djr81

Then for what it is worth just leave the stock cams in it for now. Focus on making the car reliable, handle well and be (relatively) cheap to run. Sub 55's wont win anything much anyway so just go have a go. As for running in stuff to give you an idea the last Speed Event Sprint at Collie a couple weeks ago - there were only 3 R32 GTRs entered - mine and a couple others. To be honest the cars are more different than they are similar. The Speed Aware Rally sprint at the boganplex a few weeks back had others that were different again. How you want your car to finish is up to you but understand that you will never actually finish & that there is no one right solution. I have been doing the SES for 6 or so years now & it is rare that my car is the same two events in a row. Some times the mods work, sometimes (like last time) they dont. Or they only half work. But that is part of the fun - figuring out how to go quicker then going your hardest to find out if you are correct or not. Sub 55 on the short circuit is a pharken good time. It takes alot of work to get to those times even if you have massive rwhp numbers. You cant just bolt stuff on & go bang there is a 54.5. It doesnt work like that.

The thing to remember is that seeing how the car is in WA the circuit in question is Wanneroo. It tends to favour top end hp rather than low - mid range torque. Understeer around there will kill you lap times too. But the main point is to get out there & have a go. Doing so should tell you two things: 1. How much you need to improve by. 2. Hopefully where you need to improve. The other thing is that it is more interesting modifying a car based on using it than building one without any feedback mechanisms other than from the internets. Cams are a good example. If you get out there & have a steer you will quickly discover the motor doesnt drop below 4000rpm around the long circuit. So cams that work well at 3000rpm are wasted. On the other hand cams that work too high in the rev range are useless at events at the AHG centre. Above all know that there is no one right solution. If you look at the quick cars around in WA you will see they make their lap speed in different ways. The very quick cars (of which there are very few) by definition do everything well. But they cost alot of money and have taken years of development.

Fat rangas are the new ruling class. Just watch the news.

Stock cam numbers are Inlet Opens 7 degrees BTDC Closes 53 Degrees BBDC (Which I take to mean ABDC) For a 240 degree duration Exhaust opens 63 degrees BBDC closes 7 degrees BTDC. for a 236 degree duration (or 250 degreee see below) Yes it says BTDC because thats what the manual says. Which may either be wrong or explain why the exhaust cam gears help. Anyway before getting carried away you need to work out at what point you need to have useable torque. No point having it at (say) 3500rpm if you never use the motor there or dont have any traction either.

Go option A. You can do better than the RDA rotors just as you can do better for brake pads than yellow stuff. Try project mu for rotors (they cool alot better than the RDA type) and Ferodo DS2500 for pads. It is important the pads work cold as well as hot and you need to be aware alot of pads do not work well cold and alot do not work well hot. Dont worry about the rears just fit them up with a reasonable pad (DS2500). Brake master cylinder stoppers and braided lines help alot too as does removing the stone guards from behind the rotor. Get some Motul RBF660 fluid. Also rim selection has a BIG influence on brake cooling. R33 rims are good but I have NFI what you are running. The last & best option you can buy is a cheap data logger to make sure you are hard on the brakes. It is easy to be too gentle.

From memory it is hidden in the bump stop. It sits on the end of the shaft at the bottom of the threaded section. That is how Bilstein do it anyway.

Problem being thanks to the hella flush fitment/stretched tyre brigade you cant even get proper sized & offset rims anymore to suit the tyres you want to run.

Yes they are two different parts.

You need to secure the shaft of the shock absorber to the mount. To do so you can either bolt it top & bottom or use a collar underneath & a nut on top. As to why - the shock will have gas pressure in it which extends the shaft. So when you push down on the car without the shaft being secured the spring compresses & the shaft doesn't. Hence the shock doesnt function.

I run the same. They are good value & work well. I have no idea why people fixate on adjustable shocks when so very few have any idea what to adjust. And that is before you factor in their lack of repeatability, linearity and their generally poorer damping performance compared with a cheaper non adjustable shock. I recently considered buying some high end adjustables. But it all fell apart when the vendor utered the following phrase: "We dont provide graphs for them." OK, so how do I have any clue as to what effect adjusting the shocks has on the damper characteristic????

You are kidding aren't you? Schumacher is so far past it he can barely remember what it was. He regularly gets hosed by Rosberg. Button gets hosed by Hamilton & almost everyone else. Kubica has half an arm missing. Webber gets done in qualifying basically because he is too heavy. Hopefully this year the rules changes make the drivers weight less of an issue. In any case Vettel is a bag of feathers so who really cares.

