djr81

But... You and I go shopping and find exactly what we're looking for.

Yeah there is 10Hz stuff on their website but I am so old school I have NFI what any of it does. Just want a decent data logger that uses GPS & allows me to feed in other signals like rpm, TPS & steering angle. Teh GTAAAAH's have all that already wired into their systems but unless you spend alot of coin there doesn't appear to be an easy way of getting it into a logger with GPS.

These any good? http://www.qstarz.com.au/index_files/Page599.htm

You wont have any problems with an SA whatever helmet at a Cams event. Good to see the 2010's are out shortly. Just make sure the thing fits properly - that is about the only downside of buying a helmet from overseas.

CAD stuff is easy. Hard part is finding a CNC shop to do them at a reasonable price. Any ideas?

Upsde down Miss Jane. The fat swaybar needs to be at the rear, the thin one at the front. Stock sway bars are hopeless when married to high spring rates.

Nah you have to pay extra for the clunk. Stockers are overwhelmingly quiet.

Well I have the -5 Garretts on my 32 R & to be honest I don't have any real issue with lag. Just leave stock cams in it & bolt on some cam gears. If you are only running 400rwhp (like me) then it isn't turbolag that is going to be the issue it is just outright lack of grunt. Jimmah Eames R33 R that won the Collie hillclimb has phone numbers for rwhp as an example. On the tight and twisty SES rounds (like Busso, Jacks hill, Mt Clarence) the Emo's go better than the GT-R's anyway. Steve Jones flogged everyone at Busso in his. But as long as the motor will punch out of second gear fiddly chicanes it will be fine on the hillclimbs. The tyres fouled the guards at the rear. You need to roll the lip out of them to stop the side of the tyre getting gouged. The front wont be a problem as you have to run heaps of neg camber to try & make the car push less so the top of a +22 usually ends up well inside the guard lip. If you run alot of castor the tyre can & will scrape the front of the guard liner but that is only plastic & doesn't really hurt anyone/thing. As for tyres every man & his dog runs SR2 RE55's on GT-R's. Go & see Kerry Wade at Bridgestone in Bentley. Should be about $2k for the four.

As the car is in Perth there are some things to go by. If it is to be run at Wanneroo there really isn't much downside in the larger turbo. If it is run in kharnas/AHG etc then get the smallest turbo that will make the power you are chasing. Is the 400-500hp at the wheels or not? A +22 rim on an R32 with a 255/40/17 RE55 will foul the guard. Mine did. So you will need work to clear +11's. It is a track setup. Hence needs whatever camber/ride height makes the car go hard, not whatever is needed to make the tyre fit. Plus remember you will be (or should be) smashing the thing over kerbs to make lap time - which doesn't go well with all this flush fitment bullsht going about.

For $20k you are better off finding one locally. You can see it, touch it, hell, fondle it if you want to. You can also do any number of checks to make you happy before handing over the cash. At the end of the day it is a GT-R & it will have been flogged, irrespective of whether it is ex Japan or has made it to Australia in the last couple years of its 15 year life. If you are overly worried about stuff breaking an R32 is probably not the right choice anyway.

The exhaust cam on the Tomei's actually opens at 65 BBDC - the same as the stocker. Actually the difference between the A & the B's is all in the exhaust cam - it has an extra 8 degrees duration on the B, ie 260 rather than 252.

Yes there are. You need to re shim the valve train to get the clearances right. So at minimum you need spare shims for that. Also, if the motor is standard you are wasting your time installing type B Poncams as it won't improve performance in any meaningful way, just reduce midrange torque. If you must change cams the type A are a far better bet.

A 255/40/17 will foul the rear guards in an RE55 tyre on a +22 offset. Mine did anyway. So it will get ugly in a +15. The front is a bit different. With the amount of neg camber you need to run you will probably get away with a wider offset than a +22. Bridgestone recommend a 9" rim for a 255 bag tyre - you don't have to use drift tyre/rim sizing combinations.... Check also that a 17" rim will clear your brake rotor/calliper. 17" usually means 3345 rotor at maximum unless you are carefull with calliper & rim selection.

Random brake fetish questions: The Stop techs look all the world like F40/F50 clones. Do they share the same mount dimensions? Who are you getting to machine the brackets? Whose rotors you using. Lastly these folk may be worth trying for pads: www.polepositionusa.com These are the DS2500 pad for F40's. NFI if they match the Stoptechs, however. Note the PFC cross reference. http://www.polepositionusa.com/ferodo-frp3...-brake-pads.htm

If you can't remove the oil filter by hand then you have used too much torque when you put it on in the first place. It is a pretty common mistake that people make.

Dunno simply because I am not psychic. If I had to guess I would guess bearing.

Hmm, yellow fluid on the wheel. Does your neighbour own a dog by any chance? Check the shock by bouncing the corner of the car up & down. If it is stuffed & leaking there is a good chance there isn't much in the way of damping left.

But surely that is the point about owning a GTR - that they actually have a suspension system with the potential to allow them to go hard. Not some flush fitting nightmare that needs guard mods, wrong camber angles & undersized tyres to make it even half way fit. Why wreck what remains of the cars handling for some wannabe sexspec fashion.

Stock is fine for those numbers. In fact stock is better for response with those numbers.

Good answer. Except you missed the following in his original post: I don't want to run alot of camber or anything like that, and im not too keen on the idea of getting the gaurds modified.

They are too wide and the offset is wrong for the car. Just get something that fits and avoid all the pain.

RB20 or RB26?

And there I was just about to say don't buy second hand oil coolers. I wouldn't buy a second hand one unless I KNEW it wasn't from a motor that went bang. You don't want bits of someone elses engine in your oil system.

If ti crunches in reverse your clutch is dragging, not worn.

Well if it was nineteen sixty soemthing & you were driving an MG then the chances are the gearbox wouldn't have synchros on either first or reverse. But being a vaguely modern car it does atleast have synchros on first.