djr81

If you can't remove the oil filter by hand then you have used too much torque when you put it on in the first place. It is a pretty common mistake that people make.

Dunno simply because I am not psychic. If I had to guess I would guess bearing.

Hmm, yellow fluid on the wheel. Does your neighbour own a dog by any chance? Check the shock by bouncing the corner of the car up & down. If it is stuffed & leaking there is a good chance there isn't much in the way of damping left.

But surely that is the point about owning a GTR - that they actually have a suspension system with the potential to allow them to go hard. Not some flush fitting nightmare that needs guard mods, wrong camber angles & undersized tyres to make it even half way fit. Why wreck what remains of the cars handling for some wannabe sexspec fashion.

Stock is fine for those numbers. In fact stock is better for response with those numbers.

Good answer. Except you missed the following in his original post: I don't want to run alot of camber or anything like that, and im not too keen on the idea of getting the gaurds modified.

They are too wide and the offset is wrong for the car. Just get something that fits and avoid all the pain.

RB20 or RB26?

And there I was just about to say don't buy second hand oil coolers. I wouldn't buy a second hand one unless I KNEW it wasn't from a motor that went bang. You don't want bits of someone elses engine in your oil system.

If ti crunches in reverse your clutch is dragging, not worn.

Well if it was nineteen sixty soemthing & you were driving an MG then the chances are the gearbox wouldn't have synchros on either first or reverse. But being a vaguely modern car it does atleast have synchros on first.

Nice.

Look all that stuff may sound impressive but it is a bunch of pseudo scientific psycho babble. In other words, rubbish.

Well putting aside the ludicrously high numbers it is not uncommon to see harder springs on the rears of GT-R's than on the fronts. The actually build them that way stock. Just not common on track R32 GT-R's because the ATTESSA system is so ordinary. Check the Nismo rates for the 32's, 33's & 34's. Harder rear springs help reduce understeer and an AWD car shouldn't really have traction problems so you don't need soft rear springs to help in that area so much. So all up it actually makes sense if you can make it work.

How? By running a longer LCA, a shorter UCA with the addition of bushes.

Do the sway bars first. They help make better use of whatever neg camber you have. If you do it the other way around you wont learn anything other than doing both of them is better than just doing the wheel alignment. If you put the bars in first you can then gauge how much of an effect the change in the wheel alignment has. As you will change alignment more than sway bars you are better off doing it that way around.

Well the first, obvious & easy thing to do is chuck the jack & the spare wheel out. Frankly I am surprised they let you out on circuit with them there. It is 20+kg you don't need to lug about. Brakes are largely a compound thing. What you plan will help. It is a GT-R it will understeer. You can only ever half fix it simply because the weight distribution is rubbish. If you don't have aftermarket sway bars then get some. As hard as like for the rear, adjustable for the front or just plain soft. I would chuck a rear bar at it then think about the front. As for the street/track thing - forget it. A track GT-R will run heaps of neg camber at the front . I run 5 degrees. Which is a world away from anything you want on the road. So you need to have a think about what you want. You cannot have a neutral car on the track & a nice one on the road unless you change a bunch of things everytime you go to the track.

Well it begs the question: For you how much is serious camber?

With the roof bar you can try turning it 90 degrees to clear the driver then sit the navigator on the floor. Which is probably a good idea anyway. They are much braver when they can't see over the dash.

Well, neither have I but I took the precaution of taping up the upright & link with some heat reflective tape to make sure it kept cool. Mabe if the rotten thing weren't so fat we wouldn't have this problem. Ateast the backs don't get anywhere near as hot as the front, but the inside pads wear alot faster than the outers.

There are a couple things to note: 1. At the rear the bushes for one of the suspension links is awfully close to the rotor. Have a good look and a think about it before you start grinding off stone guards. 2. The inner pads will run hotter than the outer pads - with or without stone guards removed. It is good practice to check to tapered pad wear on the inner pad as it is common even on callipers that have staggered piston sizes.

See attached from AP. p12099.pdf

Well ask & you may be surprised. They are (from memory) more expensive than the Japanese stuff but not massively so. Also it probably depends on the exchange rate a bit too so it would be worth asking the question.

My R 32 R had Whiteline eccentric bushes in it with a slightly lowered front ride height & Cusco castor rods. It destroyed the bushes at Wanneroo iwithin one days running. I would reckon a few other people have had that experience. At the end of the day you need to address the upper link & mount so that it lasts & so that you get some front end grip. In the absence of anyone making a decent front upper arm that can use bushes I made my own. Teamed with a Mismo link bracket (which is a stock with with different drill holes) it works fine. Marlin is 100% right also. I have seen alot of people with flash cars that couldn't drive out of sight on a dark night. For anyone in WA who wants to learn they could do alot worse that the the WASCC Competition Driving school. For $200 bucks it is a good way to spend some money. There is one on the 1st November.

The Quaiffe diffs are fundamentally different to the friction plate types from Nismo etc. They come with a lifetime guarantee. See here. http://www.quaife.co.uk/differentials