djr81

The S tune is no longer available new as far as I know. So they may be hard to get. R33 Brembos are over rated & expensive. Also understand that running stock brakes is expensive too because you go through alot of pads, rotors & fluid. Catch 22 really. They aren't that expensive & make a BIG difference to lap speed. Also the interact with your suspension setup & the attessa system. Removing the front half is, I think, an engine out job. But worth it if you get the chance. ATTESSA clutch packs have an end shim that allows a certain amount of gap between the clutch plates when not working. As the plates wear this gap opens & you get a slow acting ATTESSA system. A controller can hide this but it is an expensive & long winded proper fix because you have to buy a particular thickness of shim fron Nissan that you cant measure until the system is out & in bits. Just saying that making lap speed needs quick gear changes which the synchros can't usually keep up with. The gears themselves should be fine just the synchros will in time not work so well.

Well what makes it better is does it suit your application? I got some F40's from Roy's house of brakes & they are good. Why? Because the radial mount & bracket allows me to use the calliper on different rotor sizes as what I want to run changes. So in other words if/when I want to schlong a bigger rotor at the thing I can use the same calliper, albeit with a bigger bracket. Also the mount allows you to do the same in regard to different "depth" rotors. Aside from that the pad is bigger & is infact the same size as they use on GT Falcon's etc with Brembos (BA's anyway). So every man and his dog have them available.

Ok well first point is that what Nissan intended was that the car be driven on the road and not the track. If you take your standard car to the track you will find it coming up short in a number of areas. Well, most of them really. Before going through the list I would like to offer the following free advice (worth every cent): Do not try & get half pregnant. In other words if you are even half serious about it you will end up with a solution that is a proper one and not a half measure. So implement the proper solution and don't waste money on doing it in bits. So thoughts are : Tyres. Go get some RE55 SR2 compounds. Don't muck about with the lesser compromises that try & be R comps but without the compound to do the job properly. Don't use road tyres on the track. They just get destroyed and you go slow. So get some RE55's & make sure you look after them - this means a good suspension package. Also get a good tyre gauge. Good meaning that it doesn't come from Supercheap Auto or similar. Keep notes. Suspension (springs, dampers) Too many people make the mistake of going ape with spring rates. Queensland Raceway is bumpy as hell so avoid big numbers on the spring rates. Nismo make (or made) a good unit with a 5.5kg/mm front & 4.5 kg/mm rear. Aim for something about that number. 3kg/mm springs will have the thing cornering on its door handles so avoid those too. Don't run the car too low. Swaybars. Whiteline/Selbys are ok. Cusco are better. Nismo are good too as the match the spring rates (if you can get some) Brakes. Standard R32 GT-R brakes are not up to the job. You will get fade after very few laps. Do not buy DBA 4000 rotors. I would recommend Project Mu gear. Pads Ferodo DS2500 are very good, if expensive. Remove the backing plates (be carefull at the rear due to the proximity of the arm bushes to the rotor) and get some ducting to the front rotors. Motul brake fluid (RBF660) is worth the investment. 4WD controller. Ruzik. HICAS removal. Yes. But take it all out & it is also a good idea to get a better cooler for the power steer system while you are about it. Also make sure the bushes are all good, the LSD & the ATTESSA clutches work as Nissan intended and get some serious -ve camber in the front end. Also read (and understand) about suspension theory and driving theory. That will help alot. Oh and start looking for a new gearbox....

The 500D has been replaced by the 550D so keep that in mind. You will get a camera with a couple lenses in a kit cheaper than buying lenses seperate to the camera. The twin lense Canon kits are pretty good value.

The "good" thing about them is they have the same piston area as the stock GTR Brembo - The F40 does anyway. The F50 is larger again. Makes it easier with regard to master cylinders etc.

Just be aware that if you do this in the shade it will tell you your sun load sensor is stuffed.

You are never going to get even wear on GT-R tyres, irrespective of how "perfect" your alignment is. You can replace the rubber bush in the castor rod with an adjustable type (as per the photo a few posts earlier). These are a better option than the complete after market replacement rod for several reasons: 1. The rubber bush is a major part of the longitudinal compliance in the front suspension. Removing it & replacing it with a spherical end removes compliance and makes the car ride alot more harshly. 2. Removing the bush (particularly in conjunction with lower suspension) puts alot more stress on the upper outer suspension arm bush. 3. You can't (without doing alot of other stuff) get much castor into an R32 GT-R anyway.

The external sensor is behind the grill, infront of the radiator.

When all else fails anti squeal paste is your friend.

