djr81

Logically the Nismo sway bars will be tuned to the Nismo springs whereas the Whiteline bars will be for the whiteline springs. If they have advantages for roadworthiness where you are from then you are on a winner. How much are the Nismo items? Hollow bars & solid bars work in exactly the same way - the hollow bars however are lighter for the same spring rate.

R32 GT-R’s Under carriage number division GT - R NISMO (marketing quantity 500 units) Under carriage number 100000 – 100560 Prior-term type: 1989 August 21st - Under carriage number 000051 – 017466 Mid-term type: 1991 August 20th - Under carriage number 212001 – Latter-term type: 1993 January - Under carriage number 300001 - 314649 Register quantity of classified by year type 1989 system (1989) 4,555 units 1990 system (1990) 8,426 units 1991 system (1991) 7,081 units 1992 system (1992) 7,961 units 1993 system (1993) 6,204 units 1994 system (1994) 7,465 units

Not half. Tired cranky drivers, just add beer and a few grievences.

Yeah the track battle thing for street cars (which my car would otherwise fit into) says something along the lines of UTQG less than 120 being prohibited. Not sure even what tyres run close to 120 - a Yokie AD08 is 180. You wont ruin a set of r compounds in a day as a private entrants (or shouldnt) unless you are running a really soft compound. It doesnt just keep costs down but actually lessens them. I dont know of anyone who is even half serious about doing sprints (sorry time attack) who doesnt run on R comps anyway. Just mark a set and that is what you have for the day.

I would be happy to own a collection of anything ever homologated for Group A and/or B. Preferably the evolution versions. Question of the day: Long tail McLaren F1 or the original version?

God what a horrible thing to do to a wonderful car. Stance & fitment - the new sex spec.

Well I cant speak for over in NSW but in WA they are not "mostly old people" nor are MX-5s particularly prevalent. There are however increasing numbers of open wheelers turning up as they are a cheap way to get really quick lap times. We get good crowds but it depends on where the events are run. Relatively few people run on slicks - if you want to you get bumped into the outright categories. So most cars run on r compounds like RE55's etc. The most popular classes are AWD (ie WRX's, Emos, GTR's) & large capacity sports cars (Supras etc). For what it is worth one of the biggest disincentives for sprint competitors running in "time attack" is the need to buy another set of tyres which offer less grip than their usual rubber. The requirement for hard tyres is arbitrary and redundant and I cant fathom why it is there at all. The set up of a drift car and a circuit car is fundamentally different. Sideways in a circuit car is slow. That is why you dont see it. Neutral (watch a Formula Ford race as an example) on the other hand is quick. A good drifter will have the same talents as a good circuit racer ie the ability to understand what the car is doing and drive it to its limits. A bad drifter or a bad racer will always look ordinary. Practicing driving a car on the limit will always improve your abilities. Good luck with it.

Marrying two different types of motorsport is always a problem. But at the end of the day if the promotor does not make a return the events wont continue. Having drifters & time attack together may well help to get enough entries and spectators to make the thing pay. For what it is worth Sprints events were going along quite nicely before someone decided to call some of them time attack. And before the fitted hat brigade tore up all the sand traps.

It doesnt. The point being once you hit the bump stop with a bit of force the damper for all intents and purposes stops working The spring force relative to the damper force goes up quickly. So you have the situation where 1. Youve hit a big bump. 2. You have a high spring rate. 3. You have an ineffective damper. Not a fun place to be. So you dont want an overly long damper bump stop. Fair point - I wasnt being specific. Bear in mind that at the block height to use an example of a 200mm long 300# spring there is 6730N of force on it. The otherway to look at is check the front weight of the car then halve it. Remove the unsprung weight. Then divide what is left by the spring rate. This will give you the amount of spring travel taken up by the car at rest. It is surprisingly high at times. The different between this height and your total spring travel is your effective spring travel - minus a margin and accounting for motion ratios. Anyway how much did the strut tops cost you?

