djr81

Maybe, but he does have a point. Venting blowby from the sump and not the head is a better way of doing it and doesnt require the head to be lifted. The oil puke problem is a common thing for RB's of almost any capacity. The solution is essentially the same but does vary slightly based on peoples catch can preferences. At the end of the day low blowby plus a way for the blowby to get out of the sump without going through the head is the basis of the solution, as covered in the oil control thread.

Have a look at how the Nismo can is set up. It drains back through the turbo drain. To be fair if its for the drags you dont need it to drain quickly. So the answer to your question may be not an nrv but simply a small(er) orifice because who cares if it takes 5 minutes? But yes a non return valve would work if you could find one you are happy with. You will to be a bit careful how you mount it (ie vertically of horizontally as they sometimes dont like certain positions) which could be an issue. But honestly if you are getting large amounts of oil from a single pass you should have a think about venting the sump to the can. So there you go - four answers to one question.....

Just out of interest because I have similar issues with boxes and B pillar trims - how much of a pain in the arse is fitting them and did you break any plasticky clips in doing so?

That is sort of plan B, notwithstanding I tend to fk things rather than fix them. The mode door was $120 and thats brand new so if the mix door could be had for anywhere near the same I would be well happy with that.

Rob, If you could confirm that as I cant find a mix door on RHD Japan that would help a heap.

The mode door is stuffed as I usually get stuck with air on the windscreen. The mix door is the same as no amount of fiddling gets the temperature to change. So its half preventative (On the assumption its not the head unit) and half a fix. I get sick of it not working properly and just want it fixed.

I realise this has been done before but having disappeared down the rabbit hole I am thoroughly confused. Most of the old SAU threads have busted photo bucket photos or confuse the mode door (ie where the air goes to) with the mix door (Which controls how hot it is). I have a shiney new mode door actuator (Part #27731-53E00 I believe, photo attached) off ebay in Japan for a half reasonable price. The mix door is possibly discontinued? (Part number 2773201U00). Also drawing 27733NA is used for Im not quite sure what but matches other cars. Can someone please confirm the part number is correct for an R32 GTR, are there other models with the same part and/or where I may be able to find a used one that I can fix? (Part number 2773201U00) Sorry for the dumb questions but someone out there may have done this lately. I just dont want to tear the console apart only to do half the job.

Or just cut and reuse the bit of hose with the restrictor in it along with a male/male push lock fitting of an appropriate size. Or turn up what you need from a bit of aluminium rod or similar and stuff it in the hose. Or better yet get your fab bloke to weld up and drill a hole in the end of the barbed outlet fitting on the catch can.

Yes. Out of interest what brand of separator is it?

It is a restrictor to stop the turbo sucking all the oil out of the top of the engine. It is just a plate with a hole in the middle of it. If you are splicing a catch can in there somewhere (Like a Nismo unit) then you still need it.

Kit numbers appear to go from IJK-001 to IJK-060. None of them volunteer what injectors they fit, however. You may have to speak to the supplier or their vendors (someone like Repco). IJK-028 appears to suit a number of NIssans but doesnt list RB26's. http://premierautotrade.com.au/news/fuel-injector-service-components-from-premier-auto-trade.php http://www.checkmypart.com.au/ https://www.patrap.com.au/contact.html https://www.repco.com.au/en/search?text=ijk

Well to be fair unless you are outside the 95th percentile there are better ways of spending money than arc intercoolers. Mostly keeping the stock one but if you must there are excellent I/C's at near on half the price. The difficulty (with this forum, as with others) is that it's been around for many years and in that time technology has changed hugely. There are advocates for that new tech and others who are happy mixing old and new. Those who recommend new stuff can get a bit evangelical about it all, usually with good reason. For example a big single new tech turbo will be much, much better than a set of HKS twins. Just like a new ECU will be much better than a Power FC. But at the end of the day its your car and you want what you want, and you dont really have to justify your preference to anyone. Me, I've got twins and a Power FC which is due to be replaced. Sure it would go much harder with a single but I just dont care.

It really shouldnt be terribly hard. Which airflow meter are you having problems with? Guessing the front one? Or do you have non standard pipes or non standard AFM's or...... Post up a picture so people can help you a bit more. Also a picture of your car so people can say thing like "Nice car, man", or "Neat 32, dude." Also overwhelmingly Japanese parts bolt straight up so unless you have the wrong part number etc there is usually something else going on.

Yes but.... The start point is for the clutch pack in the system to be properly shimmed (Or even upgraded). If the thing has too much clearance you wont be getting the correct amount of drive from the front wheels.

To be fair you will struggle to get a meaningful comparison. I have a torque controller but as for making a comparison with another I have absolutely no clue. FWIW the stock system on a road car is, when working properly, not a terrible thing. Guess Ill ask anyway but what are you wanting to get out of your controller? What deficiencies in the attessa system are you not enjoying? Reason for asking is there is a history of worn or inadequately bled systems causing problems.

Pardon my ignorance but how "shit" is that. We get 98 RON fuel but when originally sold in Australia there was only 95 octane which gtr's ran happily on for years. Is your 87/89/91 AKI about the same as 91/95/98 RON or do you need to be 93 or 94 to get a 98 RON equivalent?

Do you have the old ones and do they have part numbers on them?

Remove the belts driving the alternator aircon water pump etc and have another listen.

That is a solid number for 2530’s. Out of interest what cams does it/did it have?

You have doubtless been asked this any number of times but why an RB and not an LS?

Understand that the fuel pump will probably sh!t itself at some point in the future. They don’t enjoy pumping water.

Depends - do you mean car stuff or other stuff?

8000rpm.

Car should have had a clear coat when it was built. Would expect that it has been rubbed off. Look, have a crack it may not work but, really, its not like you are going to make it any worse.