djr81

Project mu have a proper rotor in your size. Hatted, slotted, everything. Get those. For some unaccountable reason they dont make them in the right size for rears on the rest of the GTR range. Descrizione The PROJECT MU SCR-PRO Rotors - Rear Nissan Skyline GT-R BNR34 are designed specifically for high horsepower output vehicles. SCR-PRO rotors are constructed as a two-piece rotor design. SCR-PRO rotors are developed from super tough FC Cast Iron Material and are heat-treated for reliability, durability and thermal stability under aggressive driving. The affixed bell housing is made from a billet aluminum alloy for strength as well as reduction of unsprung weight. Project Mu SCR-PRO rotors are available as front and rear replacements including vehicles with the factory Brembo calipers. They are manufactured from the factory featuring a slotted and dimpled surface to facilitate better pad wear and maximize cooling and braking performance. SCR-PRO rotors also feature a specially designed internal vane to improve heat dissipation from the rotors. Product Specs Brand: PROJECT MU Product: SCR-PRO Rotors - Rear Nissan Skyline GT-R BNR34 Part Num: GPRN012 FEATURES: - Compatible for Vehicle inspection - Special Heat Treatment - Compatible with Circuit Use - 8 Straight Slits - Black Painting - 2 Piece Structure SPECIFICATIONS: Application: Rear Brakes Structure: 2 Pieces Slits: Straight/Eight slits per side; sixteen on both sides Materials: - Disc: High-alloy high-carbon FC cast iron - Bell Housing: Aluminum alloy Dimensions (mm): - O-D: 322 - Thickness: 22 - P.C.D.: 114.3 - Holes: 5 - Height: +2.2 - C.Bore: 68 PRODUCT NOTES: - Project Mu Bell Housing are 2.0mm wider compare to Stock OEM. When mounted the wheels will have a 2.0mm offset. COMPATIBILITY NOTES: - BNR34 N1: Only vehicles before 8/00 - BNR34 Standard: Only vehicles after 8/00 Compatibility Info Nissan Skyline GT-R BNR34 (Zenki - 1/99-8/00) Eng: RB26DETT Nissan Skyline GT-R BNR34 (Chuki - 8/00-10/00) Eng: RB26DETT Nissan Skyline GT-R BNR34 (Kouki - 10/00-8/02) Eng: RB26DETT Having said all that I am not sure how they cope with wear from the handbrake. Some other types have a steel liner on the hat for that very reason.

Yeah it is called bait and switch. Advertise a good cheap car & wait for the customer to turn up. Then sell them whatever is left on the lot. You can either ascribe it to incompetence or malpractice. Take your pick.

Z145a is the Ryco part number for the filter for an RB30. It fits an RB26 too for that matter. It is larger than the Nissan RB26 filter for what that is worth.

Your 93 IS a LATE model R32.

The numbers on the springs. Are they length, diameter then spring rate? Am I reading correctly that the fronts are 9kg/mm & the rear 4???

Five questions: So you have four tyres the same? What sway bars have you got? What spring rates are you running? What alignment settings do you have? What diffs are in the car? Generally to reduce understeer you will need more rear roll stiffness & less front. Which you can do with springs/sway bars/ride heights. Also the way you drive it makes a huge difference. On the other hand changing four tyres for a different compound shouldnt change the balance much if at all. Lastly check that the drop links to the sway bars are done up properly. A loose rear bar will give you massive undertsteer... To what? I mean, other than your bank account.

That is the disappointing thing about the current system. You cant get anything that is obscure or interesting. R33GTST? No problem. Lancia Delta Integrale Evo? No chance.

That is fine but how much rear downforce do you really want/need. No point having it if you cannot match it to the front downforce which is always the more difficult of the two to generate.

Just slow down. A compression test is done with the engine in the car & intact. Pull the plugs attach your gauge & crank the motor. Simple. Dont get carried away with thinking it is a cracked this or whatever. Chances are it is a stuffed head gasket or as I said earlier a gasket or a corrosion issue in the water/oil heat exchanger just behind the oil filter. Neither of these two things means it is a stuffed head. Infact unless you have driven the thing dry the head is probably fine as is the block. Take it to someone who knows what they are doing & let them diagnose the problem.

There is also an oil cooler/warmer where the oil filter is that has been known to cause similar problems. Been a few threads on it so have a search.

If they were porous you would have brake fluid everywhere. Having said that, ditch the open one, keep the others. Mostly because it is poor practice to have open bottles of brake fluid laying about.

Back in the olden days (late 80's, early 90's)they used to make production cars run on production car tyres. No semi slicks or similar. The trick was to get a brand new treaded tyre & remove most of the tread. Buffing was what it was called. It gained people a few tenths over a lap but it wont make them last longer.

I think that was me. I didnt quite say 50:50 I said more front bias. The way it works is roughly as follows. The stock Attessa cuts front bias when it senses a reasonable road speed & reasonable lateral gee input. This is to "make it feel like a rear wheel drive car". Which is fine if that is what you want. By reducing the influence of the lateral gee input you end up with more front torque. Which if you have a reasonable chassis balance & some horsepowers gives you a quicker lap time. It isnt a loss of traction thing to be pedantic. Also I have no idea how the fixed torque bias controllers work. Never used one. For whomever wanted to PM me whatever I emptied the rubbish out of my inbox. Anyway put the damn thread in a box & bury it. Please. Before RBNT has an aneurysm

Be even bigger fans if they stocked Bridgestone Re55's.

Sorry I wasnt paying attention & didnt realise we were talking viscous LSD's. If the thing is clunking that is pretty bad news & I would be rechecking clearances ASAP. The whole point of running viscous liquids is you dont get static friction "stiction" in the operation hence no clunking. If only there was an antonym for thixotropic the world would be a better place.

The noise is the friction plates in the diff moving relative to each other. They clunk becuase they are tight (probably overly so in this case). The plates "unstick", move a little then stop again - hence the clunk which finds its way up the drive train. It can be a pretty aggressive thing. A welded diff doesnt have anything to move so all you get is tyre noise.

For my 10 cents worth dont bother with a V8. Really the current Foulcan 6 runs to 195kW and doesnt struggle for torque either. The old windsors had less power & the 5.4 litre motor wasnt much chop. Plus they were only 4 speed autos. They arent yet down to $15k but go have a look at a FG XR6 instead of an older AU or BA XR8. There are heaps of them about and they are cheap. Insurance is cheap, they use less fuel & if you have an R33 who really cares how many horsepower the daily has. Failing the there are a bazillion BA/BF's about. AU's can now be had for loose change.

Yes - probably why the things have a propensity to warp.

Yeah, that is the cooler. power steer cooler.pdf

What? The R32 GTR already has a cooler for the power steering. It is behind the grill on the drivers side. If you want a bigger one then just bin the stock finned tube and hook the new cooler up to the original piping.

Or you can just get a replacement bush kit that allows for camber adjustment. The usual problem is you cannot reduce the rear camber sufficiently after the car is lowered. There is not alot of adjustment stock. Ofcourse if it is all about fitment then it is completely irrelevent. In the same manner that proper handling and tyre life is completey irrelevent.

I have some OMP shoes. Cheap as chips and a good, tight fit.

The answer for a standard car is no. The front is fixed.

How much did the DL1 cost you?

Ride height is dependent on the springs you use. The only way to do this is try it & see. I would use as a start point the lower of the two "Bilstein" grooves. At the end of the day you may have to re compress the spring & move the ciclip. But it is an easy job. If you want to add grooves before installing the springs then do so. From memory mine had three above and below the ones you get from Bilstein at the same intervals. But be aware the shocks have gas pressure in them!