djr81

No dont penalise them at all. Clearly something went wrong. They know something went wrong. They will be looking into it and, presumably, fixing it. They dont need the FIA to tell them to fix it. They dont need a fine to tell them they fkd up. They lost a tyre set I would assume and busted some componentry plus they lost track time. So what difference is a fk off big fine from the FIA going to make? None. So why do it? There is hardly an outbreak of cross threaded wheel nuts in the offing.

The possibilities are endless. The reality was absolutely banal and benign. The nut just fell off and went nowhere. The wheel stayed on. The car was going very slowly at the time. Anyone who thinks that is worth $60k is out of their tiny mind.

They fined Williams $60k because a cross threaded wheel nut fell off the car. They are out of their minds. Maybe the FIA need to spend more time coming up with a formula that works instead of the crap they endlessly serve up.

For all the castor enthusiasts (fkn drift has ALOT to answer for, this being just one thing) a stock 32 GTR runs, wait for it: Fk all camber. 3 degrees and forty minutes. Trying to run more puts the top, outer link out of alignment and if you run a rose joint castor rod you will screw the bushes once per track day. If you want more castor you need to modify the top link and the mounting point on the chassis not just wind up the rose joint as many people do. All castor is is more camber when the wheel is turned. As most GTR's are underbraked anyway you dont need the castor to pick up the camber, you can just run more camber. It is just that the drift nuggets like it as it means they can let go of their steering wheels and freed from the muppet behind the steering wheel their cars will return to travelling in a straight line. If you want a gain there are two things I would do as a first step: 1. Replace the the stock upper link mounting bracket with either a Nismo item or a stock item remanufactured to be like the Nismo geometry or run one of those top links with the bearing in the middle of it (which I dont much like but each to their own) 2. Soften the front spring. Put the pineapples in the normal position, not the traction position as the thing shouldnt oversteer on corner exit anyway. If it does push more torque toward the front with your attessa do hickey. Bottom line it is a GTR and with such awful weight distribution it will understeer. You have to drive around it and make lap speed by a late turn in and early power down rather than trying to flow the thing with bulk speed at the apex. Dont overdrive the car as that prompts plough understeer mid corner and canes your lap speed.

Can anyone recommend a good landscape lens for a FF Canon? Have down to 24mm but need something shorter and I dont want to pay $2k+ for it.

All it ever did was allow the quick cars to fk off into the middle distance. Sprint, refuel, sprint, refuel etc. The racing was hopeless. Sure fix the current tyres but dont conflate that issue with refueling being of any benefit to anyone.

Well they are limited to 100kgs which is what 140 litres? Back in the olden days before the last couple of years of the last turbo era they could carry much more. so another 20 or 30 litres to compensate shouldnt make much difference. According to the internet: 1986: Fuel tank capacity limit was lowered from 220 litres to 195 litres. 1988: Fuel tank capacity limit was lowered from 195 litres to 150 litres.

Cant understand why they havent gone to an ethanol/biofuel of some sort if they are trying to beef up their ecomentalist credentials. Too much like Indycar if they did?

Do you have a cast or stainless manifold prior to the turbo? The stainless ones warp and can cause this problem.

The grandson of Australian motorsport great Sir Jack Brabham has secured himself a drive in the support category for the IndyCar championship in the United States. Matthew Brabham was confirmed on Sunday as the pilot of the Andretti Autosport entry for next year's Indy Lights 2014, following his dominant win in this year's Pro Mazda Championship. Brabham earned the right to move up to the Indy Lights championship after winning the Pro Mazda title in emphatic style, claiming 13 race wins from 16 starts. It means the 19-year-old is just one step away from joining compatriots Will Power and Ryan Briscoe in America's premier open-wheel motorsports championship. Advertisement "I'm really excited to be moving into Indy Lights next year," Brabham said. "I remember seeing the Indy Lights cars for the first time in St Petersburg when I was racing USF2000 there last year. I was blown away by how quick they were and how cool they sounded. "It's going to be a fun year, and I'm very pleased to be on board with Andretti Autosport for a second year."

They are, in summary: None. But I didnt look very hard an I am not very observant. Maybe someone can point me in the right direction?

