djr81

You want to try pricing the 2500's for an F40. Then the inner pads get taper wear and you end up shuffling pad sets across the callipers to save a few bucks.

Oil cooler kits found on the passenger side behind the front bumper are aftermarket ones. The oil cooler shown above is as much an oil warmer as anything. It does very little to keep the oil cool. It is not uncommon for the part to fail also. So the question is - is there an aftermarket part that replaces the oil cooler bracket in the diagram at the top and removes the oil cooler/warmer as fitted by Nissan?

I got the twin lens kit with a 500D. I use the longer lens alot (for cars mostly) and the smaller one infrequently - mostly for boring family stuff. If you look at the price of buying the lens seperately you will see the value of buying the thing bundled. Also I would strongly recommend spending some coin on filters & hoods etc - etiher UV or polarizing. Polarizing are really good for cars & anything near water.

This is an F40 calliper. To the best of my knowledge it looks no different from an F50 - piston areas aside. It does look and is different from the Brembo's found on the R33's etc & from the current range of Brembo callipers. Also to the best of my knowledge there is no difference between an F40 & an F50 pad (Which in turn is the same as a Brembo equipped BA Falcon, oddly enough). Lastly I am not aware of there being any difference in the rotor sizes that these callipers can accomodate ie an F40 can go on a 324 rotor (like mine) a 343 rotor or a 355 rotor. As can an F50.

Late last month but it will have to do. Not very arty but well the thing is atleast crossed up and leaving tyre marks...

I found that the difference in the stock upper link bracket that mounts to the chassis and the Nismo one is the the Nismo unit rotates the arm and you get a correctly aligned upper link which stops flogging bushes. Having said that the harder bush I had made has not let me down in a number of years & a much larger number of track days. The stock Whitleine one lasted one track day. http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...ylinebnr32.html Set Contents Upper link bracket Transverse link Tension rod Changes Effective length of the tension rod has been shortened (-5mm) to provide optimum caster angle. Effective length of transverse link has been lengthened (+4mm) to provide optimal camber angle. The position of the installation holes on the upper arm of the upper link bracket has been changed to restrict the twisting that can result from high caster position, and provide optimal camber angle. * Changes in alignment, on standard vehicle height (Designed value): Caster angle: Before installation: 3°40’; after installation: 4°25’ Camber angle: Before installation: -0°55’; after installation: -1°25’ The figures above may vary by ±0.45, depending on individual vehicle characteristics.

Well there isn't much more info. I took a bush, measured it up & then went down to a local plastics machine shop and asked them directly what can you make this out of - it is for a car suspension bush and needs to be stiffer than this stuffed one? For the price of a carton of beer I got a couple of bushes - I am not 100% sure what they are. The key bit is they need to be sitffer than the stock ones so they don't get "pinched" by the arm. The other solution to all this is buy the Nismo suspension link kit.

It depends what you use them for, how much castor you run and what ride height you run. I have done a similar, if less dramatic thing to that style of bush in one track day. Basically the rear outer upper bush gets flogged out quickly. The solution I came up with was to use a harder bush in that position. Not had any trouble since. The compliance in the suspension is mostly in the castor rod. So if you run a castor rod without decent compliance and that style of bush kit you will be in line for an issue - IMHO anyway. Duncan's case is probably worse because he has to run stock rubbbish on a race car. Here the only workaround it to modify the attachment points of the inner arm at the bracket - this allows the arm to rotate. Which is pretty ugly. Also if you look at the Cusco fixed length arms they have (in plan view) a bigger offset. Something like 22mm instead of approx 15mm stock. This means less castor & presumably less load on the bearings that the Cusco arm uses.

Or just look here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sp...tr+spring+rates

Well maybe but by 1993 Prost had been in F1 for what, fourteen years? The first disasterous hook up with McLaren, the huge pressure when he was at Renault, seeing "his" McLaren team taken from him by Senna, getting sacked by Ferrari then facing the prospect of Senna turning up again at Williams. Like you say after four world championships it would have been enough for anyone. The reality is most F1 drivers don't retire on their own terms. In recent times a list of top line drivers who did would include Prost but also Rosberg, Hakkinen and beyond that I struggle. On the other side of the coin you would have to list Mansell, Piquet, Senna, Kimi, JPM, Schumacher (to come) and on and on. For what it is worth Jack Brabham managed to retire at or near the top of his game (in 1970) so not every Australian driver does an Alan Jones.

Look sorry if you took offense I certainly didn't mean any. I was just expressing my opinion that Webber isn't the sort of bloke just to chuck it all in - unlike Lauda who/which was the most apt reference (because of the GP) that came to mind. Just as an aside Piquet only left F1 because he could no longer get a decent drive. He went & did the Indy 500 (from memory) and smashed his legs up. A set of circumstances that I blame Tom Walkinshaw for. Like you say lots of drivers leave successful teams - mostly because they are either getting beaten by their team mate (eg Mansell from Ferrari or maybe Lauda from McLaren) or from just bad judgement about their teams prospects (eg Chris Amon from Ferrari). It is much less common for drivers to leave at the top of their game and not regret it. For example Alan Jones left Williams & did regret it. Both of his come backs were ordinary.

To do the job properly you need bigger callipers, bigger rotors & probably a new master cylinder.

