djr81

Yes the exit is only 1/3 of the corner. Just the most important third as it dictates your speed along the straight which is where there is a huge amount of time to be gained/lost. Given a GTR can run a wider tyre, it can brake as well as a GTST, corner as well too. You have assumed the response of the tyre to additional weight is linear. It is not. What you have said there is fundamentally wrong. A well advanced AWD will beat a RWD in terms of potential (or anything really) anytime. You have summed the whole thing up there. So why say that & then try & back pedal?

Chalker Cosworth?

The twin chassis Lotus was a bucket of snot. Hopeless. The FIA did Chapman a favour by banning it, not that it was legal in the first place. Anyway your mate Colin was busy with other, much more dodgy stuff at the time.

Your theory is complete rubbish.

Why do you mean by Eibach dont do them? I have the red Eibach springs on my Bilstein shocks on my R32 GTR. For what it is worth they replaced Whiteline springs which now sit gathering cobwebs in a box next to some black Eibach springs that bolt straight up to the Bilstein shocks. If you want to use springs from red (motorsport) Eibach range you need the threaded section that fits over the shock, the two bottom collars, the top spring seat & the spring. Eibach do a massive range of springs. You need to specify the spring length (eg for the rear in inches so a 8" long spring reads a 0800 on it), ID for me its 2.5" (which reads as 250 on the spring) and finally the rate in lbs/in. Divide the number by 54 to get kg/mm, so a 275 lb spring equals 5.1kg/mm.

First thing is to find a car club & go have a look. http://cams.com.au/en/Development/Club_Zone/Club_Finder.aspx

There was a time when I would have hapilly have shot Mike Raymond - the useless fat fk. But in hindsight maybe he wasnt as annoying as his commentary. He did some good work keeping alive the broadcast of motorsport in Aus. At one point there channel 7 didnt even want to telecast the ATCC. Just Bathurst. Hell the 89 (?) Sandown 500 was shown on the ABC because no one else was interested. For that matter the Aaaaab did a pretty good job of telecasting the early 80's Group C stuff. Most of it is now being sold by Chevron on DVD's. Most of what I remember of Longhurst was that you could just about set your watch for the time into the race when he would punt Bowe off into the boonies. You are right though. Compared to just about every other touring car series the V8's are going great. I mean they are entertaining bids for the ownership of it running into tens of millions of dollars. Madness.

But not only was the racing pretty awful so was the telecast on seven (you'd get an hour squeezed in between the football or failing that on after the late movie on a Sunday night ie 10.30 start). People should remember that there used to be one race of less than an hour on Sunday with only qualifying on Saturday. So there is much more actual racing nowadays. Added to that there were relatively few cars - the 1992 rounds for Tassie and WA had maybe a dozen entrants. The legacy of group A is the great cars it generated. The racing was ordinary & the set up unsustainable once it lost manufacturer support. V8's for all its faults has atleast allows more teams to prosper and is actually less dependent on the manufacturers than group A.

Attached is the info sheet that comes with the Tomei pump. (I bought one). Couple quesries if anyone can help with the translation. 1. There are three tiny disc shaped shims and a washer(In the box on page 1). Cant make out from the manual where these go other than under the external bolt shown on the pump on p3. Is that correct? 2. Basically what is written on the table on page three?

I agree with what you are saying - but the SIPS on a 2 door R32 is still pretty nonexistant, least of all if someone with a fk off big roo bar on their 4WD nails you where the B piller isnt. A westie XTR is something a bit interesting if you had the coin.

Yeah but you dont have to have a Caterham. There are a bundle of other makes. Just get one with an independent rear end and the wide body version (To fit your child bearing hips). As long as you arent too tall they are great cars. Put whatever motor you want in them. You can even get them with a carbon fibre tub if you have the coin. They are quick - very quick on tight stuff. Fun to drive & they are cheap to run. Stack up how much you will pay for brakes/tyres/motors on a turbo charged Nissan anything and compare it to the $1.50 it costs to run a Clubbie. If I could fit in one of the damn things I would probably go buy one. http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/results.aspx?N=1216+1246+1247+1252+1282+4294933671&keywords=&tsrc=allcarhome&Nne=15

That isnt right. Here is a photo of an N1 pump rotor assembly (on the left) and a stock one (right). Thanks to SIR R32 for the photo to clear it up. Of note: N1 internal gear as 11 teeth, stock has one more. The outer diameter of the outer rotor on the N1 pump is SMALLER than the stock pump. The tooth profile (particularly of the outer rotor) is markedly different between the two. Not shown on the photo but when pulled apart the casings are also markedly different.

I think the flow rate quoted for the stock pump is wrong - it should be 46L/min at 6000rpm. Also the outside diameter of the outer rotor of the stock pump is larger than the N1 pump so you need to be careful what you are referring to. Oil pumps of this type are POSITIVE displacement pumps. Flow rate out of the pump is not linked to pressure. The bypass valve is what needs attention. Oddly enough it is what no one pays any mind to.

