djr81

Johnson only briefly had tobacco money in 1982 and at that it was only a small amount. In the early 90's Shell was the tile sponsor with support from Palmers Tubemills, Ford & Dunlop. He was one of the very few of that era to go through a top line career will almost no reliance on tobacco money. As for the V8 mob they are a business - so as much as I cant stand Cochrane & his methods you cant blame Archer capital for their ways. On the upside some circuits have/will benefit from the lobbying, Wanneroo will for example. The big winner, however, has been the team owners. Holders of the rights to enter their cars own something worth millions, whereas back in the day it wasnt worth squat. Anyway you cant blame high level motor sport for the state of club competition. The two exist in different worlds. Although I am prepared to blame Micheal Schumacher in particular and Ferrari in general for my R32 R not being competitive anymore.

Dude its the interweb. Dont worry about getting stuff wrong just shout louder. As for the other bloke - I did some research. Turns out the 91 & 92 SATCC was run in the middle of a recession with some of the smallest fields on record. Still Freddo's mob had the advantage of being backed by people selling lung cancer and a car company losing money hand over fist. Still the PR gains of calling all the other teams idiots, of suing the governing body, of calling the fans arseholes and of pouring a bucket of scorn over Holdens product whilst at the same time taking their money was brilliant. Actually that wasnt research, that is just what I can remember from watching the thing unfold at the time.

I was actually talking about the Kelly families current results, not Nissans. The only time the Kelly's were om the ball last year was when it has been wet. For what it is worth I watched the group A touring car races back in the day. They werent a patch on the rpesent day races for depth of field, quality of racing and professionalism.

Couple photos of the installed rears - just for the sake of completing the thread a little. You may want to mount the thread a little lower than shown. The shot with three dampers shows a stocker next to the one fitted with a sleeve. Other shot is the bushes for the strut tops & the plates I had made that fit above the bump stop - I didnt use the ones ISC sent.

Going off their current stats they will struggle to win anything unless it is raining. Then have a cry about it. Then take their drivers to court. Then cry some more. The thing that shits me about it (other than the "we was banned" fan boys) are people who choose to beleive that the engineers who work on the current cars are anything but world class. Just because the rules are limited doesnt mean the work they do is not excellent. But anyway - good on Nissan for having a go. Hope they alienate fewer people than last time - because last time was a PR disaster.

Installed some new springs on the weekend. See photos for sleeve info on the rear shocks. Pretty self explanatory really - the stock Bilstein with the two grooves is next to the sleeved version. Obviously the sleeve sits alot further down the shock than the two grooves would normally allow. Spring rate is 5kg/mm and they are just trapped. The underside of the spring collars is 35mm from the bottom of the thread. So if you want to run a higher rate spring or a lower ride height the it wouldnt hurt to run a lower threaded section. The extra clearance makes it easier to install the shocker as it takes a bit of fiddling/levering to get it in place. For what it was worth there is 50mm of clearance at the front between the underside of the spring seats and the bottom of the thread - and that is with the thread mounted on the top of the two grooves. Bottom line is you will need a groove for a rear 10" spring but not at the front for a 8".

The last thing that hasnt been mentioned is the bump stops. You need to work out how long they need to be and obviously they can be different from stock. The way to do it is to get the car at the ride height you need. Work out how much spring & shock travel you have left. Point being that lowering the car reduces your shock travel but not your spring travel - hence the bump stop length can/should change. You need the shock to hit the bump stop before the spring runs out of travel, but not too far before otherwise your car turns in to a pogo stick. Unfortunately it requires fitting, measuring then cutting and refitting. There is a blog/blurb (Not on SAU - out there on the inerweb) somewhere on a bloke going through the process for some teins. Be worth finding. Anyway if you can post up how you get on, did you end up needing helper springs, how much spare length etc you had on the coils & shocks, shock dyno sheets, or anything general to help people it would be good. Attached photo of chromed bushes and plates.

Well a few things will change for 2013 anyway. All teams will be getting new cars - this time with IRS & a transaxle even. So go buy a cheap Hollinger gearbox for your GTR. The point is like Roy said it is good racing and despite the noise the bogans make alot of people just accept the formula for that. Much better than the olden days when you have maybe 20 cars make up a Group A touring car race - only 10 of which were any good. I tend to support any of the drivers who had a famous motorsport type father. So Moffat, Johnson, Lowndes (yes he did), Davidson (well, one of them anyway), not so much Mr Luff and so on. Which gives me an idea - maybe the way to get on in that business is to have a famous old man?

I will email ISC for a quote on a set of front and rear non pillowball strut tops for 65mm ID springs. Im guessing you guys have already done your research and found ISC to be the easiest/cheapest place to get them? I couldnt find anyone else selling them without spherical bearings to be honest. I can get some bushes made up at work to the specs you have given on in the other thread. You may also want to replace the washer ISC provide - the one that fits under the bottom conical rubber. The Nissan item wont fit inside a 65mm spring. I got some plate & had it drilled 10mm on the ID & cut 60mm OD. Then plated for extra bling. Gives the shock bump rubber something solid to smack against. Where abouts did you guys buy your Eibach springs from? Anywhere - you can get them anywhere. Anyone know what the difference is in length of the front shock absorbers GTR vs GTst? Fully extended my GTR ones measured 517mm top to bottom.

