djr81

The adjuster doesnt adjust anything. It is there to allow you to hold the shaft of the shock stationary while you do up the nyloc nut that holds it to the top plate.

Shaun, What sort of terminal speeds are you getting down pit straight? Richard

Dont get too worried about back brakes. As long as your bias is good they will be ok. See photo for comparison. Note that with DS2500 pads my rear rotors are wearing out simply because the pads are hard on the rotors when they are cold.

He usually recommends Bilstein non adjustables. See here for a useful discussion: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/374385-bilstein-coilover-conversion/ Depending on what you want to do affects spring rates. 5/4 kg/mm front & rear tends to be a bit soft for the track. I ended up 5.5/5 which with the attessa controller some sway bars, much -ve camber on the front and other bits works well. From what I can remember from Bilstein themselves the standard offering doesnt need revalving in that range. From Bilstein: The front shocks, if they are as per factory spec, will support a spring rate of about 10kg/mm. While the rear, again at factory spec, will support about a 6kg/mm spring.

Yeah it is an amazing revelation that a race engine under power sounds better than one just trundling down the straight. But ignoring the crap comparison the Merc does sound good.

Yes with a stock ECU. What part of - GTR's run fine on 98 Octane - is not getting through?

Fair enough putting a new McLaren livery on an old MP4 but the other teams skins are just pointless. Anyway the new one appears to be going pretty well.

When the GTR was released in Australia the highest octane petrol you could buy was 95 octane. They ran happily on that. True story. So you can actually run a stock GTR on 95 octane. Most people use 98 and they are perfectly fine with that too. Stock or modified. You dont need to mess about with octane booster. Mines ECU's are notorious and you'll not find anyone recommending them. But you dont have one so it is not a concern.

17*9 +22 was the default size for R32 R's before fitment happened. So an 18 in that size if you must. But given a +22 rim with a 255 bag tyre will scrape (depending on rear ride height and camber, obviously) I cant see how you would get a +12 in there without issues. LMGT4's look underwhelming in 17's, good in 18's. CE28's are much better in both. Both are colour sensitive, however.

Are you talking about diameter or thickness? Width doesnt mean anything on brake rotors. Wear isnt consistant across the diameter of the rotor. The new disc should be thicker than the old - that is why you buy a new disc. Bit like asking why your new tyres have more tread than your old ones. The diameters of the rotors should be the same.

Never mind the HR31. Larry Perkins will be there in a De Tomaso Pantera - and not just any Pantera. http://www.speedcafe...island-classic/

Trouble with them being they are not accurate - they read about 8% fast.

You do realise that fitting has stupid amounts of neg camber on the rear to make it fit, dont you?

You do realise that in the DVS there are no Nissans or AMG's dont you? Not sure quite what Stoner will get out of a year in the development series - their cars are fundamentally different to drive than the COTF.

Tube & fin or bar & plate? I once had an XE Falcon with a drag plate air flow meter. Just sayin, but the boys at Ford were onto all this sh!t years ago.

Screw that. They should paint their current car in orange for testing like they have done even now and then.

Anything could have happened - but probably didnt. Go through the I/C hoses thoroughly and satisfy yourself they are all as they should be. The other side effect is you will doubtless have fouled the plugs. So pull them and clean/replace as necessary.

Rather than speculating you should find out from D2 what the area is. Some manufacturers use smaller areas than Brembo do and all the balance issues come out in the wash. But find out first.

This is usually a blown hose on the intercooler. Follow from the twin turbo pipe around to the inlet manifold and check for leaks/loose pipes etc etc. The are hard to see so you may have to take the front spoiler off the car to get proper access or atleast the front undertray. What happens is when you lose a hose the AFMs read all the air which is sucked through the turbos and fuel for that amount. Unfortunately half of it goes missing and you end up with a motor than pumps black smoke and wont rev as it is running massively rich.

Do like Fatz says and get the thing wheel aligned. Also an inspection of the suspension would be a good idea also - make sure you havent got a dead shock or busted bushes or malfunctioning HICAS.

They usually leak oil out the BOV's.

Isn' t that a 33 in your avatar?

Maybe the Canon EF 28-135mm F3.5-5.6 IS USM which will work as a 45-215 on the 7D sensor and then be ok on a full body camera for next time. Then just get an EFS in 18-55 if you need the short end aswell?

If he is going OS he can claim the GST back on the local camera. You cant do that on a grey import because they overwhelmingly state dodgy values on the documentation. Just something to keep in mind. A pair of L lenses (say a 24-105 & a 70-300) is two and a bit grand. If you want big apertures the cost goes up some more. Can you fit an L lens to a 60D?

If you wanted a start point he 650 & the 60 are that. With the lens kits (get the two lenses if you are getting a kit) plus spend a little on cards, a good carry bag and maybe a spare battery. Anyway these are the kits. Basically for a grand: http://www.georges.com.au/index.php/digital-slr-cameras/canon-digital-slr-cameras/canon-eos-650d-digital-slr-camera-with-18-55mm-55-250mm-is Or for $1300 http://www.georges.com.au/index.php/digital-slr-cameras/canon-digital-slr-cameras/canon-eos-60d-dslr-camera-with-18-55mm-and-55-250mm-is The 6D & 7D are the next ones up.