What is it for a 32? I assumed so as the photos were from a 32R - actually mine in atleast one of them. If it is a 33 or a GTST the rates will be different. If you want cheap springs try Summit racing in the US - about $80USD ea plus shipping. Yes you can use poly bushes. I would use a shorter one than the old bump stop too. But the trick is to get the relationship between when the spring travel runs out and when the damper hits the bump stop. You need the damper to hit the stop only a little before the spring reaches its block height. If the damper stop is too long the car will pogo about all over the place.

No gurus To start sorry for the mixed units. Remember 1" = 25mm. 1kg/mm = 54lb/in. Does the strut change angle significantly during its stroke? No the damper shaft does not change is position enough to worry about it. If you mount the spring against steel and exclude a rubber isolation bush you will get more road noise & vibration. This is not an uncommon way of doing it however. See the photo below for a Bilstein setup using standard mounts but note that the shot is of the rear (The front is in the same order anyway). This is how the King springs setup is done aswell as a number of others. It can be regarded as "stock". The damper shaft bolts to the black upper mount (irrespective of which of the two mountings you use) at the top. If you look you will see from the top down - nyloc nuts, cad plated plate, rubber bush, the black top plate that bolts to the strut tower. Underneath the black plate is another steel bush that locates the damper shaft to the plate - this is hidden by the bump rubber for the shock. The point being that irrespective of the spring mount the location of the damper shaft is the same. It only changes when you get a "spherical" bearing mount. Which I wouldn't recommend anyway. Going on to the spring mount. Your King spring should have a rubber isolation bush between it and the top plate. It is a ring of about 110mm od and is 10mm thick. The last photo you have shown is a setup that Gary has used (aka Sydney Kid). It uses a spring retainer from Eibach (The red plate) and insulates this from the black top plate by using the old damper bump stop. It is not ideal but appears to work. The downside is you lose otherwise available suspension travel (about 20 - 25mm) and have a damper bump stop isolating a spring. There is another bump stop for the damper itself below the red Eibach plate. A third way The best arrangement is like this. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/368458-racepace-tein-ra-coilovers-r32-gtr/page__p__5875110#entry5875110 What you can see is the spring has a rubber isolation mount. The damper has its own bump stop. The standard black top locating plate has been replaced by an aftermarket item The problem with the arrangement shown is in the spring rates which are probably good for a drag car but not what you would want on the road/track. They are 9kg/mm front & 4kg/mm rear by the way. Note that the black Eibach springs are of a larger diameter that the red ones ie 70mm versus 2.5". Ideally you would replicate this setup (and could) using a Bilstein shock, standard damper shaft location and better spring rates. To do so you need to get top plates to match the spring diameter. I don't know where such a thing can be found. If anyone knows then please post away. Other random thoughts. Spring rates. I would use the following but you will find as many opinions as there are people. Some people like hard springs as it lets them talk it up how hard they are and also reduces the need to run much front end neg camber. Front 5kg/mm (275lb/in) spring. Rear: 4kg/mm (225 lb/in) or 4.5 (250 lb/in) spring depending on the application and setup of your attessa.

Definately sicko. Did someone say M635csi? Check this out. Dont start drooling over the 2002 either. http://www.bcspears.com/bmw_m635csi_gallery.htm

YOu dont need to pay $40 for a spanner. But you are far better off with two of the things.

For what little it may be worth.

It is more to do with countless iterations & refinements than new ideas - I guess development rather than design. I mean I am sure somewhere someone is working on a really innovative new software package for their active diff but really who cares? No mroe 6 wheelers. As an aside the popular conception of why Tyrrell had one is just wrong - they didnt cut down on the frontal area of the car. They reduced the front aero lift from an exposed tyre. But anyway. My thing is if you lined up all the 2011 F1 cars & had them painted the same colour would anyone be able to tell them apart? If you put up a series of Ferrari's 1950, 1960, 1970, 1980, 1990, 2000 & 2010. Which do you reckon would look most alike? It used to be that Ferrari had a veto on any new rules. Which is why for so many years the stuff coming out from the FIA made no sense. In hindsight it is now very clear what was going on.

