Snowman

Honestly I've been driving it around all weekend and today and am having serious 2nd thoughts. Especially after my fang at lunch time today. It was feeling really sweet now that the Autronic tune is just about sorted. *sigh* - it's all so hard.

I can't say for sure if this Z-Tune could run a flat 10 or not. However what I can say is that in the Dutton Rally Vic this year the Z-Tune on the Airport run ran a best time of 15.46s. It should be noted that Mark Berry's best time for that event is 15.76s and Mark has run a 10.4s 1/4 mile. So the Z Tunes drag time was under Marks time and Marks 10.4s was done on R Comps. Having competed against the car there is no question it's a decent bit of kit.

So any word on who actually won this thing this time?

Snowies Talent Improving Sugestion #1. Avoid fixed objects such as fences at all times....

No - thats just a talent problem That was definitely an EVO event given I was 1.5s fast in James car than I was in my car in that one run.

Sif you could beat me anyways. Remember - I design the events so I'll make them GT-R friendly.

Brakes are free. You can also go upto 2" bigger in rim diameter - but rim width has to remain standard. So if the R34 rims are 18 x 9 you could technically run 20 x 9 rims - but good luck finding tyres to fit them. What he can't do however is run the 18 x 9.5 LMGT4's that are on the car now because they are technically widder.

If you think Jim Richards Porsches have been stock you're dreaming. From what I can gather Targa is about cheating as mcuh as you possibly can. As I was once told by a well known Tarmac Rally Icon in Australia "internal engine mods are fee". So basically cheat with everything out of sight or easy access. For my car other than the obvious cage the only real things needed to change are intercooler, exhaust and airbox. And according to him thats mainly for Targa Tas as events like Buller, Lake Mountain and Targa West are a little more forgiving. Those events are more interested in people trying to run with things like carbon fibre doors *cough - Jeff Beaumont - cough* The saddest part would be if this guy is keen is that he'll be painting it yellow! But he's also looking at a Black NUR thats in the country. I'll know by next weekend.

Haha - it's only going to be sold if the right buyer comes along. I'll only be selling it if I can get what I want for it - and I'll be getting something to replace it don't worry about that. Had a guy look at it today though that owns 13 cars including 2 x porsches and drives a ferrari stradale as his daily driver that's interested in it for a Targa Car so we'll see what comes of that.

I've just found out my wife is pregnant with our second child so am considering selling my car for the right offer. I've spent over $40K on it this year alone and could do with getting some of that back before the new bub arrives next year. It's a 1999 V Spec - 50,000km's - however it's currently done less than 500km's since a full rebuild including new block, rods, pistons, crank and balancer. The car has been set-up specifically designed to be fast as it can for tarmac rally / touring rally / circuit racing. Pretty much other than a carbon-fiber prop shaft it has exactly the same goodies as the famous Mines R34 GTR including turbo's, cams and diff's. It's currently making 362rwkw's @ 25psi on pump fuel (BP Ultimate). I'm the 2nd owner and have had the car since mid 2003. I'll consider offers around the $100K mark. Mods include: Engine RB26DETT Aria Forged Pistons ARP Rod Bolts Eagle Forged Rods Tomei Metal Head Gasket Tomei 260-9.15/260-9.15 intake and exhaust Poncams Tomei Fuel Pump Racingline Adjustable Cam Gears Ross Tuffbond Harmonic Balancer Sard 700cc Injectors Apexi Dual Intake Pods N1 Oil Pump N1 Water Pump Apexi Front Pipes Blitz NUR Spec Exhaust 2 x HKS 25/30 Turbo’s Trust Intercooler Race Aluminum Radiator Serck Oil Cooler with remote filter Racepace Catch-can. Handling HKS/Dynamic (UK) remote reservoir racing suspension King Springs Whiteline Heavy Duty Sway Bars (front and rear) Racepace custom upper control arms Nismo Lower control arms Cusco castor rods Pineapples Hicas Lock Bar Driveline Getrag 6 speed gearbox Jim Berry Custom Twin Plate Clutch Racepace modified Attessa system Nismo 2 way rear diff 4.111 front diff Wheels and Brakes Rays Nismo LMGT4 rims (Bronze 18 x 9.5) Toyo R888 tyres (255/40/18) AP Racing CP5555 6 Pot front calipers 375mm Alcon Rotors – Ferodo DS3000 pads Brembo Rear Calipers DBA 4000 Rotors – Comp 2 pads Cusco Master Cyliner Stopper URAS Competition Handbrake Shoes Electronics Autronic SM4 ECU (including Launch Control, Anti-lag, Flat Shift etc) Autronic R500 CDI Nismo MFD HSK EVC 3 Boost Controller Raceworx Attessa Controller Orange TPMS Interior Nismo 320km/hr Dash Nismo Titanium Gear Knob ERG 4 point harness Eclipse CD/DVD player Boston Rally Splits

