djr81

This is one of the most popular threads on SAU but for my 10 cents worth it is the rings that are the issue not the rest of everything. So before building an engine please think long and hard about the rings and dont just get whatever comes with the pistons.... As an example and for those in Oz I found these folk very good: http://pacificengineparts.biz/

Best guidance is that unless you have an oil or a water leak from the existing lines save yourself the trauma of replacing them with something that wont fit anywhere near as well. Why are you replacing the lines?

The qualifying motors only had to last a lap and the race motors a couple hundred miles. At the end of the previous turbo era they had regulated the boost to be no more than 4 bar, then 2.5 bar with fuel limits. They ended up only good for 500kW or so out of 1.5 litres. The unlimited stuff of 1986 or so had phone numbers for horsepower. If you want to see how Ford (Cosworth) got it wrong there are some good books on the subject. Mostly having Duckworth etc crying about fuel and everything else including compression ratios, turbo sizes etc etc.

Dont be silly. Toluene is good for you.

Some more, minor progress. On the mode door the shaft that locates the worm wheel (the driven gear, not the drive gear) is basically 3.5mm. The next size up drill bit from that was 9/64" but that went straight through the gear. Anyway went to a 5/32" (Which is a bees dick down from 4mm) and drilled the wheel out. Remounted it and the gears now turn. So without knowing how it affects the longevity of the thing I reckon this may be the way to fix your R32 mode door actuator. Hash tag fixie fixie something hashtag. As for the mix door there looks to be a couple (Atleast) dry joints. The mix door doesn't appear to have the same material for the worm wheel either so guessing it is just solder that is the issue.

No. They attach tot he plastic clips on the b pillar.

Just buy some new trim pieces and be done with it. They arent stupidly priced.

Spent the morning pulling the mix door actuator out and replacing the mode door. Prick of a job. Mix door appear to have a couple dry joints in it but by god they are tiny. Will resolder and hope like hell it works again.

Have some 17x9 +20’s in silver if that is of any interest.

So at what point do you get a modern ECU and something like this? https://www.autosportlabs.com/product/racecapturetrack-mk2/

Change of shirt for when the ventilation system stops working again. Bag of rags to clean up the oil puked out the RB's breathers. Glue to stick the B pillar trims back together. Knife to stab the bubbles in the dashboard with. Pliers to pick up the broken turbine wheels off the turbochargers (They may still be hot). More rags to clean the back window because the wiper doesnt work any more. Can of spartan air. Your mechanic's (Now best friend) phone number.

Had a spare (dead) mode door actuator. Pulled it apart (the hard bit there are the 5 clips you have to release) and had a look. Basically one of the plastic gears (the one in red) had near on seized on the shaft. Removed the gear (and the one next to it) Gave the seized one a ream and some lube and will see if it can be bought back from the dead. Hoping the blend door is much the same.

Well that's that idea pharked then. Regarding your order 93813;Unfortunately the Nissan OEM part ordered has now been discontinued and the manufacturers are unable to supply us. Apologies for the inconveniences. Inconveniences. So many inconveniences.

Well firstly its your car so its obviously entirely up to you what you do with it. However. Rose gold or similar is redolent of a car culture that is, pretty much, the antithesis of what a GTR could be said to represent. The GTR was built to compete in touring car racing and Nissan chucked all the engineering they could at it. It wasn’t built to have chrome braid or hectik fitment rims or highly polished air filters or an overstuffed leather interior. So painting the engine bay (Nissans efforts to that end were pretty shit to be fair) rose gold sort of misses the point. By all means clean it up but your car is a pretty rare colour for a GTR. I’d urge to you respect that and paint it the same as the body. GTR’s are about engineering and not about bling. Good on you for going what must have been some pretty hard yards to get it. So enjoy what you have. Maybe rose gold for the Tarago??? (Not sure what they call them in the US)

What sort of rims are you going to put on it.....

Probably much the same reaction you would get here in Oz if you turned up to a car rally in a 78 Pontiac with a massive chook on the bonnet. Cars are cars and the more diverse you get the more interesting the things are. Guessing an R32 is an uncommon site in the US. C'mon feel the Illinoise.

Would expect all offsets that you would think of fitting to a 32 R will clear based on a google search that said a +22 clears. Search R35 18 inch brake clearance First result that comes up from GTRlife.

I beg you, do not do this.

F50's are 4 pot....

Maybe, but he does have a point. Venting blowby from the sump and not the head is a better way of doing it and doesnt require the head to be lifted. The oil puke problem is a common thing for RB's of almost any capacity. The solution is essentially the same but does vary slightly based on peoples catch can preferences. At the end of the day low blowby plus a way for the blowby to get out of the sump without going through the head is the basis of the solution, as covered in the oil control thread.

Have a look at how the Nismo can is set up. It drains back through the turbo drain. To be fair if its for the drags you dont need it to drain quickly. So the answer to your question may be not an nrv but simply a small(er) orifice because who cares if it takes 5 minutes? But yes a non return valve would work if you could find one you are happy with. You will to be a bit careful how you mount it (ie vertically of horizontally as they sometimes dont like certain positions) which could be an issue. But honestly if you are getting large amounts of oil from a single pass you should have a think about venting the sump to the can. So there you go - four answers to one question.....

Just out of interest because I have similar issues with boxes and B pillar trims - how much of a pain in the arse is fitting them and did you break any plasticky clips in doing so?

That is sort of plan B, notwithstanding I tend to fk things rather than fix them. The mode door was $120 and thats brand new so if the mix door could be had for anywhere near the same I would be well happy with that.

Rob, If you could confirm that as I cant find a mix door on RHD Japan that would help a heap.

The mode door is stuffed as I usually get stuck with air on the windscreen. The mix door is the same as no amount of fiddling gets the temperature to change. So its half preventative (On the assumption its not the head unit) and half a fix. I get sick of it not working properly and just want it fixed.