djr81

Well that one does. There are only two sizes for use with the Brembo calliper at the rear and only one at the front. The larger of the two rears is the R34 V-spec II NUR N1 fkn blah size which arent common anyway.

There are several threads about this. The bolts on the Brembos are a dfferent pitch from the Nissan ones 1.5mm instead of 1.25mm. The backing plates will need trimming/removing (but be aware of the prximity of the upper outer sustension link to the rotor) and I had some new lines made up as I was not happy with the ones that came with the callipers. See this thread for other stuff: What Size Bolts Are Required For 34 Gtr Brembo's?

The falcon seat will suck teh balls in comparion to the GTR one. But a proper seat and harness is a whole other deal.

A diff cannot change a camber setting. So no, it is not true.

The Sydney Morning Herald aside when a wheel hits something hard enough it should not fracture into two or more pieces it should buckle. I have seen many buckled rims after big hits but the fractures on Rotas and similar just leave me shaking my head.

Yeah there are two bolts but the inner one is about 150mm long and fouls on assorted bits of bodywork when you try and install it. Easiest way is to loosen the bolts on the inner bracket until you can get the bolt in - on the drivers side anyway. Hard to do that on the pasenger side as the ABS gets in the way. If you have an adjustable outer bush there are two bolts to put in which are difficult to align and get started on the threads. Basically if you do the inner first the outer is a %^*@ to get in and if you do the outer first the inner is a (%*@ to install. Anyway it is quite a bit of messing about and more than just an hour of work. Then you need a wheel alignment.

Isnt the easiest answer is to find a pair of adjustable arms that can go to 4 degrees? Because I can promise you changing suspension arms just for a track day is a major pain. The bush flogging out problem is because of two reasons (mostly) The compliance in the suspension is in the castor rod. If you put rose joint rods on it you lose most of the compliance. It then gets transferred to the upper bush. Which gets trashed really quickly. The mounting points for the inside of the upper suspension arm need to be rotated - this is what you get when you buy a Nismo bracket. Also the Nismo kit gives you a longer lower arm and a shorter castor rod. Unfortunately it is $$$$$'s.

For my ten cents worth I think there is a common misunderstanding that alot of people have. Put correctly any tyre that is producing lateral grip is generating a slip angle. Also steering a car on the throttle is a common technique in just about all forms of motorsport. It is still common to see cars pointed well inboard of the apex of the corner due to the slip angles generated by front and rear tyres. Admittedly not as much as the olden days when slip angles used to be much bigger but enough. It is most pronounced in low powered categories with no downforce eg the formula vees and fords do it alot.

Tomei have an external adjustment for the bypass. So they are better in this respect to the other pumps. You need a large capacity sump to go wth it as well as the restrictor as mentioned. Then make sure the blow by is under control as at the end of the day that is what keeps the oil in the head.

You dont have any means of adjusting the front camber or the castor. So it is what it is. The camber wont be anything like 3 degrees. Castor should be 4 and a bit. As for the rear run very little neg camber, maybe a degree if you can manage that without fouling the guard. 1.5 is pretty normal. So anything in that range. A little toe in at the rear (1mm between the two wheels) and toe out at the front ( a couple mm's for the track). Sway bars will have to be adjusted in relation to the spring rates but basically soft at the front and hard at the rear. At the end of the day you need to sort the front upper suspension arm to get you some neg camber to help balance the car. The good thing about the Nismo link kit is it fixes the inner link for the upper front arm and stops the thing chewing bushes. You have really high spring rates in the car so this will limit the roll of the car. On the up side this means you can get away with less neg camber. But none the less you need to sort the front upper arms next.

Well a better question is how did Vettel not get penalised after destroying Sennas car and his race?

Charming. I was simply trying to dissuade someone (who is obviously new to all this) from committing wholesale butchery on their car for no good reason and without any proper engineering guidelines to go by. There are a raft of traps to fall into, strength and geometry issues for both the suspension components and the chassis being just the start. Oh and by the way "grip cars" do not "waste grip". The whole purpose of the exercise is to generate and then use as much grip as can be found.

Have you not seen any F1 over the past twenty years? It is how Ferrari operate. Say anything, do anything, manipulate everything. It is not sport for them anyway, it is commerce. Plain and simple.

Just be careful with pads on street cars. They MUST work from cold otherwise you will have the shittest accident in the world when you run into the back of a car at 30km/h because the pads havent warmed yet. Alot of pads (not saying this of the Project Mu ones you mentioned because I dont know) don't work worth a shit when they are cold. Also Motul make good brake fluid.

The other factor is the accuracy of the spring rate. You only need a small diameter change in the wire to make a big spring rate difference. Why not Eibach? They are as good as you will get. I have boxes of the things after trying various rates and they are all excellent. Also what length are you after?

Whomever they put in will be a pay driver. Which is not to say they wont be any good. It used to be that pay drivers were universally shite. But nowadays you dont get through the lower formula without bringing coin. That it carries on to F1 isnt a massive surprise. Hope Caterham goes ok next year. They actually appear to be half serious, unlike the other two noob teams.

Itis not like 888 have any shortage of resources. The joy of having bazillions of dollars in sponsorship is you dont have to chose between development paths. You just do all of them and see which works better.

This is all very noble but coverage of major sporting events is not aimed at people who are already interested in them. You will be watching almost inspite of how sht the coverage is. The intent is to capture as many people as possible. So the celebrities and the random "colour" talking heads will stay. To be fair the ch 10 coverage is sht and very much worse than the mess that ch 7 make of events like Bathurst or 9 do of the cricket. But it wont change anytime soon

Yes. If for no other reason than they will have someone to qualify well. Di Resta must be less than happy though.

Success is usually tied to budget. Sure there are exceptions on the down side - eg Toyota in F1, anything properly badged as a Ford in F1 (ie that wasnt a DFV), Hondas third attempt etc etc. But given how good Honda have been at engineering (historically anyway - wouldn't give you 10 cents for any of their current offerings) you have to like their chances better than Cosworth. I love Cosworth to bits but unless someone is going to stump up real cash (and why would they?) I cant see them returning to the head of the field. Anyway here is hoping someone will again built a decent turbro road car. Aside from Ford in Oz anyway.

Ap do (or did) templates that you can use to check rim clearance. They are ontheir website. But yes it should fit on a decent rim.

Such people should be taken outside and shot.

Two things: Never borrow money to purchase an "asset" that depreciates, eg a car. It s a mugs game. Second: Dont use a GTR for a daily. They are hopeless at it. Summary: Save your coin until you can afford to keep a good GTR as a second car.