djr81

I used to have the same. Batteries die when they stay low on charge. Easiest fix was to go down to supercheapauto (or similar) and get a solar panel trickle charge thingo. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/SCA-1-5W-Solar-Trickle-Charger.aspx?pid=292829#Recommendations Problem solved.

If it is bouncing a lot then the shocks are not controlling the body motion. If it is bottoming the chance are you have too much low. If you had Bilstein before then why not get more of the same. Find yourself a spring rate you are happy with for front & rear, check with Bilstein that its in the range of the shock, buy the bits you need to put 10" Eibach 65mm springs on the dampers and that is done. Sway bars need to match the spring rates. Problem being they all quote different numbers. But look at Nismo if they are available at reasonable dollars. Also Cusco but they tend to be well hard. I hate rose joints and bracing as most of the stuff sold is useless. There is nothing wrong and a lot right with decent bushes. Don't guess that stuff is flogged. Get it up on a hoist and look.

I think when you talk about forged internals you really just mean a rebuilt motor. Yeah sure most people use forged pistons as they are cheap these days but for 300kW there is nothing wrong with Nissans pistons. In fact their ring package has much to recommend itself. Anyway old story: Buy a nice one. If it has a rebuilt motor, good. If it doesnt thats fine too. But buy the car, not the spec.

Hear Marussia may be on for a comeback but not Caterham. Heard very little of Williams pace in testing only cars you wouldn't expect being quick. By which I mean Ferrari. And Sauber.

List is a bit random. You have, for example, an expensive brake pad with a cheap rotor. I would, randomly, recommend: A 2 piece front rotor, Dixcel or Project Mu. A pad of similar capability to the Ferodo DS2500 for the front and a similar friction coefficient for the rear but not a DS2500 at the rear as it promotes rotor wear when cold. Get some neg camber for the front suspension. Get some anti roll bars. Standard mounts are fine at that hp but Nismo is ok too if you are replacing them. Ohlins are expensive for what you get. "Solid" suspension just about anything is a wank and an annoyance on a road car. They just make the car go clunk and not much else.

http://www.mclarenstore.com/stores/mclaren/products/product_details.aspx?pid=145869 Compared to http://www.mclarenstore.com/stores/mclaren/products/product_details.aspx?pid=157682 Also not happy to miss the M6B shirts. Only XS left. NFI why they used Donohue's car rather than Bruce's M6A.

Seats & steering wheel?

Just like last years then. Still, atleast they have gone away from dayglo orange shirts. Shame about not having any sponsors. Paint the car orange you worthless fkrs.

Found with A050's. Limiter bash. Sidestep clutch. Bog engine. Chug away. Swear. Repeat. Also they don't appear to mind being cold.

Please clarify what you want photos of.

Yes, was my fault. This be them. Happy to see they are September last year manufacture, always a concern when buying cheap from the net.

Never going to happen. When Bernie gets into trouble he creates a diversion. So he invents some bullshit proposal to get people talking about to divert attention from his issues. So 1000hp proposal. Question is what is he trying to make people look away from. Oh yeah, teams going broke.

Renault are claiming the have reduced the hp gap down to 30 from 60. GLWS.

Hmm, not sure either of those things are any of those things.

One of these will probably wreck your life. Surprisingly it isn't the GTR.

These turned up yesterday. Pretty good for old rims. Just have to work out if I want to spend more on making them bling. Would they be painted or powder coated?

Bought some KU36's yesterday. 255/40/17 for $205 each. Would have preferred something else but couldn't argue with the price.

No fluid doesn't cause pads to squeal. Easiest way to try & fix it is to take the car for a drive and use the brakes alot to get them hot.

Genius. He said for road use. Last time I checked there wasn't a great need for degassing pads when you drive down to the shops. So yeah go pay more money for stuff you don't need that will wear the brake pads out that bit faster. If you are getting them for cheap then just get them for cheap and don't worry too much about it. The major cause of them needing replacement is failure ie cracks, warping etc. Which is usually because people use on tracks something that isn't meant to be used on tracks. Says so on the box. Not for motorsport use. For some reason people are willing to pay more money to use them on the road where the extra stuff has no benefit. Genius.

The reality is for street use it doesn't matter. Use whatever you like. You shouldn't be using them hard enough to cause cracking issues. A common or garden variety plain disc is cheap and looks after the pads so would be best unless you want purtiness. For track use it does matter and slotted rotors (done correctly) are what you want. Drilled are to be avoided. Solid rotors aren't as good as slotted. Slotted you need to ensure they are done right (so no slots to the edge of the rotor, proper radiused finishes etc). Then you get into hats, cooling vanes, material etc etc.

Yeah at some point someone wised up and realised what was being implemented by some scrutineers was out of line with what most people were willing to do, ie take your road car and make it unroadworthy by drilling holes in the bonnet and attaching posts and wires etc. It wasn't doing anyone any favours and for the first time in a long time CAMS did something useful. Sorry shouldn't say things like that. Love CAMS. Love people in CAMS shirts. Love to all etc.

Yeah nah. If you want BBS get some LM's. Paint them whatever colour you like.

IS the skeleton housing enough or do you need the waterproof one?

It really isn't. Spacers or wheels. Its all a straight forward choice.

Needs more single. Looks honest enough. Personally I don't like white 34's but if you do it could be a good thing. Would be worth having a look if its close to home. Not sure how much it would cost to ruin it with a single turbo, however.