djr81

Best value is probably a low end Canon SLR with a crop sensor. 700D or similar with 2 lenses in a kit. You could probably get the older model (600D) very cheap. Just look to see if the difference in price is worth the extra coin.

OK thanks. $20 should get an entire VL Commodore or an R31 so how hard can it be? Will go see local knucklehead wrecker.

It isnt flawed. It just needs to fit properly like any other machined component. So measure things before you put them together.

Cheers Ben. Engine is out so may aswell be done while it is in a million bits. Can I get the fitting from Repco or do I need a second hand part?

I understand (vaguely) that it is possible to remove the oil heater/cooler that sits behind the oil filter on an Rb26 with parts from an RB20 (I think). Has anyone here done it, and what parts do I need?

You reckon FPR will actually finish?

Tough pick. Hardly. Whincup. Lowndes. Tander.

Where did you get the Samco joiners from?

I reckon $20 for a stolen and recovered 89 spec GMG GTR. Not a cent more.

Second half of the race is better than the first. Not seen the film but I here it is almost as good as Driven? Winning.

Nah he did really good. Unlike anyone in a Force it India.

Probably not quite as good as you would hope but an improvement, certainly. Also your boy teh Hulk done good.

My drain returns to the level of the oil in the sump - so the check valves helps stop oil surge under cornering.

It usually leaks out of the BOV's and no you dont usually get it happening on the dyno, only the track because that is where you get sustained high rpm/high loads and g forces to go with it. The oil recirculates back through the intake system so you will have an intercooler full of oil and from there it leaks out of the blow off valves. The problem, as has been described on this thread is caused by a combination of engine blow by and small holes in the head of the motor for oil return. Simply put once load comes on the motor the oil wont return from the head as the blow by and the small cross sectional area prevents it from doing so. Add in gee forces and you get an oil puking mess like so many others. The fix is as described previously: Good blow by control. Oil restrictor. Open up the drainage holes in the head. Vent the sump to a catch can. Which is an engine out job. RB's have had this problem since they were first built. The stock cast iron rings are good enough to prevent most of it until an engine gets old/powered up but unfortunately most of the forged piston ring sets do not take into account this particular RB idiosyncrasy. IF you want some decent rings talk to Pacific Engine Parts in Melbourne. See earlier.

Hmm just need to transfer Webbers luck onto ze German and things will be sweet. Mind you that needed to be done four years ago. Anyway damn fine drive by Kimi & teh Hulk. Not so much by Di Resta or Grosjean. You have to wonder about F1 though. Dan in the pre race interview talking about losing weight for next year and Hulkenberg struggling to get a drive on account of being an impossibly heavy 70kg. FFS it isnt a horse race. Why is it so hard to make a regulation so that someone larger than a jockey can compete?

The thing about how the world works these days is as soon as someone invents something someone else produces a reproduction at a cheaper price. http://www.gktech.com/index.php/r32-r33-r34-gtr-roll-center-adjusters.html

If it is just for the road I would reckon something about 5kg/mm is of the right order. Yes alot of sh!t was written by people who dont know what they were talking about. The %'s are right but the rest is nonsense. You need to differentiate between what happens when you are off or on the throttle. Off throttle the things understeer. On power they respond to however you have set up the 4WD system.

Yes on GTR's the Nissan/Nismo stuff is softer at the front than the rear other than the R32 Nismo which is the other way around. Most of the other aftermarket gear isnt because they usually dont much bother with tailoring their gear to individual cars or realise that most people drive the things in a straight line anyway where you do want softer rears. Nismo S tune: 5300S-RSR45 Nissan - Skyline GT-R - BNR34 - F:6.0 R:6.7 It is that way to help reduce understeer. Ofcourse depending on your objective/tyres/camber/sway bar/attessa/power output you may choose differently. But generally GTR's are, handling wise, horrible understeering shtboxes and you end up using every trick in the book to try and make the nose heavy buckets turn.

The Ferraris looked awful in practice. All corner exit oversteer and not even Fernando could drag that shit around well enough. Red bull and MB on the other hand looked well sorted.

Much the same response as I get then. Hoping Williams can bolt together something that actually works next year. Cant remember a case in recent history when a team went backwards so quickly in the space of a season. Well other than McLaren maybe. Bottas brings in coin and the team think well of him. Not sure they can say that of Massa. Hell they gave Barichello the arse because of Sennas dollars so why sign Massa?

Contact with McLaren. To do what? Organise a tour of the museum? Admittedly now they have signed up a Mexican sponsor than can dump Perez but why would you replace him with the only bloke in the whole field who is less capable????

You have to beat your team mate. Perez is forgotten because Button is quicker than him. And Button is past his best so it doesnt reflect well on Perez. You are also assuming Sauber have the funds to develop a decent car next year. Which is a courageous assumption. If he stays with Sauber and the car is a dog then what hope will he have?

Vanes are the ones on the inside that pump air. They should sweep backwards. Grooves are on the outside and remove pad dust etc. It doesnt matter which way they go. You orientate the rotor for the vanes, not the grooves. As an aside the Project Mu rotors dont have proper vanes anyway so this stuff doesnt matter very much.

You should have atleast 6mm clearance. Otherwise stones (on the road)/balled up rubber (On the track) will get stuck between the rim and the calliper and you will either gouge the rim (stones) or catch the robber on fire (err, rubber).

So then it should be a 1 year contract at Lotus plus options.