Roy, I am doing soemthng a bit similar. Have some drawings of what I need. Did you get Race Brakes to machine the adaptors or somewhere else? PM if you like.

The abridged version is something like this (allegedly, apparently, to the best of my knowledge) A cruise was mentioned and/or partly organised on the site. It wasnt an official cruise or anything like it. A donut eating cop trawling the net picked up on it. Someone from a hardware story apparently complained when a number of cars parked up in their car park. Yellow stickers were handed out, people unrelated to the event booked for speeding, fines issued etc. The bit that annoyed the &*$^ out of everyone is the police PR machine got stuck in & the TV news made a huge thing out of it. As ever facts were wrong and/or distorted. Members of the forum had to go on radio to try & clear things up. All up poor policing, poor journalism and a prety unhappy result for all concerned. The problem being 5 minutes after it has happened no one remembers other than those directly affected. So WA may be more lenient in some ways (mostly EPA stuff because they are seemingly incapable of getting their act together) but I can assure you the defect notice system is near on permanently broken & the hoon hype is just as bad.

A few things. 1. The paper doesn't really care. I know they should but they dont. It is the result of a time short, harassed journalist being offered a "story" on a plate by the police PR. 2. The paper wont make anyone aware of anything. They aren't a public service, they are just another busted arse company. 3. If you did want to do something that may have a chance of working you would need to contact the journo, get in his/her head (basically provide a story too as he/she has a job to do). Then maybe (maybe) next time they will be a little better informed when the coppers spout their bullsht. Not having a go at Nismoid in this. It is just that nearly everyone over estimates how much attention the public pay to what is written in any one paper. I mean how many articles can you remember reading in last weeks/weekends rag? Probably none. I know I cant. If you want an example of this sort of rubbish (ie Police PR misrepresenting car clubs etc & what goes on) then have a look at what happened to the Antilag mob over in WA.

A 2 way (even a tight 1.5 way) will push the car into understeer. A locked diff is worse. Much worse. That is nonsense A 1.5 way is as predictable as a 2 way. It also allows the car to handle a whole lot bettr because the diff doesn't have the same propensity to lock on the over run. Bottom line: dont run a welded diff on a road car. Not only is it illegal, it is dangerous.

Pardon my ignorance but did Nissan (not Nismo or a special edition) actually ever make a red GTR - not the maroon the 32's come in either. Proper red.

First rule in fixing cars. Check for obvious/easy stuff before rebuilding the thing from ground up.

If the Nismo catch can is connected to the turbo inlet as designed the oil goes there & finds its way into the intercooler. If it is vented to atmosphere then it will just make a mess of the engine bay like most cans do. Point is it is at best a bandaid fix. It will knock down some oil & return it but there should not be half a litre there in the first place.

Yeah they do - 256 degree 9.25 lift inlet & exhaust. Base circle is 32mm.

The Nismo can will not put an end to the sort of issues you have described. Vapour (and oil) still finds its way into the intercooler. Enough to drip out the bovs. You need to stop the oil getting to the catch can in the first place. Are you running a PCV? Because if you are not then that will be half the problem.

No, it wont. But given it takes 30 seconds to check & that it is probably the cause I reckon it is a good place to start.

A long time ago a bloke by the name of Phillippe Alliot was the test driver for McLaren when they were running Pug engines. Anyway there was a trumped up road car versus 2 litre touring car versus F1 article in Car mag. Asked what he thought of the road car (a Peugeot three oh something) he answered: any road car is a total disaster on a race track. Now that is quality PR. Ivan Capelli was the man when he drove for March. But Ferrari screwed him over massively after making him drive what was up there with the worst Ferrari F1 cars of all time.

You can use the Whiteline kit on the rear on both the inner & outer pivots. Also on the traction arms which is sort of a good idea to reduce bump steer although to be honest I never really had an issue with it. Anyway if you use the bushes set the outer ones to as long an effective length as you can. Reason being that once they are on the car they are a complete &$%^ to adjust with the wheels on. Which they will be if you are trying to align the thing. But having done all that you will struggle to get down to -1.5 degrees. So aftermarket is not such a bad idea.

Why not adjust the valve that controls how much air the motor gets at idle? It is under the plenum. Just screw it in & see if your problem goes away.

Back in the olden days Nismo did actually make an adjustable arm. Now all it appears to be is a stock unit with harder bushes = waste of money. But that does help make sense of some of the references in the Nismo cattle dogs.