djr81

Roy, I am doing soemthng a bit similar. Have some drawings of what I need. Did you get Race Brakes to machine the adaptors or somewhere else? PM if you like.

The abridged version is something like this (allegedly, apparently, to the best of my knowledge) A cruise was mentioned and/or partly organised on the site. It wasnt an official cruise or anything like it. A donut eating cop trawling the net picked up on it. Someone from a hardware story apparently complained when a number of cars parked up in their car park. Yellow stickers were handed out, people unrelated to the event booked for speeding, fines issued etc. The bit that annoyed the &*$^ out of everyone is the police PR machine got stuck in & the TV news made a huge thing out of it. As ever facts were wrong and/or distorted. Members of the forum had to go on radio to try & clear things up. All up poor policing, poor journalism and a prety unhappy result for all concerned. The problem being 5 minutes after it has happened no one remembers other than those directly affected. So WA may be more lenient in some ways (mostly EPA stuff because they are seemingly incapable of getting their act together) but I can assure you the defect notice system is near on permanently broken & the hoon hype is just as bad.

A few things. 1. The paper doesn't really care. I know they should but they dont. It is the result of a time short, harassed journalist being offered a "story" on a plate by the police PR. 2. The paper wont make anyone aware of anything. They aren't a public service, they are just another busted arse company. 3. If you did want to do something that may have a chance of working you would need to contact the journo, get in his/her head (basically provide a story too as he/she has a job to do). Then maybe (maybe) next time they will be a little better informed when the coppers spout their bullsht. Not having a go at Nismoid in this. It is just that nearly everyone over estimates how much attention the public pay to what is written in any one paper. I mean how many articles can you remember reading in last weeks/weekends rag? Probably none. I know I cant. If you want an example of this sort of rubbish (ie Police PR misrepresenting car clubs etc & what goes on) then have a look at what happened to the Antilag mob over in WA.

A 2 way (even a tight 1.5 way) will push the car into understeer. A locked diff is worse. Much worse. That is nonsense A 1.5 way is as predictable as a 2 way. It also allows the car to handle a whole lot bettr because the diff doesn't have the same propensity to lock on the over run. Bottom line: dont run a welded diff on a road car. Not only is it illegal, it is dangerous.

Pardon my ignorance but did Nissan (not Nismo or a special edition) actually ever make a red GTR - not the maroon the 32's come in either. Proper red.

First rule in fixing cars. Check for obvious/easy stuff before rebuilding the thing from ground up.

If the Nismo catch can is connected to the turbo inlet as designed the oil goes there & finds its way into the intercooler. If it is vented to atmosphere then it will just make a mess of the engine bay like most cans do. Point is it is at best a bandaid fix. It will knock down some oil & return it but there should not be half a litre there in the first place.

Yeah they do - 256 degree 9.25 lift inlet & exhaust. Base circle is 32mm.

The Nismo can will not put an end to the sort of issues you have described. Vapour (and oil) still finds its way into the intercooler. Enough to drip out the bovs. You need to stop the oil getting to the catch can in the first place. Are you running a PCV? Because if you are not then that will be half the problem.

No, it wont. But given it takes 30 seconds to check & that it is probably the cause I reckon it is a good place to start.

A long time ago a bloke by the name of Phillippe Alliot was the test driver for McLaren when they were running Pug engines. Anyway there was a trumped up road car versus 2 litre touring car versus F1 article in Car mag. Asked what he thought of the road car (a Peugeot three oh something) he answered: any road car is a total disaster on a race track. Now that is quality PR. Ivan Capelli was the man when he drove for March. But Ferrari screwed him over massively after making him drive what was up there with the worst Ferrari F1 cars of all time.

You can use the Whiteline kit on the rear on both the inner & outer pivots. Also on the traction arms which is sort of a good idea to reduce bump steer although to be honest I never really had an issue with it. Anyway if you use the bushes set the outer ones to as long an effective length as you can. Reason being that once they are on the car they are a complete &$%^ to adjust with the wheels on. Which they will be if you are trying to align the thing. But having done all that you will struggle to get down to -1.5 degrees. So aftermarket is not such a bad idea.

Why not adjust the valve that controls how much air the motor gets at idle? It is under the plenum. Just screw it in & see if your problem goes away.

Back in the olden days Nismo did actually make an adjustable arm. Now all it appears to be is a stock unit with harder bushes = waste of money. But that does help make sense of some of the references in the Nismo cattle dogs.

