djr81

That isnt right. Here is a photo of an N1 pump rotor assembly (on the left) and a stock one (right). Thanks to SIR R32 for the photo to clear it up. Of note: N1 internal gear as 11 teeth, stock has one more. The outer diameter of the outer rotor on the N1 pump is SMALLER than the stock pump. The tooth profile (particularly of the outer rotor) is markedly different between the two. Not shown on the photo but when pulled apart the casings are also markedly different.

I think the flow rate quoted for the stock pump is wrong - it should be 46L/min at 6000rpm. Also the outside diameter of the outer rotor of the stock pump is larger than the N1 pump so you need to be careful what you are referring to. Oil pumps of this type are POSITIVE displacement pumps. Flow rate out of the pump is not linked to pressure. The bypass valve is what needs attention. Oddly enough it is what no one pays any mind to.

Well if it help here is a photo (from Serge at NextGen Photography - he does awesome work) and a data log. Trim puckering moment at about 176 seconds when the thing spat sideways on the exit of the chicane at Collie. Which may or may not have been shortly after Serges photo. For what it is worth none of the options I listed teamed a high volume pump with a stock sump. For the very reasons teh Baron explained. The hard part is, as ever, deciding how much is enough. There is no data and can be none on how much flow is sufficient. For what it is worth I think I will be going a Tomei pump & larger sump. Just hope the people at Visa understand. Run 2.pdf

Shouldnt take too long. Someone from WA in an F1 car. Phark....

The data for Tomei was on volume 22 of new release information from Tomei in Seppoland. Put the flow rate for a stocker at 6000rpm at 47L/min & the Tomei pump at 56L/min. I wasnt necessarilly looking for independent data just confirmation or otherwise of the Nitto flow rates as the listings they use for stock pumps is at a variance to everyone elses.

Pharkk, this turned into a pile of less than helpful vitriol. The point of the thread was to get some determination on the relative merits of flow rates & sump volumes not to get all the monkeys chucking sh!t at each other. I don’t want the worlds greatest anything for the sake of having it. It’s like having the worlds hardest clutch which will last forever but destroy three gearboxes during its life. Useless. The point is to get a well balanced set up that works harmoniously over the life of the motor which will, eventually, end up dead. Like they all do. So far to the best of my understanding: A stock pump will flow 47litres/minute at 6000rpm. Various aftermarket pumps have claims to have greater flow rates. The Tomei pump claims to be 20% higher in volume. To be honest I am not that enamoured with the three piece design. The Jun pump is claimed to be 25% higher in volume. The Nitto pump (going on their published figures) is 40% over stock however their number for the standard pump flow rate is lower than the one quoted everywhere else. The downside of a higher flow rate is the need to have a much bigger sump volume, the knock on effects to the head in terms of getting rid of the oil, the pumping losses, the longer period needed to get the greater volume of oil up to a decent temperature. The upside is it may give you better bearing life longer assuming you don’t get pump cavitation issues. Oh and lastly there is nothing wrong with sintered metal. It is just a process used to form steel. Hell BMW used to use it for conrods. Anyway if anyone can help out by way of confirming the Nitto Flow rates I would be grateful.

Because I have some stuff already (N1 pump & Tomei baffles) in the car option 1 is probably down around $500 tbh - but it is not a $'s issue. For what it is worth (& I have tried to avoid all this) most pump failures I reckon to be down to materials of construction (ie sintered metal) limiter bashing and/or busted harmonic balancers. I mean, yes, inline sixes have inherent crank harmonic issues due to the length of their cranks but an RB26 is such a tiny thing it shouldn't cause massive drama. The Tomei kit looks nice - flow looks to be +20% on stock. I would like to know how this stacks up against an N1 pump but it doesn't appear the numbers are anywhere to be had sadly.

Can we keep it civil please ladies? It is just a fkn oil pump, not WW3.

Nice to see Rubens there abouts aswell. Also unrelated but it is bloody marvellous to see Jason Richards going hard.

For what it is worth it has an N1 pump in it but that would get a new gear if re - used. It already has a Tomei baffle too & gets 5 litres of Mobil 1 dumped in it every oil change. It is not a question of dollars it is a question of getting the system to work harminiously - for me anyway. You say option 1 will fail - due to the pump or due to flow rates? Option 3 is not an option for me.

Problem is I cant find a stated flow rate for the N1 pump anywhere. Nitto is about 40% over standard (not N!1 which to my mind is approximately a *#%^ load of oil. Can you confirm if this is correct: N1 is the 11 internal tooth pump (not teeth really being a Gerotor pump but you know what I mean) with a larger diameter than the standard pump (12 internal teeth)?

I realise this has been done a number of times but as I am about to get my motor re done I would like to try & make sure what I understand to be the case is actually correct - plus get some opinions. Question is this: Of the two options (see below - varying in flow rate & sump capacity) is the first sufficient or should I be spending the coin on number 2? Basically the build is straight forward & nothing flash. Approx 500rwhp from a Rb26 for use at supersprints & hillclimbs. Forged pistons, mild cams etc etc. It has been going fine on option 1 for a few years but the rebuild will have another 100rwhp. Anyway the question comes to the oiling options. As I see it there are two. 1. Stock sump with Tomei windage tray, N1 oil pump (For the new build I would like CNC ground replacement gears - is this the 81mm Reimax version?) & a 1.5mm restrictor 2. Higher volume sump, Nitto or Jun or similar aftermarket pump with 1.1mm head restrictor. Please do not concern yourselves with oil in the head issues as for the purpose of the argument they dont count. Nor for what it is worth worry about rants on N1 pump reliability.

