djr81

Build it like a cyclone. https://www.google.com.au/search?q=cyclone+oil+air+separator&safe=active&sa=X&biw=1600&bih=719&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&ei=iZNSVYb-NMi3oQTsvICYAQ&ved=0CDQQsAQ

Suggestions. Use a fairly blunt drill bit. Different returns may need different size bits - I cant remember one of the rear ones gets awful close to the spring seat. Clean, clean and clean it afterwards. Don't bother with the Mines baffles. Put some dash fittings in the sump for breathing/oil returns.

Pretty dull race. Other than Ferrari screwing Tool around there wasn't anything much to keep anyone awake. Sucks to be McLaren Will take more than a new paint job to get some actual speed out of that thing. As for Torro Rosso....... went well in Quali but was hopeless there after. Anyway mostly a race of screw ups rather than anything to impress. Britney will be pleased with his weekend but I cant think of anyone else who will be happy.

Good. Like Car SOS. Like Skylines. Also like Pop Will Eat Itself.

Depends on how long it is sitting around waiting for parts. As the N1 is still fine for a road driven car I would just pay the money and get on with life. But each top their own.

It gets hot where I live too (Western Australia). I run an N1 pump and have never had an issue with my GTR overheating in traffic or idling at the track or at any other time. The N1 works fine. Just get one and save yourself the messing about trying to find a stock one. Also - a general comment - save yourself endless frustration by ignoring keyboardists who cant differentiate between something being different and something being inadequate. Sometimes different is just different.

N1 is fine.

Do this. Will make the diff stfu.

Rather than a monthly thread why don't we go with one for 2015. Here are a couple to start with.

Not totally convinced by the electric front/petrol rear drive - what happens when you want moar horsepowers? But that aside nice job. Does anyone know the weight of the thing? Wonder what it means for the next gtr? Hybrid too?

Look drive the car and if the clutch is fine then it is fine. No need to replace something if it is working. Its not a WRX/Emo so the clutch isn't the weak point. The attessa clutches are a known wear point. They are shimmed to give a certain clearance and when the clutch plates wear the shimming goes out of tolerance. You then get a slow to react system or one that doesn't work. Unfortunately the only ways to work this out is to pull it apart and measure it - or based on experience to make a judgement on the working of the system. Difficult if you've not driven one before. RB26's can make stupid power even on standard internals. Leave the Nissan in it and do the support mods to your preferred hp. By which I mean ECU, afms or MAP (take your pick), injectors/fuel pump, turbos/exhaust. Will make 400rwhp happily with that lot and with room to spare too.

Since your new I will have a go at answering your questions - but be aware that these have been asked (And answered) many, many times on SAU. A google search will turn them up with ease.. Anyway. 1. It is not the horsepower but the boost level that your turbos will survive. Typically 1 bar is all you should use. What it reads on the dyno depends on the dyno but 300rwhp is a rough number. 2. Depends on the turbo. A trite answer I know but it really depends on the turbo. Check the forced induction section for any number of engine/turbo/fuel combinations. Also look up 707160-7 and 707160-9. 3. There is an enormous number of things that can go wrong - and probably will. Bushes, belts, clutches (Attessa more so than the one you are thinking of), window seals, rear wiper, oil pumps.... Get it up on a hoist and looked at. 4. Bilstein shocks, new springs, sway bars, new bushes and front end neg camber. Have fun.

Track evolution in Malaysia is pretty big apparently. So don't read too much into early runs. The only right place is MB. Or maybe Ferrari if your career is over and you want to pick up a big cheque. Funny how much people are talking about driveability. Wonder how much the off track programming and timing of the harvesting etc is affecting lap times. Hate to think the outcome of a race would be influenced unduly by engine mapping based on circuit modelling done on the other side of the world. Then again its F1 so why should that be any different.

These ones. http://www.isccoilovers.com.au/coilover-spare-parts Get the ones with the rubber bushes front and rear but you have to ask them for the front ones as they aren't listed. But read this first to understand you need a couple of other bits to make them fit your Bilsteins - plus they work with 65mm springs not the Kings. If you want to retain the King springs you may need something different. Not sure what that would be. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374385-bilstein-coilover-conversion/page-1

Looks like the Lotus has some pace too.

No. Time for some new strut tops to allow the reinstatement of shock travel.

What do you mean again? Have you had it done recently?

2 or a little less would be fine and shouldn't cause the sorts of issues seen on that tyre. Which is why I asked about toe settings and also suspect they may have been run underinflated.

How much camber is too much. I mean I run over four degrees so I assume your number is smaller. So how much is it? Also why do you assume it is camber and not toe? Lastly, jack it up, pull the wheel off and take a photo of the top arm. Preferably one that is larger than 8k. People then may be able to help out with an adjustment recommendation.

Something not quite right with that statement. Not sure what. Does anyone know if Bottas is ok?

Stop do this: "When I finally start it up, I let it idle for 5-8 minutes" Just get in the thing and drive it. Cold idling engines don't last longer than ones looked after properly by driving them gently after a start, it just seems that way to everyone around you who will get pissed off listening to the terrible RB26 idle for 5 - 8 minutes. If you are letting it sit for a month at a time go and get a solar panel battery trickle charger and hook it up to the car. This will keep the voltages etc up and you may well have the problem fixed. A question: When the clock sparks up is the time correct?

Cusco rear. Whiteline front. If you go up on the front stiffness you can then ditch it and go Cusco both ends.

Can get odds on Fernando being down to 2 engines by FP3?

You mean DNS & P17.

The problem with it all is the different manufacturers use different tube/rod – some are hollow, some (Whiteline) are solid and none quote the same figures for comparison purposes. I haven’t yet seen anyone quote an inside diameter – not for the standard type or the aftermarket stuff either. You can make some guesses (I haven’t seen spring steel in tube) as to the wall thickness but they are just guesses. Anyway here is what I can find. Standard Front 20mm od - hollow. Rear 25.4mm Nismo Front 22.2 od (hollow) and quoted at 18.1N/mm whatever that means. Read 27.2 od (hollow) and quoted at 113.9N/mm Cusco Front 24mm and 190% stiffer than standard. I take this to mean 1.9 times the standard rate but may be 2.9. 1.9 appears more likely. Rear 30mm and 162% stiffer than standard. There also may (MAY) be a 24mm adjustable front (Part number quoted 282 311AJ24) and a 28mm non adjustable rear 282 311 B28 (quoted at 185% compare to standard). These I have never seen. Whiteline Front 22mm solid bar. Rear 24mm solid bar. Both are adjustable. Extra stiffness is not stated. ARC Front No diameter shown but 2.4 x standard rate. Adjustable. Rear No diameter shown but 1.8 x standard rate. Adjustable. Also $$$$’s. Maybe someone else has some figures or an idea or what tube would be used – the Cusco appears to be metric in size, the other Japanese Imperial. FWIW I have a Cusco rear and a Whiteline front. Can always add front stiffness in if the rear is too much.