djr81

How wide is the rotor in question? Most rear rotors are markedly thinner than their front counterparts and do not cool anywhere near as well.

.

I use a Power FC but its limitations are a little worrying. You may aswell use Nistune with that setup. The Power FC has had its day anyway.

Yeah that is the one. Not sure which month it is Troy - other than to say it is on the shelves at the newsagents.

In the current issure of Car Magazine (It has the new small Range Rover on the cover, Pommie mag) there is a really good interview with Freddie Gibson about the R32 & GMS. Some of the stuff he says is pretty interesting - much different from the usual interview or stuff you read in Auto Fiction, sorry Auto Action. He tips a bucket on the car and on the Japanese. Well worth the $12.

The Nismo LCA I bought for my R32 GTR were the same casting as the stock units. The drill hole on the outside of the arm was moved slightly (5mm) to make the effective length of the arm a little longer. End result is a little more neg camber.

Stuff that. Bowl spin, hit boundaries, sink piss. Worked for Warnie. Bowling Shane......

Correct. They are exclusively made up of people with beards.

Both. They only do one piece rears. I have two piece fronts.

But are you aware that 28% of all statistics are made up?

My experience of DBA 4000s is based on having owned two sets of them. They were slotted, not cross drilled. Both sets cracked. Fronts, rears didnt matter. It was not like only one out of four rotors cracked. I changed to Project Mu rotors and haven't had a problem since. It probably depends on what they are used for and how hard they get used. Also they may have improved in the last few years. But I cant see why I should recommend them to anyone nor reward DBA with any further custom.

Weather? Whether? How far up the inside the overtaking car needs to be is the most boring argument in motorsport. As for the percentage question it is exactly zero.

All this conveniently ignores the fact that the Renault was massively more competitive in the first half of the season than the second. Heidfeld wouldnt have been dumped if he was doing the job. He wasnt so Renault moved on.

For me - I have a grudge aagainst 4000 series DBA rotors based on them cracking. If it is just for street why buy them - get something cheaper. If it is going to be used ont he track get something better. Dont try & get half pregnant.

From memory the stone guards (Which is what they are) are a press fit onto the hub? Not sure you can just replace them. Most people cut them - either just a trim as necessary depending on which end of the car you are talking about or remove them completely. As far as bolts are concerned. R33 Brembos use 12mm, 34's 14mm. The thread pitch is different 1.5mm for Brembo as opposed to 1.25 for the Sumitomo calliper.

Yeah just ignore the fact that Herbert had vastly more information to hand than DC. Not that it mattered anyway. Massa has another bollard off the track he was forced to go and smash his suspension on. Guessing that was Hamiltons fault to. Massa is, in a way, lucky that Hamilton keeps running into him. Serves to divert attention from his profoundly ordinary performance all year.

Joe, just to let you know I fitted mine up and yes it fits an R32 GTR nicely.

This from Cams SCHEDULE B – BONNET RESTRAINTS The Board noted the recommendation of the Australian Sport & Club Development Commission that within Schedule B for road registered cars, a standard two stage fastener would be appropriate in speed events such as supersprints and hillclimbs and the regulations have been updated to provide clarification. It is common practice for many competitors in speed events to fit a retention device under the bonnet, this type of fastening will be specifically provided for and may be used in speed events for non-road registered vehicles instead of the requirements for race meetings. These changes and clarifications are designed to encourage participation in these predominantly club level events and will be implemented in the 2012 CAMS Manual of Motor Sport.

Installed the 8" springs on the weekend. Photo below is of the old damper rubbers - or what was left of them after taking the full weight of the car for a number of kms. So if you have this set up ie standard tops & a spring cap under the shock rubber dont be surprised if your ride height keeps disappearing. Unmangled rubber is next to the two stuffed ones. Anyway as regards to spring selection the 8" fits fine. The 10" I wouldnt recommend if you want a low ride height. If you cut the extra grooves into the damper body then you will be fine with a 10". The threaded section is approx 120mm long. Bump stops are dependent on ride height. I reused the stocker but it is probably a bit short to be honest. Made up a 55mm od 3mm plate to sit above the bump rubber and below the strut top which appears to work well. Koni make nice bump rubbers but not sure who else do. Anyway I highly recommend all this - worth the effort. As an aside to get the bump stop length correct you need to install everything then measure how much shock travel is left - compare it to the remaining spring travel and then trim the rubber to suit. So the stuff I needed/used on the front: Bilstein shock B46-1471 (or 1472 either or one is front one is rear from memory) 8" Eibach spring 0800-250-275 (8'/200mm long spring, 2.5"/65mm ID, 275lb in/5.1kg mm spring rate) ISC rubber top mount. 120mm long threaded section. Spring perch. Spring lock nut. Machined up parts were a new smaller id bush for the strut top to suit the 10mm section on the Bilstein shock and a plate to sit on top of the bump rubber as the washer supplied by ISC looked a little small for what I wanted.

Nah and Im not either. Just trying to point out you shouldnt confuse PR bullsht with reliable engineering. There is much more to an engine install in an F1 car than horsepowers on a dyno. Honda had to learn that. Ron Tauranac showed TWR (of all people) that with the Yamaha in the Arrows. Not that it needed proving but the Renault motor has also proved it over the last few years. If you want to see a good motor have a look at some of the massive aluminium Chevs McLaren used in the M8's and later. Or the Repco motors in the Brabhams. And yes I am an MRD/Ralt fanboy.

The point wasnt really whether or not the motor somehow once or even twice hung together for the length of a GP. Really McLaren went from belting everyone with a Honda motor to being thereabouts competitive with a second string Ford to being hopeless with the Pug. It got worse in the first year with the Merc - even the fat boy special they made for Mansell was hopeless.

Mugen was founded by Soichirio Hondas son. They damn near won a WDC in the Jordan with Frentzen of all people. Yes kiddies. They started with all sort sof oddball stuff. Got good with the DFV's, spent huge amount of TAG money to get Porsche to build the V6 motors from 83 - 87, then went Honda, Ford, Peugeot, Merc. Bollocks I say. Everyone was down on the Ford motor. But the packaging advantages and the massive torque made up for the hp deficit. Not that it was ever what the French made it out to be. In any case the engine McLaren ran was to an older spec than the one in the Benetton. True story.

The Luke Youlden Understeer of fail award. The Quade Cooper Award for services to New Zealand sport. The Sebastian Bourdais award for the biggest fkwit who happens to share his name with another fkwit. The Graeme Bailey award for best transformation from chicken choker to legend. The Niki Lauda award for best flamage. Oh and can I enter my Chev Corvair if the fitment is aggressive enough?

Shown attached are the front & rear shocks with 8" and 10" springs and the ISC strut tops on them. Not 100% sure which will fit best prior to actually putting them on the car, however it looks like the for the fronts an 8" spring is the go & a 10" for the rears. Obviously it depends a bit on the spring rate - the higher the rate the shorter the spring you will want and also on the ride height. The 5kg/mm front is not brilliant for travel so I will try & get a 10" spring in there. Should fit (just) but any higher on the rate and you would go for an 8" anyway.

Why do you want to remove the harmonic balancer to replace the cam gears? He said gears and that was all he asked about. Other stuff is a different story and yes fan & radiator out but if he only wants the cam gears done he doesnt need to dismantle half the engine.