Yeah the rear of the two drilled holes is lower and the front ones are closer to the centre. So the arm (bushes really) is loaded less with more castor. The wheel needs to sit in the middle of the wheel arch so as the castor angle increases the amount of twist increases. Less castor (like Cusco arms) less load. The nylon bush was a cheap and nasty fix that I got done for beer. Turns out it was a permanent fix. You only need one per side. The cost of the Nismo bits is pretty stupid given: 1. The bracket is a stock bracket with different drill holes and a coat of silver paint. 2. The LCA is a stock bit with the outer pick up point moved 5mm or so outwards. Also painted silver. 3. The castor rod is a stock item but a few mm shorter & you guessed it, painted silver. But they fix problems, increase castor & camber so in the end you take the pain. The worst of it is ripping out the ABS unit just to get the LHS one in and having to bleed the brakes.

Bride are no good if you have child bearing hips. Velo on the other hand are recommended for the larger of frame.

Just a couple of things to note about the upper arms: There are TWO measurements you need to think about. The first is obvious - the length of the arms. The second less so. As you can see from the photo the arm is not straight - the outside pivot is forward of the inside pivot. From right to left the arms are: 1 Standard. 182mm long (from memory) and has an offset of about 15mm 2. Cusco that is 10mm shorter than stock & with an offset of 22mm for LESS castor hence less load on the bearings (in this case) 3. Shorter arm I had made to basically replicate the Cusco dims but use Whiteline bushes. 4. Shorter (again) arm with less offset. The thing is you can only run such an offset with the modified inner mounting bracket from Nismo otherwise it just tears itself to bits. Also the white bush you can see is one turned up out of Nylon because the Whiteline one is too soft & keeps failing. Nylon hasnt given up yet after alot of track days.

Duncan is right the front arms on an R32 are a horror story. If you just use the Whiteline bushes & go near a track you destroy the bushes unless you keep the stock castor rods. Even then I am not sure they last very well. This is what I did. Bought the Nismo front end suspension link kit. This gets you a longer LCA (which helps a little), a revised upper link mounting bracket (which helps eliminate the too much castor trashing bushes issue) and a castor rod which I didn't use. Then having given up trying to find anything decent I had some upper arms made & used a Whiteline bush kit. That way you get to choose the castor & the camber. If you want the thing to be half decent on the track without resorting to stupid spring rates you will need over four degrees of each. Sway bars are Cusco rear & Whiteline front. The Whiteline ones are a bit crap because they are solid bar & weigh a tonne. Cusco & Nismo (I think) ones are atleast hollow but are non adjustable. The adjustability on the Whiteline ones is a bit bullshit anyway becasue the front is always full soft & the rear full hard. You also need an attessa controller (for more front bias) which allows you to run a harder rear spring for a little less understeer. Not sure which Cusco arms are being referred to (Above, a couple posts back) but they weight a tonne and use bearing which I would imagine would last atleast 5 minutes. I have a pair with stuffed bearings in the shed at home. I wouldn't recommend them.

They went wrong when they realised they can make more money out of selling crap merchandise than from making cars. I put it about the same period as when Schumacher started driving for them but some argue it was slightly previous to that. Anyway the 288 was one of the last of the good cars they made. It looks well hard & isnt tarnished by the crap engineering the F40 has in it. They were still trying in those days - not just selling junk to rich fkrs who dont know any better. Lets all go to Ferrari world and puke in their roller coaster.

They are actually dirt cheap brand new aswell. No one needs pay any where near sticker price. I got a Foulcan for much the same reasons. Aircon blows cold, cruise control works well, car is quiet and comfortable to drive. Damn thing has ipod connectivity & blueteeth from the factory. It even rides/handles pretty well - ESC is switchable but will let you get a little sideways when it is on. Plus I can still move about when I get out of it after a three hour drive. Something I cant do well when I get out of my GTR.

Just pull the wheel off and measure how far out past the brake rotor the stud projects. Then look at the back of the rim and see if it is solid where the stud will sit.

Nissan specified 7.5W30. Understand that it gets much colder in Japan than Oz. Most people are happy with 10W50 which is the cheapest of the Mobil 1 viscosity range. Other people who use other oils end up with different ranges. Anyway it is not really the fault of the oil. Also make sure the blow by has somewhere to go. Which means running a PCV. Cars without them spit more oil.

Yeah probably. For a track car - do it. For a road car it is probably neither here nor there. But then we are all guilty of spending money on our cars for little gain or just for the satisfaction of doing it properly.

Because I needed a new one anyway.

Actually I pulled most of the numbers out of my arse. 200mm was an estimate because I could not remember the actually number. The points I made still stand. Also it isnt a cut and paste.