Well if it help here is a photo (from Serge at NextGen Photography - he does awesome work) and a data log. Trim puckering moment at about 176 seconds when the thing spat sideways on the exit of the chicane at Collie. Which may or may not have been shortly after Serges photo. For what it is worth none of the options I listed teamed a high volume pump with a stock sump. For the very reasons teh Baron explained. The hard part is, as ever, deciding how much is enough. There is no data and can be none on how much flow is sufficient. For what it is worth I think I will be going a Tomei pump & larger sump. Just hope the people at Visa understand. Run 2.pdf

Shouldnt take too long. Someone from WA in an F1 car. Phark....

The data for Tomei was on volume 22 of new release information from Tomei in Seppoland. Put the flow rate for a stocker at 6000rpm at 47L/min & the Tomei pump at 56L/min. I wasnt necessarilly looking for independent data just confirmation or otherwise of the Nitto flow rates as the listings they use for stock pumps is at a variance to everyone elses.

Pharkk, this turned into a pile of less than helpful vitriol. The point of the thread was to get some determination on the relative merits of flow rates & sump volumes not to get all the monkeys chucking sh!t at each other. I don’t want the worlds greatest anything for the sake of having it. It’s like having the worlds hardest clutch which will last forever but destroy three gearboxes during its life. Useless. The point is to get a well balanced set up that works harmoniously over the life of the motor which will, eventually, end up dead. Like they all do. So far to the best of my understanding: A stock pump will flow 47litres/minute at 6000rpm. Various aftermarket pumps have claims to have greater flow rates. The Tomei pump claims to be 20% higher in volume. To be honest I am not that enamoured with the three piece design. The Jun pump is claimed to be 25% higher in volume. The Nitto pump (going on their published figures) is 40% over stock however their number for the standard pump flow rate is lower than the one quoted everywhere else. The downside of a higher flow rate is the need to have a much bigger sump volume, the knock on effects to the head in terms of getting rid of the oil, the pumping losses, the longer period needed to get the greater volume of oil up to a decent temperature. The upside is it may give you better bearing life longer assuming you don’t get pump cavitation issues. Oh and lastly there is nothing wrong with sintered metal. It is just a process used to form steel. Hell BMW used to use it for conrods. Anyway if anyone can help out by way of confirming the Nitto Flow rates I would be grateful.

Because I have some stuff already (N1 pump & Tomei baffles) in the car option 1 is probably down around $500 tbh - but it is not a $'s issue. For what it is worth (& I have tried to avoid all this) most pump failures I reckon to be down to materials of construction (ie sintered metal) limiter bashing and/or busted harmonic balancers. I mean, yes, inline sixes have inherent crank harmonic issues due to the length of their cranks but an RB26 is such a tiny thing it shouldn't cause massive drama. The Tomei kit looks nice - flow looks to be +20% on stock. I would like to know how this stacks up against an N1 pump but it doesn't appear the numbers are anywhere to be had sadly.

Can we keep it civil please ladies? It is just a fkn oil pump, not WW3.

Nice to see Rubens there abouts aswell. Also unrelated but it is bloody marvellous to see Jason Richards going hard.

For what it is worth it has an N1 pump in it but that would get a new gear if re - used. It already has a Tomei baffle too & gets 5 litres of Mobil 1 dumped in it every oil change. It is not a question of dollars it is a question of getting the system to work harminiously - for me anyway. You say option 1 will fail - due to the pump or due to flow rates? Option 3 is not an option for me.

Problem is I cant find a stated flow rate for the N1 pump anywhere. Nitto is about 40% over standard (not N!1 which to my mind is approximately a *#%^ load of oil. Can you confirm if this is correct: N1 is the 11 internal tooth pump (not teeth really being a Gerotor pump but you know what I mean) with a larger diameter than the standard pump (12 internal teeth)?

I realise this has been done a number of times but as I am about to get my motor re done I would like to try & make sure what I understand to be the case is actually correct - plus get some opinions. Question is this: Of the two options (see below - varying in flow rate & sump capacity) is the first sufficient or should I be spending the coin on number 2? Basically the build is straight forward & nothing flash. Approx 500rwhp from a Rb26 for use at supersprints & hillclimbs. Forged pistons, mild cams etc etc. It has been going fine on option 1 for a few years but the rebuild will have another 100rwhp. Anyway the question comes to the oiling options. As I see it there are two. 1. Stock sump with Tomei windage tray, N1 oil pump (For the new build I would like CNC ground replacement gears - is this the 81mm Reimax version?) & a 1.5mm restrictor 2. Higher volume sump, Nitto or Jun or similar aftermarket pump with 1.1mm head restrictor. Please do not concern yourselves with oil in the head issues as for the purpose of the argument they dont count. Nor for what it is worth worry about rants on N1 pump reliability.

Stuff like this may have been covered before - you know at some point in the last however many years this place has been going. The cut outs are not linked to the V spec cars. They are derived from the Nismo Group A evolution homologation Nissan (Nismo) built in 1990. Some V specs may have them, some may not. They may or may not be original. Most would have been built without them. As an aside V-specs are a waste of money unless you want A. To keep the thing stock and basically not use it. B. To brag about how your car is a Vspec.

Stock cams gain from more overlap ie advance the inlet & retard the exhaust. Aftermarket cams less so. The difference is aftermarket cam manufacturers didnt ever have to care about emissions compliance. RB26 cams are harder because they have to be shimmed.