I will have to check if the strut tops are going to be changed in the process, I haven't specifically asked for them to be replaced. Any real benefit? Yes. Definately so. The available travel without them is hopeless with 65mm springs. There is a whole thread on this somewhere. See photo showing the difference for the two tops. Obviously the bottom of the shock will be at the same point. So the remaining travel is shorter. Do you remember the spring rates you used at this length? Even if they are in kg The next size down from 8" (203mm) is 180mm. I'm not sure if the higher spring rate will compensate the 20mm free length. My rates are variously 5, 5.5kg/mm front & 4, 4.5 and 5 rear. Work out your unsprung weight per corner. Divide it by the spring rate. Then add this number to the fully compressed spring height. The difference between the result and the unloaded spring length is how much spring travel you have available. It will be a small number of the order of 50mm for the front. Note that shock travel and spring travel are two different things. Do you think I will have to run helper springs to keep them captive with that high a spring rate? No. Maybe at the front but I doubt it. Even if you do it is no big deal. Bit of a case of suck it and see. I will get hard copies and post up a scan of the cards when I get it all sorted. Cheers

On the assumption you have an aftermarket top and are not recycling the old Nissan ones. Front 8" should be fine in the front. Rear 10" should also be ok. That is what I am using on my R32 R but as you can see the spring rates are lower than yours. Typically you use a shorter spring for a higher rate. If you are worried about it get the shop to machine an extra groove into the shock body below the two you have. Do you happen to have dyno graphs for the shocks? Be very interested to see these if they are available.

See attached photo. Tyre on the left is a 255 R comp. Tyre on the right is a 235 road tyre. Reckon there is 20mm difference???? For what it is worth the 235 looks underdone on a 9" tyre.

Well said.

You do realise that model Pintara/Corsair was the biggest steaming turd of a motor car since the Morris Marina, dont you? Plus it was front wheel drive if you didnt notice. Bit hard to fit an RB at 90 degrees to the way Nissan intended it.

The best sprint & hillclimbs are in the Speed Event Series. www.speedeventseries.com The WASCC is currently running a summer hillclimb series. No Limits do a Thursday (?) night thing and can have driver training at those events. If you want driver training the WASCC periodically do exactly that. Worth keeping an eye out for. The McRae series is really good but I wouldnt recommend it for beginners as there is plenty of hard stuff to hit if you get it wrong. Also the AHG centre (RAC centre now?) have series and they are good events. Be well worth looking for. If you want cams affiliated clubs try the WASCC (Wanneroo - more expensive but you get free entry to such things as the V8's), the WACC, The Collie Motoring Group (Although I am a little unsure of what is going on there), No Limits, I think even Antilag are now Cams affiliated?

I had a look at the five R's at the last round of the SES - Wanneroo last year. There was five cars and five different catch can set ups and five differing states of engine newness. But none of them had issues - then again none of them had the big oil pumps..... Don't really know any of the cool kids over at Antilag and havent been to a no limits thing in years. Cheers for the tip I'll have a scratch around to see who may have what. Cheers. Sounds a bit like a Nismo separator plus catch can. I have the Nismo bit atleast.

Where does the head feed get its feed from?

Not that I know of. But I reckon blowby would have to be massive to get the sort of mess you see in the photo & in anycase I have no reason to think there is any worth the name. The photo was after three warm up laps & three fliers at Wroo. The motor was built with extra care verging on paranoia and run in on the dyno, then run in some more on the road. As I mentioned earlier it is fine on the dyno. Nothng coming out of the breathers. Take it to the track and there is oil in abundance. My thought is the extra time at higher rpm is allowing oil to accumulate in the head - add some cornering gees and you get a mess. Am contemplating running an N1 pump as a fix. But only if I cant nut out a better solution for the Tomei pump. I was sort of hoping someone had done track work with a name brand Japanese pump. I cant think of anyone over this way fitting that description.

Can you help me out with details of the head mods, catch cans etc for the 33?

Cant be 10 bar, surely. 150psi = over 10kg/cm2. On the gauge it reads in line with the table that Tomei provide. Which is in the range of 4 to 6 bar or call it 50 to 85 lbs. But yes a pressure drop (below what may just be possible for the three shims) could be the answer. Who/how did you get yours done?

5W50 Mobil 1 Oil pressure is basically as per the chart. Column to be read is third from the left. If anyone could help with the Japanese on the table that would be really helpfull too. For what it is worth the aftermarket pumps appear to run a couple of bar higher pressure everywhere than an N1.

Needing some help - I am trying to find someone who is running an aftermarket (not a Nismo ro Nissan) oil pump on their RB26 and who runs it regularly on a circuit. Reason being I followed the advice in the forced induction oil control for RB's thread and have an oil puking mess to deal with. The pump I am running is a Tomei one - but anything in that flow/pressure range ie Nitto, HKS , Jun etc etc is much the same. So the question is what other mods or combination of mods dealing with flow & oil/air separation in the head are people running? I have done the tiny 1.1mm restrictor (As an aside does anyone know where to get a really small one from 1mm or less?), the external drain the mines baffles, the Autech can, the Nismo can etc etc etc. Car is fine on the dyno but hopeless on the circuit. Anyway if anyone could help I would be very appreciative.

Sorry I coughed this up. The above post should read RB26. My question remains - has anyone here put an aftermarket (ie not Nissan/Nismo) pump on their RB26 and successfully run it on a circuit? If so what mods did they run with? Here is a pretty picture of some Mobil 1.

Matt, Which Reimax pump was that? My rb25 has a Tomei pump, 1.1m restrictor external drain, mines baffles, baffled sump and it is an oil puking mess. Cant do three laps without the AFMs getting covered in oil. tis fine on the dyno, however. I guess I am asking what peoples experiences with aftermarket pumps is like. Because at this point I am seriously contemplating reverting to an N1.

Actually open ends are a pain because the ends hold a little water which then bleeds orange when you drive the thing next - mostly after you wash the car. So get a closed nut if you are given a choice. Most of them are closed anyway.