djr81

The newer car will almost always be better, whatever better is. But just buy whatever your heart tells you to, it is not a rational decision after all. Cars dont cost anything to modify if you dont modify them. Hell I am currently looking for an XE Falcon and I can promise you it is not because I think they are a good car. Or a fast car. Or a safe car. Or because they come with a good warranty. Or are easy to maintain/modify. I just want some L Jetronic drag plate air flow meter goodness in my life.

The man speaks the truth. The best way to own a GTR or even an Emo is to have it as a second car. Why? Because when it is broken you can get to work. When it is being upgraded/worked on you can get to work. When you are at work it is not stuck in a carpark and generally deteriorating from UV/panel dings/ whatever else happens when youa rent looking. You wont put a million miles on the the clock (Guessing you didnt search for GTR's with 200,000kms+ on the odometer - no one does) Insurance is serious money for such a car and they will be delighted (or not) to hear about the modifications you have made. Cops are far less likely to pull over an AU Falcon than an R32. So go buy a daily you can stomach and hate that. So when you get to drive your GTR/Emo it will be because you want to. It will probably work out cheaper anyway.

Just get the Emo.

http://gtr-registry.com/en-bcnr33-vin-table.php#OptionCodes

Dent in the sill is probably where someone has jacked it up in the wrong place. Not that it matters R32 jacking points are soft as shite and usually collapse anyway. You may want to have a think about a bit of reinforcement in that area.

Yeah thanks. That was plan B.

Just after the case the R32 ecu comes in. So if you have a dead ecu that is fine - even preferred. The R32 version has brackets on it as per the one below. Other models have different brackets.

What are you after? EFI stuff or wiring looms/plugs or just parts? Or has another FIFO nugget abandoned their R33 in park F?

It is unlikely that the absence of a hub ring is causing the vibration. More likely it will be either a tyre out of balance or related to the wheel bearing (Although thats less likely). Diameter should be 66.1 on the car and the same on the rim or if it isnt you will probably find that it is 73.1mm. As has been said, take the wheel off and measure it. To answer your original question the name of the ring that goes around the hub is hub ring. EG: https://au.gktech.com/hub-centric-rings-pair

Guessing it is on the sill near the trailing edge of the door?

Yeah it all boils down to government revenue and a trade off between rego/fuel price/road tolls. So here in WA we get bent over for rego ($800PA for an old Skyline and bugger all historic licensing), fuel is ok in the city and there arent any toll roads. Main problem being there are few outlets for E85 in Perth and sod all outside the metro areas.

Yes but to be fair the furthest you can drive in the UK is what, ten miles? Because the whole of the UK is smaller than Tasmania. So there's that.

Thanks for the offer but with the price of these things and the postage I figured it was better to tidy up what I had. Some new globes and it is much better.

It looks sufficiently warped and or distorted to be genuine. Most of them end up stuffed which is why people go for a reproduction part.

Fitting the 105mm intercooler is not necessarily straight forward from memory you have to cut/trim/remove things. Dont know what the stocker runs out at but its a decent number.

1. In the absence of a larger capacity sump the Tomei baffle is worth having. I ran one on the track for years whilst over filling the sump. 2. Well your set up will either be more suited to E85 or petrol. So if you need to run both then yes you need something other than a power FC. Its much easier to find hp with E85. There are now much better ecus than APexi's 1990 version. 3. Just spend alot of time on ring selection, block preparation/blowby and work out how you are going to run the thing in from the moment it starts up. Oh and no one has said dont waste your money on that intercooler. Also valve springs have you got some? Head gasket?

Coincidently my RB26 started popping I/C hoses and generally being ugly. Same disease. A half torn passenger side engine mount. Looks like it is not uncommon. The tear was where the rubber was glued to the steel - Nismo item too.

Twin turbo pipe or is that what you are calling the crossover pipe?

Well just to finish this off both the mode door actuator and the blend door are now fixed and the Humphrey B Bear is blowing cold.

As above. I am in Western Australia so would need it posted.

Quality mullet. For my ten cents worth if you have the skills fix the head gasket and then sell the car. Of the other things if you can bleed the clutch and get it to work then do that. Same for the power steer, if its an easy fix then fix it.

The only one I have ever seen is the Nismo afm chart. Are there MAF tables in Nistune for those you can use to find an equivalent?

https://www.rycofilters.com.au/Search/SearchResult?make=NISSAN&model=STAGEA&year=2003&liter=

No N1's arent. If you want stock twin bolt up style turbros (And not a single) Garrett do some good work. Have a look at the Garret range 2860's. 707160-7, 707160-9, 707160-5 in order from small to large. By way of random shops. https://justjap.com/garrett-gt2860r-7-twin-turbo-kit-nissan-skyline-gtr.html https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-074&Category_Code=RB26 https://justjap.com/garrett-gt2860r-5-twin-turbo-kit-nissan-skyline-gtr.html

Best bet is find the leak and if, in the unlikely event, it is the line and not something else repalce it with a stock part. But is likely to be a washer or thread.