djr81

Nice.

Look all that stuff may sound impressive but it is a bunch of pseudo scientific psycho babble. In other words, rubbish.

Well putting aside the ludicrously high numbers it is not uncommon to see harder springs on the rears of GT-R's than on the fronts. The actually build them that way stock. Just not common on track R32 GT-R's because the ATTESSA system is so ordinary. Check the Nismo rates for the 32's, 33's & 34's. Harder rear springs help reduce understeer and an AWD car shouldn't really have traction problems so you don't need soft rear springs to help in that area so much. So all up it actually makes sense if you can make it work.

How? By running a longer LCA, a shorter UCA with the addition of bushes.

Do the sway bars first. They help make better use of whatever neg camber you have. If you do it the other way around you wont learn anything other than doing both of them is better than just doing the wheel alignment. If you put the bars in first you can then gauge how much of an effect the change in the wheel alignment has. As you will change alignment more than sway bars you are better off doing it that way around.

Well the first, obvious & easy thing to do is chuck the jack & the spare wheel out. Frankly I am surprised they let you out on circuit with them there. It is 20+kg you don't need to lug about. Brakes are largely a compound thing. What you plan will help. It is a GT-R it will understeer. You can only ever half fix it simply because the weight distribution is rubbish. If you don't have aftermarket sway bars then get some. As hard as like for the rear, adjustable for the front or just plain soft. I would chuck a rear bar at it then think about the front. As for the street/track thing - forget it. A track GT-R will run heaps of neg camber at the front . I run 5 degrees. Which is a world away from anything you want on the road. So you need to have a think about what you want. You cannot have a neutral car on the track & a nice one on the road unless you change a bunch of things everytime you go to the track.

Well it begs the question: For you how much is serious camber?

With the roof bar you can try turning it 90 degrees to clear the driver then sit the navigator on the floor. Which is probably a good idea anyway. They are much braver when they can't see over the dash.

Well, neither have I but I took the precaution of taping up the upright & link with some heat reflective tape to make sure it kept cool. Mabe if the rotten thing weren't so fat we wouldn't have this problem. Ateast the backs don't get anywhere near as hot as the front, but the inside pads wear alot faster than the outers.

There are a couple things to note: 1. At the rear the bushes for one of the suspension links is awfully close to the rotor. Have a good look and a think about it before you start grinding off stone guards. 2. The inner pads will run hotter than the outer pads - with or without stone guards removed. It is good practice to check to tapered pad wear on the inner pad as it is common even on callipers that have staggered piston sizes.

See attached from AP. p12099.pdf

Well ask & you may be surprised. They are (from memory) more expensive than the Japanese stuff but not massively so. Also it probably depends on the exchange rate a bit too so it would be worth asking the question.

My R 32 R had Whiteline eccentric bushes in it with a slightly lowered front ride height & Cusco castor rods. It destroyed the bushes at Wanneroo iwithin one days running. I would reckon a few other people have had that experience. At the end of the day you need to address the upper link & mount so that it lasts & so that you get some front end grip. In the absence of anyone making a decent front upper arm that can use bushes I made my own. Teamed with a Mismo link bracket (which is a stock with with different drill holes) it works fine. Marlin is 100% right also. I have seen alot of people with flash cars that couldn't drive out of sight on a dark night. For anyone in WA who wants to learn they could do alot worse that the the WASCC Competition Driving school. For $200 bucks it is a good way to spend some money. There is one on the 1st November.

The Quaiffe diffs are fundamentally different to the friction plate types from Nismo etc. They come with a lifetime guarantee. See here. http://www.quaife.co.uk/differentials

Actually if you ask nicely you can get a Cusco brake stopper that ties into the strut brace for a good price. Saves buying two different bits of gear.

Nah mate - paint all your home built bits - err, sorry custom fabricated components - Nismo silver. In other words whatever shade the rattle packs from Supercheap Auto come in. That is what I do anyway.

It is worth replacing both front arms & castor rods with A/M gear. But the rears, on a road car? Waste of money. On an R32 GTR you need a rear bar abour the same size as a scaffold tube.

Yeah more expensive & the killer punch is it is also less fun to drive.

All of what teh Baron said is spot on. But the few things highlighted above you should take to the bank. I would note that a set of RE55's in 17's is about $500 cheaper than the same width in 18's. Also driver training is the best/cheapest way of improving lap times when you are starting out. All that is sage advice, but this should be tattoed on the forehead on anyone who modifies a car.

Sorry mate, didn't mean to tease. If I did, however, I would have posted this: http://www.my105.com/classified.asp?id=14651 And this: http://www.my105.com/classified.asp?id=14650

55 seconds (Sub or otherwise) is actually a pretty good lap time in a GTR on the short circuit. But you need to remember that it (the short circuit) has only the pit straight where you can use any of the horsepower. The rest of it is corners & they are fiddly, mickey mouse ones for the most part. Frankly I can only think on one bloke who runs sub 55's in a R32 R with any regularity. If you want a good short circuit time sort the suspension & forget about the motor. God I hope they hurry the fk up with the track upgrade and we never have to use the short circuit ever again. There are only four real corners at Wanneroo. Only two of those are any fun. Guess which two the short circuit doesn't use????

Nah engines in the wrong end. This is what you want.

On an RB26 it is under the inlet manifold in line with number 3 cylinder or thereabouts. There is a screw in the front of it. Clockwise to lower the idle speed, anticlockwise to raise it. If you car is hunting at idle then adjust the thing clockwise.

The ones Nissan put in it when they built it will be fine. Just get some cam gears. There are 4,268 threads on this very subject if you want to look into it further.

Don't go near any of those cams with the turbos you are running. Infact keep the stock cams.