djr81

Sorry to go off topic but can anyone confirm the pcv thread size and type?

No worries. Just didnt want to allow the town to get slaped.

As a long time resident of Bunbury I have to protest at its good name being dragged into whatever this thread is about.

Just get a small solar panel to keep the battery charged and a regulator if you are paranoid. Assuming you get some actual sun every now and then it works a treat. For all of $50.

https://www.allenandunwin.com/browse/books/general-books/sport/Race-Across-the-World-John-Smailes-9781760632533

Does this help? https://www.rayswheels.co.jp/products/parts.php?lang=en&r=0&f=3

So you need a low pressure device that will spread the water out over the cars' panels? You're welcome.

All well and good but how wide are they? I ask becasue some of us blokes have child bearing hips.

As I said previously go and look at the Mishimoto catch cans.

The way it is set up is broadly the same as the NIsmo can if that makes you feel any better. You put a restrictor in it so the turbo doesnt hoover the guts out of your can and taking the oil with it. Dont use steel wool, use a sintered brass item as per mishimoto. https://www.mishimoto.com.au/automotive/oil-catch-cans.html

Looks ok in the tiny pic. Does it have a really small orifice plate in between the turbo inlet and the catch can?

Is this what you mean?

https://www.ozzytyres.com.au/tyres/?find=235-35-19-3105

Where did you site your oil cooler?

Sorry if I didnt look in the right spot - did you get the rims re-coated? If so is it powder coated. I only ask as I have some Bronze CE28's I want to turn into titanium silver CE28's.

^^^^^^

This may sound harsh but it is solid advice. Get a new workshop. You dont destroy a cam belt, lose compression and then start looking at injectors for the fault. BTW - it was their fault.

Only other thing I can think of is the seat angle on the sheel nuts may be wrong?

There are a number of brands of them. Surprisingly they are accurate enough for wheel nuts and such. I got mine from KC Tools but the usual suspects sell them too.

Also I use the steel version of these: http://www.arkdesign.co.jp/wheel.htm The long version to clear the longer Nismo nuts which suit the offset of the rim (The offsets are changed by Rays by machining more/less material from the wheel hub) And prior to that the project mu steel nuts but they rusted as the open ends stayed wet. What material are your nuts and are you sure the nut is not bottoming out on the stud and not seating the rim properly? Also I use a torque bar with a gun to do them up, this sort of thing: https://www.tridon.com.au/products/Toledo/18/332547/torque-products/466404/torque-extension-bars Supercheap have them for $45 ea. Probably get 20% off on Straya day. They are a special order anyway.

Its a GTR, it was built with twins and should stay that way. Just my opinion. Trouble being you wont get as good a result because the bolt up twins are getting pretty old. Not sure how long in the tooth the Garrett 707160- designs are now but it has to be 20 years atleast? Nearly everyone who advocates for singles runs E85. Do you want to got to that trouble for 400hp? If not what single are people recommending for 2.6 litres and 98 octane (Out of genuine interest).

From memory fronts and rears are different sized knurls. How much torque are you doing these things up with as that is usually the source of the problem.

YOu dont need an aircon guru. Seach for blend door actuator. Actually just read this. And this

Video does not offer any insights into the six turbo option..... please keep posts on topic. Just because it is the poor blokes first post: The answer to your question is single. Now, by all means, carry on pisstaking.

You are over thinking things. There is a difference between out of round distortion and change in diameter. Ring these people http://pacificengineparts.biz/ Talk to Trevor about end gaps and more importantly blowby. Or atleast leave a message for him and he will get back to you.