Stuff like this may have been covered before - you know at some point in the last however many years this place has been going. The cut outs are not linked to the V spec cars. They are derived from the Nismo Group A evolution homologation Nissan (Nismo) built in 1990. Some V specs may have them, some may not. They may or may not be original. Most would have been built without them. As an aside V-specs are a waste of money unless you want A. To keep the thing stock and basically not use it. B. To brag about how your car is a Vspec.

Stock cams gain from more overlap ie advance the inlet & retard the exhaust. Aftermarket cams less so. The difference is aftermarket cam manufacturers didnt ever have to care about emissions compliance. RB26 cams are harder because they have to be shimmed.

Then for what it is worth just leave the stock cams in it for now. Focus on making the car reliable, handle well and be (relatively) cheap to run. Sub 55's wont win anything much anyway so just go have a go. As for running in stuff to give you an idea the last Speed Event Sprint at Collie a couple weeks ago - there were only 3 R32 GTRs entered - mine and a couple others. To be honest the cars are more different than they are similar. The Speed Aware Rally sprint at the boganplex a few weeks back had others that were different again. How you want your car to finish is up to you but understand that you will never actually finish & that there is no one right solution. I have been doing the SES for 6 or so years now & it is rare that my car is the same two events in a row. Some times the mods work, sometimes (like last time) they dont. Or they only half work. But that is part of the fun - figuring out how to go quicker then going your hardest to find out if you are correct or not. Sub 55 on the short circuit is a pharken good time. It takes alot of work to get to those times even if you have massive rwhp numbers. You cant just bolt stuff on & go bang there is a 54.5. It doesnt work like that.

The thing to remember is that seeing how the car is in WA the circuit in question is Wanneroo. It tends to favour top end hp rather than low - mid range torque. Understeer around there will kill you lap times too. But the main point is to get out there & have a go. Doing so should tell you two things: 1. How much you need to improve by. 2. Hopefully where you need to improve. The other thing is that it is more interesting modifying a car based on using it than building one without any feedback mechanisms other than from the internets. Cams are a good example. If you get out there & have a steer you will quickly discover the motor doesnt drop below 4000rpm around the long circuit. So cams that work well at 3000rpm are wasted. On the other hand cams that work too high in the rev range are useless at events at the AHG centre. Above all know that there is no one right solution. If you look at the quick cars around in WA you will see they make their lap speed in different ways. The very quick cars (of which there are very few) by definition do everything well. But they cost alot of money and have taken years of development.

Fat rangas are the new ruling class. Just watch the news.

Stock cam numbers are Inlet Opens 7 degrees BTDC Closes 53 Degrees BBDC (Which I take to mean ABDC) For a 240 degree duration Exhaust opens 63 degrees BBDC closes 7 degrees BTDC. for a 236 degree duration (or 250 degreee see below) Yes it says BTDC because thats what the manual says. Which may either be wrong or explain why the exhaust cam gears help. Anyway before getting carried away you need to work out at what point you need to have useable torque. No point having it at (say) 3500rpm if you never use the motor there or dont have any traction either.

Go option A. You can do better than the RDA rotors just as you can do better for brake pads than yellow stuff. Try project mu for rotors (they cool alot better than the RDA type) and Ferodo DS2500 for pads. It is important the pads work cold as well as hot and you need to be aware alot of pads do not work well cold and alot do not work well hot. Dont worry about the rears just fit them up with a reasonable pad (DS2500). Brake master cylinder stoppers and braided lines help alot too as does removing the stone guards from behind the rotor. Get some Motul RBF660 fluid. Also rim selection has a BIG influence on brake cooling. R33 rims are good but I have NFI what you are running. The last & best option you can buy is a cheap data logger to make sure you are hard on the brakes. It is easy to be too gentle.

From memory it is hidden in the bump stop. It sits on the end of the shaft at the bottom of the threaded section. That is how Bilstein do it anyway.

Problem being thanks to the hella flush fitment/stretched tyre brigade you cant even get proper sized & offset rims anymore to suit the tyres you want to run.

Yes they are two different parts.

You need to secure the shaft of the shock absorber to the mount. To do so you can either bolt it top & bottom or use a collar underneath & a nut on top. As to why - the shock will have gas pressure in it which extends the shaft. So when you push down on the car without the shaft being secured the spring compresses & the shaft doesn't. Hence the shock doesnt function.

I run the same. They are good value & work well. I have no idea why people fixate on adjustable shocks when so very few have any idea what to adjust. And that is before you factor in their lack of repeatability, linearity and their generally poorer damping performance compared with a cheaper non adjustable shock. I recently considered buying some high end adjustables. But it all fell apart when the vendor utered the following phrase: "We dont provide graphs for them." OK, so how do I have any clue as to what effect adjusting the shocks has on the damper characteristic????

You are kidding aren't you? Schumacher is so far past it he can barely remember what it was. He regularly gets hosed by Rosberg. Button gets hosed by Hamilton & almost everyone else. Kubica has half an arm missing. Webber gets done in qualifying basically because he is too heavy. Hopefully this year the rules changes make the drivers weight less of an issue. In any case Vettel is a bag of feathers so who really cares.