Yeah my point was not about the tenths you sweat blood over to improve your lap time. It was more about the big new ideas that we used to see in motorsport that sadly have gone the way of the dodo. No one is suddenly going to reinvent something as fundamental as ground effects, or bung a gas turbine motor in something, or run a 4WD F1 car or come up with a paddle shift gear change or pneumatic valve springs or anything interesting anymore. Instead you get countless iterations of ever more complicated front wings & the like. Hell the most interesting technical development this year was where Renault put their exhaust pipe.

Well I never saw it as a desperate anything. He saw Schumacher off line and slow & stuck the thing up the inside - same as any other driver would do. As you would expect him to do. Schumacher turned in on Hill. No it wasnt premeditated. That came later on JV. If they dont penalise the driver then any penalty becomes nothing more than a tariff on winning. At the end of the day it is his responsibility to follow the instructions, ie the black flag. The problem now is the engineers are basically hard wired to interpret the rules in two ways: What do we need to do to pass the regulations/test. How do we circumvent the regulation to achieve what we want anyway. The sad part about F1 these days is there is very little innovation left. Mostly just aero development and packaging. And commerce.

It was a horrible year. Drivers died and an alleged champion "won" after running an illegal car & then deliberately running into his challenger after he screwed up. I remember watching the Adelaide race. It was all I could manage not to throw a stubby at the tv when Schumachers smirking face revealed he realised he had backed into the championship. There is so much wrong with your post that I dont have a clue where to start. They only gave Benetton a slap on the wrist because they could not prove the code had been used. They demonstrated it was there, it was illegal, it was hidden. They final bit - proving it was used they couldn't make a case for. Not that anyone doubts it was used. Black flag? So it is ok to ignore a black flag when Tom Walkinshaw says so? Anyway there is a difference between innovation that needs clarification from the governing body and blatant cheating. Just like there is a difference between static deflection for testing and dynamic deflection on the circuit. The whole Benetton/Ferrari/Schumacher thing is tainted by dodgy behaviour & actions that were massively against the interests of the sport. If, for example, Ferrari were so bloody brilliant why did they alone need to have the power to reject new rules? It is easy to win when you write the rulebook. As far as I am concerned they can piss off to Ferrari world and run a one make championship infront of no one.

You going through another Don Johnson/Miami Vice phase Baron?

Why does "something have to be done" People have been bitching about too much aero etc etc since approximately forever. The more they restict the cars the less interesting F1 becomes. Now we have fake tyres and fake overtaking to go with the fake plastic trees in the hospitality areas. Anyway it will all mean nothing when Ferrari buy the series.

Schumacher was too bloody lazy to come back in reasonable time from a single, slightly broken leg. He is no Niki Lauda. Schumacher was a hack that was never challenged because he was too soft to deal with a competitive team mate. He cant even beat Rosberg who is no star.

Having thought about it some more it would appear the entrance to the Mines baffle plates is at the rear of the cam shafts (I had them upside down in my mind) - the movement of the cam cap covers to positions 6 & 7 then makes good sense - they stop the cam lobes flinging oil into the inlet of the baffle plates. So who would have thought it - following the instructions makes sense. Well for the next 5 minutes anyway.

You would buy a car with a rebuilt motor: Most R32 GT-Rs about already have a rebuild in them. It is cheaper than buying a car then rebuilding the motor. If the motor is in good condition (do the usual checks) and was put together by competent people using good parts then you are on a winner.

What do they upgrade Baron & what ratios are in it?

I have a pair of the Mines cam cover baffle plates ready to go but also a question about the fitting of the Nissan cam baffle plates. The Mines instructions tell you to move the four cam baffle plates from positions 3 & 4 on both cams to the rear, ie position 6 & 7. These are the gold coloured covers on the photos on the left of the instructions. However I cannot see why you would want to do this as they appear to help stop the cam lobes flinging oil up into the entrance of the stock cam cover baffles. Given the position of the entrance to the Mines plates is not dissimilar to the Nissan ones wouldnt you be better off leaving them in positions 3 & 4 and drilling the Mines plates to accomodate them? This is what was done in the recent write up in HPI magazine - slothough I am unsure if they had the fitting instructions... Any help/opinions will be appreciated.