I wouldn't expect him to jump either, but who knows what will happen if Webber keeps beating him. I'm sure Alonso would welcome a younger quicker driver into the fold at Ferrari. I read (or re read) the kind of money Ferrari chucked at Kimi last year to make him go away. With their kind of a budget anything is possible.

You should have got some bedding in instructions with the pads. Basically this involves running them up to a temperature until you can smell them by doing repeated 120-80 (Or whatever you feel comfortable with) stops. Once the pads have been bedded in properly they should be pretty quiet as a rule and, for that matter, work properly.

If your 2500's are squeeling the solution is simple. Get some temperature into them. Seriously - give the brakes a pasting for a few minutes and they will quieten down for a good period after that. When it happens again a few weeks later repeat the exercise.

The more trackwidth you run at one end relative to the other will help promote grip at that end. In terms of the effect it has on balance I would regard it as being small with the kinds of numbers you are talking about.

Well at 50% more expensive than the Project Mu ones they would want to do something for you.

Last time I checked Endless rotors were not a cheap night out. You may be able to do better, however. Duralium is just a type of aluminium. The hats stand up fine & will outlast the rotors. They are usually anodised. What happens is that it usually works just as cheap to get the whole hat/rotor combination that it is to buy a rotor & the bobbins seperately. If you are interested I have a couple of second hand Project Mu 2 piece rotors for a R32 R in my shed that are for sale.

The project Mu rotors aren't regular pillars in the same sense as the stuff you get from RDA. In terms of how much air they pump the order would be: RDA (ie pillar design). DBA (dogbone design) Project Mu (whatever you may like to call what they fit to the 2 piece rotor) Fully vaned rotors, obviously the more vanes the more air they move, also the heavier they are. There are others - oddball stuff - but in terms of what you may reasonably get locally (or import) the list is pretty much Project Mu, Endless, Biot & APP. Of those an imported Project Mu rotor is probably going to be the cheapest. Having used them they are very good.

Gotta love the interweb. To make things clear. I understand your position(s). I disagree with them. That doesn't make me ignorant.

Is it a 32 or a 33? Your thingo says a 32 but the post a couple previous says 33. Again look to the Nismo rates for the thing. You will see the rates on a 33 are harder.

The other downside of the multitudes of tards is that as a customer it is really difficult to find an importer/compliance shop who CAN dedicate the right amount of time to do a quality job. Razor slim margins & constant whinging from tight arses makes it hard for proper customers to get proper service.

I reckon they are too high for an R32 Gt-R. If you have a look at the rates Nismo recommend you can't go far wrong. For me 5/4 is good 5.5/4.5 is good too. But as I said you need to look at three things in conjunction with this. 1 How well is the ATTESSA system working (eg do you have a controller - if you do you can arguably run a higher rear rate relative to the front.) 2. You need to address the front & rear camber angles. 3. Sway bars are needed too. Good swaybars at that.

Generally a softer spring generates more grip at the end of the car it is fitted to. On the road you don't have the same level of issues typically found on the track with things such as weight transfer etc. So you can get away such low rates. Track cars typically need softer rear springs (relative to front) to help with traction. This is at the price of front grip & is why most track R32 Gt-r's run alot of front end neg camber, stiff rear sway bars & softer front sway bars.

It is a simple argument. The technology, engineering, tolerencing, build quality etc etc of an F1 car is so far outside that required on a road car as to be irrelevent to it. The competition in F1 is so fierce none of the people working there would give a rats arse about road car design. Yes there may be some materials/principles etc that are common. But the sort of CNC machined wotsit made out from the heart of a forging of unobtainium & lifed to last 5 seconds that you find on an F1 car is nowhere near anything ever seen on a road car. The only real influence F1 has on road cars is fashion. Underbody aero became big in F1 in the late 70's. Does stuff take 30 years to filter down?

0-5V

You hear of them if you follow Ff1. Anyway I would like to know when the following items will be seen on my next road car: 13" rims. Pneumatic valves on the motor. Inconel exhausts. Wooden plank underneath to mess up the aero. F duct. Oh bugger lets go old school: Active suspension what happened to that? Aluminium monocoque chassis - where are they? Sliding skirts. Fuel that makes your eyes water & gives you cancer. Lithium anything. Berillium anything. The linds is endless. The amount of F1 tech that transfers to road cars is almost non existant. Some of the fashion makes the leap across. Don't for instance think that the gearboxes on the race cars have anything in common with anything seen on a road car. It is just fashion. Having said that the new Porkers gearboxes are a good thing. Shame the F1 motors can't do direct injection.

At the risk of be off topic - I just want to say. This thread is awesome. Just awesome.