djr81

Yeah track rotors die by cracking. Road rotors either warp or run out of thickness. Cant see the sense in paying twice as much for a rotor just becasue it has slots in it.

Then dont waste money on slotted rotors as they only make a difference on the track and even then not much. They do, on the other hand, do as below. Just go buy some RDA rotors. Cheap and they work just fine. Worry more about the pad than the rotor.

Well I reckon he has too but the three or four things I would start with are: Check power supply to control unit and any other oddball modified shit someone may have done be it there or elswehere. Change out control unit with a known good one. Check blend door. Check mode door. Ofcourse that is assuming the Humphrey B Bear has refrigerant in it and the compressor etc goes round.

Search mode door actuator. Also blend door. Mostly blend door.

Nah dont do that. Best idea is to get a level 2S cams license (Get your young un to do so too) and as they say in the classics take it to the track. You will learn heaps, meet good (motorsport) people and have a huge amount of fun. There may even be a Skyline club in NSW....

If you are doing valve springs etc you may want to have a think about clearancing the head for a larger lift valve. Removes the restrictions of Poncams and will give you more choices. For lift, notsomuch for duration.

If you want part numbers of the diagrams as above they arent on youtube. Go to nengun. Go the the genuine oem parts button and follow your nose. The images are higher resolution than Amayama so are easier to read.

http://www.brypar.com/product-category/prime-r/prime-r-uprights/

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/bonnet-rubber-stopper-main-r32-r33-z31-z32-z33-y61

Couple things: You dont appear to have a boost controller - not an electronic one atleast. It looks like the standard RB26 system is in place still. Stay away from rose joint suspension arms on a road car. Rubber bushes are fine. Also poly bushes are fine. Also a tiny oil cooler is more than enough for the power steer system, particularly after you have deleted HICAS.

Reads well until you get to the last line.....

Nismo clutches come with a flywheel. Also, a long time ago I had a single plate organic in an R32 GTR. It was fine. (Was used with a single mass flywheel) https://www.xtremeclutch.com.au/en/product-range/clutch-kits/stage-1

Nismo twin plate doesn’t rattle, so you wont know it is there. I have the competition version which is a bit grabby with the copper in it but the lower torque version should be better in that regard.

https://www.nengun.com/oem/group/MjU5MDI1IC0gTWZDZm1vQllNX0NmbTdCTmRrTm1iVzlDV1UxZlEyWnRiMFpNVEZSUk5VNTVNSGROUkUwIC0gUG93ZXItc3RlZXJpbmcgUGlwaW5nIDxjaGFzc2lzPg==

Has good spanners. Uses the cheap stuff so doesnt ruin his good spanners....?

There is an oil cooler for that circuit standard. You can replace it with something a little larger (Its just a finned tube) if you want.

Maybe. The Skyline headlights are rubbish. From memory you need to make changes to GTST headlights to allow them to fit a GTR grill

They look decent. What size/offset you chasing becasue the only one close is 18*9.5 +15 on a centre bore of 77mm which is the wrong one?

Guessing he is advocating N1 headlights. Personally Id stick with what you have.

Unknown sensor is for exhaust temperature - it is supposed to plug into the catalytic converter which you may not have. The resistors may relate to the type of injector you are running but usually they are on the drivers side (RHS) - sorry passengers side (RHS) of the engine. Um, near the engine. Anyway you may need to have a look for a couple things: A decent air temperature sender unit. A set of injectors and the resistor bypass thingo. As you mention Link ecu's have a read of this: https://www.nzefi.com/product/link-g4-plug-in-nissan-skyline-r32-r34-gtr/

The first number is the tyre width. The second number is the aspect ratio (ie the wall height relative tot he tyre width). The third number is the rim size it sits on (in inches). The standard tyre size will be written on a placard on the car - isually on a door frame or in the gloverbox. I think you meant 225/50/16 fitted to your car. Which is I think the standard size.

So to stop people telling you stuff you already know what have you tried?

Speedhumps can be an interesting experience when you arent expecting them... Looks like you have made a good start. If you want a tip it is bag and label everything. Also take loads of photos as you dismantle stuff.

Stay with period stuff. BBS LM's, Rays TE37's. Do not go for Rota's or hektik fitment.