djr81

Weaving on the striaght to break a tow has been going on for a very long time. It is quite different from moving about in the braking zone to make overtaking difficult. It was not dangerous to Petrov simply because he wasn't up alongside Hamilton. He was behind him - in the tow. Hamilton cleaned up his act by the braking zone - where Petrov nailed him anyway. It is actually an indictment on the state of F1 where a driver using an age old tactic is warned is such a pointless manner. There was nothing reckless, or even wrong, with it.

Well if you have a closer look you will notice the front end is running alot of -ve camber plus a bunch of other non standard bits. About four degrees. I could easilly make it look more "flush" by winding some out. Which was my point, really. You need to know both the wheel/tyre size, the ride height & the amount of -ve camber. They are all inter related. Best thing to do is to try a rim.

The dot 4-600 range of fluids is as good as you need & it is easily available. Try the Motul RBF 660 & even the PBR (?) stuff. The 600 is its (dry) boiling point in degrees F. Which is better than the dot 5.1 fluids. Hence there is no need to mess about with the 5.1 nonsense.

Import yourself some 2 piece project mu rotors - they are much better than the DBA 5000's (IMHO). They are lighter than the 1 piece rotors too. I am fairly sure you cannot get 2 piece rear rotors for the smaller size on the GT-R's.

0.7??? Maybe for a semi trailing arm rear with the shock just over half way along.....are you sure Roger has the right model Skyline? The shock is connect to the hub so hub moves 1mm, shock moves 1mm. Or a tiny bit more because of the angle it is on. So 1:1 sounds right to me.

At some stage a historian will be able to pin point the exact time owning a GTR turned into a pissing competition about how much rim/tyre/offset could be shoved under the guards. You are having troubles fitting the rims because they have too much offset & are an half an inch to an inch wider than they need to be. Not having a go at you but I get sick of people trying to talk up wheel tyre sizes to the detriment of suspension geometry & handling - not to mention tyre life.

A 17*9" +22 rim is a very good fit for an R32 GTR. I have that size on mine. They are CE28's which clear an F40 calliper on a 324 rotor. The thing you have to understand is that the amount of camber you run will have a big impact on how flush the top of the tyre sits to the guard. You can make just about anything fit if you run stupid amounts of negative camber. Also it is common for the rear guard lip to contact the tyre if the ride height is low - a 255/40 rear tyre in a Briudgestone RE55 will usually do so. As far as calliper clearance unless you can get a diagram of the wheel/calliper the only way to confirm it is to see it. Enkei are usually pretty good on the clearance but it can depend on the calliper alot too.

I understand your point, but I still reckon I would watch that.

Yes but Red Bull have a rather large income stream (ie those crap energy drink things) whereas Williams & McLaren (to a lesser extent) don't have much other than sponsorship. You need to remember the huge money both teams invested in their facilities. Williams in the 90's & McLaren more recently. The McLaren HQ is, by all accounts, breathtaking. The Williams one was, in its day, head and shoulders above anyone else. Actually if you look at the grids in the 80's you will see that more than half the cars were absolute rubbish. The best season preview assessment of a car I ever read went as follows: Eurobrun. Absolutely & totally shite. F1 has, in recent years, been much closer than historically was the case.

There is a slight difference. McLaren, Williams are private companies. Ferrari, on the other hand, used to run those FIAT stickers for a reason. Actually, on average, F1 is mediocre.

For my 10 cents worth you are best off buying a simple, finished track car & learning how to drive it. There is alot to learn. I mean alot. Whilst it may seem to be fun to build something you need to keep in mind you are going to be pushing it hard & therefore it is not something you necessarilly want to learn about spannering on. Anyway finished/running cars are very good value compared with most things you can build yourself.

Yes. Start by learning more about how suspension works. That isn't a smart arsed answer & probably not the one you are after but I would seriously suggest you try & learn about car/suspension behaviour as a start point It will help you get more out of what you have & better guide you on what to buy in future.

