car. Two days off work costs me $2k before I start with the mechanics bill. Plus the favours I need to get the thing dropped off/picked up etc. The last time it was tuned it was supposedly done properly by a supposedly good workshop in Perth but they couldn't diagnose a stuffed boost control solenoid and gave it back to me with low boost and 409rwhp on a hub dyno. The time before that with a different Perth workshop was even more of a train wreck. I fixed the boost controlelr and the purpose of getting run up on a local dyno was to check it over on the assumption it was otherwise ok, not to tune it. But it made four more horsepower for four more pounds boost. Dyno disparities aside that isn't exactly winning. Its got adjustable cam gears but I always viewed them as a nice to have for a few more hp, not a 20% gain. Nor do I really expect to find 80hp from some more ignition timing. Hence the thread asking for likely candidates. For now it is: Pull the exhaust and have a look. Put it back on the dyno with the front cover off the motor and look at the tune. But I don't have great hopes. Johnnilicite: What would you expect the timing map to look like?

Yeah I think I will have to start with the exhaust and cat and then pull the timing belt cover off it to see where the cams are at. I only asked the local bloke to stick it on the dyno and see that it was ok rather than to tune it. He didnt do the tune that is in the car, that was done in Perth and I am starting to suspect it is less than complete. He pulled a bit of fuel out and said it gained eight or so horsepower. Didnt ask about ignition as the fail was doing my head in. But 70-80hp is alot to explain away by tune or strapping it down fairly hard (his other throwaway comment) or any other thing. It makes good torque or atleast as good as it ever has just after the knee point in the curve when the boost flattens out it doesnt keep making power. The previous number was 408 hp on a hub dyno with 16lb. It has a Nismo fuel pump and the afrs are in the11's.

I know where you are going with that and the answers are tomei and dunno. So does the output show float?

Well row 18 on the PFC reads 12 12 12 12 12. 12 13 14 15 16. 16 16 16 16 16. 16 16 16 16 16. Give or take its add 2 degrees for each cell in row 17 and add 2 for each row after 18. So pretty well flat.

How hard is it to fit them and get the seats out?

Prior to the rebuild at one point it ran 450rwhp on 15lb with the same exhaust but different cams (Poncam B's which suck) Was expecting something like 480rwhp. AFR's are 11 and a bit. Doesn't drive like its lacking ignition advance. Cas was replaced 12 months ago. Injector duty is well below 100%

Well it doesn't matter so much as why the hell is it only putting out 400hp on 20lb. But: 80mm afm's. -5 turbros. PWR intercooler. 256 degree inlet cam, 252 exhaust Cleaned up head. forged internals with new crank, carillo rods. stock exhaust manifolds, ported. Tomei dumps and whatever you call the pipes after that. 3.5" exhaust. Generally stuff and done properly.

Just fixed a boost control issue and then had my car run up on a dyno. See attached. Brilliant if it was an RB20 but it is a 26. Cant even begin to explain how frustrated I am. Where should I go looking first? Current plan is to set it on fire.

Did the same. Unfortunately the tyres pull the paint off the floor and it looks shit.

But my neighbours VL doses.

Well finger boy won, MB crashed into Dan a lot and the Lotuses collected more penalties than you could poke a stick at. Good race? Not really unless you like watching ineptitude.

They are lighter.

Standard ones?

Important question will be is it a big end knock or has a turbo fallen apart?

After 5 years or so my SCR Pro front rotors on my GTR are fine. They have fine cracks in the surface of the rotors - not to be confused with massive cracks that run tot he whole depth of the rotor and which mean you have to bin them. Also if you buy the Pro series you can keep the hat and replace the rotor and save a few hundred bucks. Also DBA do not make 5000 series for R32's as afar as I can remember.

Rotang FTW. Just as long as you like noise and buying petrol and rebuilding motors.

Because the F1 drivers special relativity theory takes into consideration the age and experience of the drivers. Kimi - not as fast as he once was. Romain - faster than when he was paired with Kimi.

If you look up the manual there is supposed to be a certain amount of clearance (for want of a better word) beyond the last plate. You measure this and shim the clutch pack to suit. A worn pack will have grater than acceptable clearance - the result is that the attessa system doesn't function properly because there is not enough force on the friction plates. The system displays the output on the dash - the output of the pump basically, not the torque output - it is too stupid to realise the clutch pack is worn. End result is the gauge wont help you diagnose a worn clutch pack, only a vernier will.

Did you check the wear on the attessa clutch plates before you installed the box?

Yeah the spring steel - atleast the old school Australian AS1447 XK5155S & XK5160S have defined ranges of alloying content. As do any number of other grades down to your common or garden 250MPa yield strength mild steel. Just a matter of guessing what the bar would be made out of and matching that. Radiusing is good, haven't seen stress relief by belting It with a hammer for a long time but is a good method none the less.