Standard block versus N1. Standard N1

Doesnt mean anything much Roy. If you drag the smoking wreck of a busted pos of a car home in 20th instead of retiring it you can shift the numbers by one in just one race. The are 3 vs 5 DNFs off the back of 13 races. So JEV has only 8 finishes, Disco 10. A 20th for JEV would make his number worse than Dan's. Also it is hard to "out race" your team mate when they have retired. Singapore, for example, was a bad race for Ricciardo. He stuck it in the wall from 15th position or thereabouts which helped his numbers.

Really? I thought people only used those pads because they were cheap. Guess I was wrong and need to find another reason why people would want to use them.

Why do you want it to happen. Where do you expect Williams to get money from in his absence?

Solution appears to be pretty obvious. Use a different brake pad.

You want a rough surface for the paint to stick to. It mechanically adheres to the concrete it doesnt react with it. So clean it, degrease it and etch it with either the proper etching stuff or if you know what you are doing and are careful (fkn careful) acid.

You can run whatever hat/rotor combination you like but Troys point is that the replacement cost of the rotor (or hat and rotor) is one of the big considerations in its selection. By using a part from a certain vehicle (eg R35) you are getting a component that will be made by a number of different manufacturers which will help keep the price down. Eg Project Mu 324x30 hatted rotor is thereabout of a grand. The 345x32 is double that. The other cost consideration is the price of a pad. same story there. Buy an orphan pattern and you will get screwed every time you need pads. Yes a dogbone and a radial mount are, essentially the same thing. A radial mount uses bolts that align radially to bolt up the calliper, a dogbone has locating bolts at 90 degrees to that - hence the same as it looks a bit like a dogbone. You need to find a machine shop and give them some drawings. I have tried and utterly failed to find someone for this sort of thing. But this is a one off cost, not a recurring one.

Ah ok. Was trying to find something between an RE55 (too hard) and an A050 (fun, quick but too soft). Maybe Bridgestone will get their act together and replace the RE55 one of these days.

I suspect they will go the way of a lot of other teams with not enough sponsorship and no factory support, like errr, Lotus back when it was actually Lotus. Also like Williams. And Brabham. And Jordon. And now McLaren if Honda dont get their sht together this time around. Owners get tired of footing massive bills with no prospect of A: Winning or B:Breaking even. Or they just can no longer afford it.

Yokie AD08R's. Anyone know anything about them?

Not really, no. I have the two lock nut type but they can be a bitch to get off and sometimes a bitch to get enough torque on them to tighten properly. The other type there is a bit of a worry about hurting the thread. But ultimately I dont suppose it matter much either way.

I'm not sure what spring rates or lengths to use yet. As far as the spring lengths go, I figure I'll get the shocks all assembled then work out how long they need to be. For length your choice with an Eibach spring is either 8" or 10". 10 for the back easy, 10 for the front if you can. Both may need the extra groove put onto the shock body to accomodate them. Would suggest 10" all round but the front ride height may be a problem so get the grooves put under the existing ones (down aways too). How long is your sleeve? Based on what other people have used, and the fact that the BNR34 is heavier, I'm guessing 325 lb/inch front and 275 lb/inch rear? And will these spring rates work OK with the Bilstein shocks or will I need to have them re-valved? 6kg/mm & 5kg/mm are reasonable numbers. Bilsteins will be fine in this range. You would be surprised how large a srping variation they can accomodate. For the bump stops, where do I get them from so I can cut to suit the block height? And is 30mm about the right measurement to avoid block height occurring? Stock bump stops are good if you have them. You have to try before you can get them to length. This is a pain but has to be done. And excuse my ignorance, but what fixes the sleeve to the shock? I see mention of having to have grooves machined in the shock body to accept a circlip but I can't picture how this works. If you have a look at the other thread the photo in post 12 shows the circlip in the top groove. Tiny circlip is tiny but is trappped by the bottom of the sleeve.

Webber is looking after his own interests. Just like every driver in the field. It isnt Webber that makes Tool look like a tool. Tool is a tool. It is evident even without taking Webbers interests into consideration. This. He aint stupid. He knows what he is in for. He also knows this is his big chance. Which he has worked for years to get.