The point was that the most famous example of a great driver walking away from a team happened at - wait for it - the Canadian Grand Prix. Niki Lauda did a number on Bernie Ecclestone's Brabham team in 1979. He walked out on the race weekend after a practice session. In 1981 Nelson Piquet won the drivers championship in a Brabham. So the point was that unlike Niki Lauda Mark Webber is unlikely to just walk away from his team. Next time I will try & remember most of the people here are completely unaware there was F1 before Schumacher turned up.

Mark Webber and Niki Lauda aren't the same person. I just thought someone should point that out.

The S tune is no longer available new as far as I know. So they may be hard to get. R33 Brembos are over rated & expensive. Also understand that running stock brakes is expensive too because you go through alot of pads, rotors & fluid. Catch 22 really. They aren't that expensive & make a BIG difference to lap speed. Also the interact with your suspension setup & the attessa system. Removing the front half is, I think, an engine out job. But worth it if you get the chance. ATTESSA clutch packs have an end shim that allows a certain amount of gap between the clutch plates when not working. As the plates wear this gap opens & you get a slow acting ATTESSA system. A controller can hide this but it is an expensive & long winded proper fix because you have to buy a particular thickness of shim fron Nissan that you cant measure until the system is out & in bits. Just saying that making lap speed needs quick gear changes which the synchros can't usually keep up with. The gears themselves should be fine just the synchros will in time not work so well.

Well what makes it better is does it suit your application? I got some F40's from Roy's house of brakes & they are good. Why? Because the radial mount & bracket allows me to use the calliper on different rotor sizes as what I want to run changes. So in other words if/when I want to schlong a bigger rotor at the thing I can use the same calliper, albeit with a bigger bracket. Also the mount allows you to do the same in regard to different "depth" rotors. Aside from that the pad is bigger & is infact the same size as they use on GT Falcon's etc with Brembos (BA's anyway). So every man and his dog have them available.

Ok well first point is that what Nissan intended was that the car be driven on the road and not the track. If you take your standard car to the track you will find it coming up short in a number of areas. Well, most of them really. Before going through the list I would like to offer the following free advice (worth every cent): Do not try & get half pregnant. In other words if you are even half serious about it you will end up with a solution that is a proper one and not a half measure. So implement the proper solution and don't waste money on doing it in bits. So thoughts are : Tyres. Go get some RE55 SR2 compounds. Don't muck about with the lesser compromises that try & be R comps but without the compound to do the job properly. Don't use road tyres on the track. They just get destroyed and you go slow. So get some RE55's & make sure you look after them - this means a good suspension package. Also get a good tyre gauge. Good meaning that it doesn't come from Supercheap Auto or similar. Keep notes. Suspension (springs, dampers) Too many people make the mistake of going ape with spring rates. Queensland Raceway is bumpy as hell so avoid big numbers on the spring rates. Nismo make (or made) a good unit with a 5.5kg/mm front & 4.5 kg/mm rear. Aim for something about that number. 3kg/mm springs will have the thing cornering on its door handles so avoid those too. Don't run the car too low. Swaybars. Whiteline/Selbys are ok. Cusco are better. Nismo are good too as the match the spring rates (if you can get some) Brakes. Standard R32 GT-R brakes are not up to the job. You will get fade after very few laps. Do not buy DBA 4000 rotors. I would recommend Project Mu gear. Pads Ferodo DS2500 are very good, if expensive. Remove the backing plates (be carefull at the rear due to the proximity of the arm bushes to the rotor) and get some ducting to the front rotors. Motul brake fluid (RBF660) is worth the investment. 4WD controller. Ruzik. HICAS removal. Yes. But take it all out & it is also a good idea to get a better cooler for the power steer system while you are about it. Also make sure the bushes are all good, the LSD & the ATTESSA clutches work as Nissan intended and get some serious -ve camber in the front end. Also read (and understand) about suspension theory and driving theory. That will help alot. Oh and start looking for a new gearbox....

The 500D has been replaced by the 550D so keep that in mind. You will get a camera with a couple lenses in a kit cheaper than buying lenses seperate to the camera. The twin lense Canon kits are pretty good value.

The "good" thing about them is they have the same piston area as the stock GTR Brembo - The F40 does anyway. The F50 is larger again. Makes it easier with regard to master cylinders etc.

Just be aware that if you do this in the shade it will tell you your sun load sensor is stuffed.

You are never going to get even wear on GT-R tyres, irrespective of how "perfect" your alignment is. You can replace the rubber bush in the castor rod with an adjustable type (as per the photo a few posts earlier). These are a better option than the complete after market replacement rod for several reasons: 1. The rubber bush is a major part of the longitudinal compliance in the front suspension. Removing it & replacing it with a spherical end removes compliance and makes the car ride alot more harshly. 2. Removing the bush (particularly in conjunction with lower suspension) puts alot more stress on the upper outer suspension arm bush. 3. You can't (without doing alot of other stuff) get much castor into an R32 GT-R anyway.

The external sensor is behind the grill, infront of the radiator.

When all else fails anti squeal paste is your friend.

I wouldn't expect him to jump either, but who knows what will happen if Webber keeps beating him. I'm sure Alonso would welcome a younger quicker driver into the fold at Ferrari. I read (or re read) the kind of money Ferrari chucked at Kimi last year to make him go away. With their kind of a budget anything is possible.

You should have got some bedding in instructions with the pads. Basically this involves running them up to a temperature until you can smell them by doing repeated 120-80 (Or whatever you feel comfortable with) stops. Once the pads have been bedded in properly they should be pretty quiet as a rule and, for that matter, work properly.