See I haven't been able to get a definite answer on the "3rd" sensor in the R33/R34's. Basically the only answer I have been given which half makes sense is the traction loss one which is why I've been told you can't put the R33/R34's into RWD mode with a simple fuse pull. Anyways - as far as Ian's problem with oversteer goes and his desire for more FWD the information regarding the lateral and longitudinal sensors is all right.

IanB - I'll try my best to explain the system as I understand it as it's something I've been fiddling with recently. As you mentioned the R32 system is different to the R33/R34 system in that the later models have an extra sensor to help increase the front wheel drive in times of loss of traction in the rear wheels. But for you I'll explain how your system works and why the Raceworx Attessa controller (Found Here) will fix your problem rather than a fix split system such as the Grid TS Dancer. In the R32 you have 2 G sensors. A longitudinal sensor detecting accelerating G-forces and a lateral sensor detecting cornering forces. What you should find in an extreme straight line force - such as a standstill launch you will be able to gain full FWD capabilities no problems. However - what a lot of people don't understand is that the lateral sensor actually REDUCES front wheel torque. So basically as the car corners harder the amount of drive to the front will reduce allowing more RWD and the chance to basically power slide out (aka - the objective is no understeer). However in the R32's because there is no detection for wheel slip you can find it's far too much RWD especially if you have come from a FWD or AWD background. So what the principle of the Raceworx Attesa controller does is that it is a voltage reducer of the lateral G-sensor. So basically as you start cornering hard the lateral G-sensor will be telling the Attessa to reduce front wheel torque. With the controller you will basically be able to reduce the influence of that signal to what ever level your style of driving prefers. This type of system is much more preferable to a fix style system as it will still allow the benifits of an ACD unlike a fixed torque system. Hope that helps a little and clears a few things up.

Nice one Rod. My choice of color for the EVO's as well. With a few carbon bits and a nice set of rims the white ones come up sweeeet. Only problem is selecting WHICH rims to get as there are so many options - even in color between gun metal and gold too. Such as Or

Rod - you know Funboy (Lowth) and Fooboy purchased EVO's on Tues night too? (New 9s).

Wasn't me! I'd say Age but then he doesn't have the power to change Avatars so I have NFI who did it!

I should have got a white one. Apparently they are faster....

Well I have to say that was a great day. The turnout and venue was just awesome. It looked fantastic down there. Big kudos to our mighty club President Jamezilla for getting us this great location. Also a big thanks to everyone that came down to the day. It was great to see a whole bunch of cars and people that we don't get to see around the club on many of our other events.

URAS make an awesome upgraded handbrake shoe for Skylines - if you plan on doing a fair bit of handbrake stuff for either drifting or motokhana's/autocross. I use them and they make a big difference over the standard shoes. http://www.uras.com.au/ For stock ones you are probably better off at a wreckers. From what I gather it's one size fits all for skylines.

Also if you have ever driven with the handbrake on the shoe and drum can glaze up and become pretty much useless. It's easy to fix - just pull it all appart and rough it back up with some emrey paper.

Yep no worries Hus

Damn Oath - next year I'm back to give it a crack.

Fabraications - in Braeside Merridian Motorsports - in Moorabin Melborune Performance Centre in Bayswater and there is also some other joint in bayswater as well. BJM's or something??

Cheers All. But it's really most unexciting this year...

Yep - the points for the championship need to be altered. Basically for the champioship where someone came 1st they'll need 50 points instead of 1 point then 2nd will get 49 points etc. This is what happens when James does the results. But then what can you expect from a Lancer driver.

Yep ferni I think it's time I started making GT-R favourable tracks again. Next time....