The F40's (like most stuff on SAU) came from Roy. They are a good calliper & take a pad from the 4 pot Brembos on the Falcons of all things. Makes me wonder if all those Brembos on Foulcans can be put to better use? The rotors are stock R33 gear, ie 324x30. Still trying to find a 345 rotor to suit & get bracket made. Project Mu don't quote the offset for their 345 rotor for the Nissan (Part Number FC44 N102A & FS44 N102A with the callipers dependent on which calliper). I found the bias to be a little too far rearward so I reckon the bigger rotor would be excellent. The issue(s) I had with the ABS ECU are obviously that the cycle rate is rubbish but more so that the damn thing doesn't appear to actually release the locked wheel when you are on R compounds. Maybe the line pressure is too high but it doesn't function at all well as ABS on the track. Makes me wonder why bother carrying it. R33 computers/ATTESSA looks like an idea. No need for the 33 V-spec stuff but if the povvo pack gear works on a 32 that would be excellent. Although having said that with the Ruzic controller there isn't too much wrong with the 32 ATTESSA - as long as it is shimmed to spec.....

Can I ask a stupid question at this stage? I have upgraded my brakes to the Brembo size (F40, Brembo rears & larger master cylinder). The ABS on the R32 was originally pretty ordinary. With the larger brakes it is even worse. Does the povvo pack ABS unit have enough capacity to release the large pistons on the Brembo callipers or do you need a different unit? I suppose the question is: Is an R32 V-spec ABS unit different to the poverty pack GTR version? A second dumb question relates to the Vspec ATTESSA unit rate. Can you sling in a later unit from a 33 ie up from 4Hz to 100Hz & does this affect the ABS??? Sorry for the thread hijack.

To enter most motokhanas, sprint events, hillclimbs etc you need a level 2S cams licence. See www.cams.com.au To get that licence you need a car club membership (which No Limits can do for you) and to fill out some forms. No limits can set you up with a temporary licence on the night (If its a once off) or for the year. The No limits events are a good way to get an instructor in the car with you to help explain how to get around the circuit and also to get a good number of laps in with timing which can otherwise be pretty difficult. Highly recommend them.

They welcome new people. No one is expecting Ayrton Senna to turn up. Half the point of the excercise is to go & learn.

Speaking of things being painfull. I bought a new Canon SD card video camera. It takes good videos but appears to use a .mov file format which my dodgy Microsoft video editing software fails to recognise. Any ideas what I can use instead?

There was an R35 at Wanneroo on the weekend running 20" R888's.

I would also have a good look to see what project mu have available. They may be more expensive (depending on which of their rotors you buy) but I can assure you they are far superior to either brand you have listed.

Yeah but the point is you need to find the maximum grip the tyre has which will coincide with a certain amount of steering input (brake & accelerator input aside). If you find reach that point more or less steering input can & will only reduce the cars cornering grip. It is a point lost on too many people.

Try this for an explanation of the self aligning torque you feel through the steering wheel versus the slip angle the tyre is generating. http://www.creativecarcontrol.co.uk/modelgrip.htm

No they cannot. You won't get a GTR with a build date before August 1991 in white. Prior-term type: 1989 August 21st - Under carriage number 000051 – 017466 Mid-term type: 1991 August 20th - Under carriage number 212001 – Latter-term type: 1993 January - Under carriage number 300001 - 314649 Standard setting body color Prior-term type Gang ray metallic (KH2) Jet silver metallic (KG1) Dark blue pearl (TH1) Lead pearl metallic (AH3) Black pearl metallic (732) Mid-term type/latter-term type Crystal white (326) Spark silver metallic (KL0) Gang ray metallic (KH2) Lead pearl metallic (AH3) Black pearl metallic (732)

Yes they wanted half a million or more (Depending on which source you believe) to hold a race here in WA. The contract then goes up by a lazy $100,000 per year or so for the next five years. That money could otherwise be spent on upgrading facilities. The WASCC spends such money as they have on circuit upgrades. The V8 crowd want it every which way. Huge fees from the cricuits/promoters and massive amount spent on upgrades entirely for their own benefit. Without caring that one precludes the other. The GHD report to the government on the Wanneroo upgrade (Worth an est $24 million) clearly stated that it is not viable for the club to finance an expansion by itself. That is part of the reason for the state signing up to help out. They have already committed the first $6 million.

It is common for early R32's to be repainted white. The Japanese love it for some reason. You couldn't buy and early model R32 GT-R in white - mostly they are gun metal ghey. As long as it is done well then there really aren't any issues.