Snowman

It probably would have IF I could have given it the current it needed to run! Was blowing 50A fuses in 3s.

I'm not surprised given the 1st screen I got was one from John that he had left over from the old R34 days. We couldn't get that to work at all. But does anyone have any details on who the V8 Supercar mob are?

yeah but I'm going to need one before mid-march!

The issue was with the guards. But it looked modified as they were rolled a lot. Mind you - they seem to be out to get him for some reason so maybe others would get away with it no problems. But Adam is having lots of fun currently because he's quick so he must be cheating. But I just thought I'd mention it.

I know Adam Newton just got a non-conformance issued by the powers that be for rolling the guards on his EMO 4 as he tried to fit 9's under his car. So just a heads up on that one.

Can I be pointed in the right direction by someone for where I could get one of these done for an R34. I'm on my second version for an R34 heated front screen and so far they have both not worked (one was a proper made version that was drawing way to many amps to be usable and the other was a self stick on version that un-stuck itself the first time the sun shone on the windscreen). OT - My buddy got one of these UK versions for his EMO and I must say its very awesome. I'd love one but would be happy enough with anything that worked!

Really the major difference between the 2 is the amount of boost they are running. Either way - they were both good track set-ups thats for sure. For everything else I'd prefer Ash's one.

Not sure what the point of this thread is - but I can say my 3yo daughter drew a pretty picture like that one as well earlier today For what it is worth the black one I think is my old 2007 Dutton set-up. Now Ash mentioned it was going to be "different" because it was in an R34 but infact that would have been from when it had the full R33 drive train in it so it really should be comparable. Funnily enough we have noticed that there is a small drop in power on the dyno and a shift in the curve line to the right when we went from the R33 drive train to the R34 drive train on the N1 set-up. So it seems you can't ever really compare an R34 to R33/R32 graph on the same dyno exactly. (Be an interesting one to try and dig up and show one day too).

Front is Nismo 1.5 way. Rear is Nismo 2 way. This is the same set-up as the old car. Anyways - doesn't matter for now. Tomorrow we are putting new arms in the car to get the alignment right (Thumbs up for that rule change). Will take it for a drive and see if that makes any noticeable difference in feel. If not I will try swapping back to the original non-V 4wd computer. And if that fails will pull the rear diff out and play with that. After that it will be time to look for the matches!

The thing is with my last set of A050's - when they over heated about 3cms of rubber from each of the loop part of the inside set of "hooks" completely tore out so the tyre there was as flat as the tread depth. The outside set of hooks weren't so badly effected - but the whole tyre looks..... ugly. And not used R comp ugly. This is different. And back from each of those sections where the tyre was completely gone the rubber looks blistered and bubbly rather than the usual grainy effect. This especially happened on the rear tyres and as I said it happened suddenly after only limited use. Hot pressures were 32psi. Now I am not sure if they were maybe not cycled properly or something (they did the HWY drive to Mansfield and one semi-spirited drive up Mt Buller 2 days before they were used which is about all I normally do) or whether it was just a funny batch or whether its what ever is wrong with the car is doing to the tyres as the first set didn't do this - but then that was at Targa where it was basically wet the whole time anyways - and they were on the old car.

No the regs changed Jack and we can run the old Benno 3.5" exhausts now. So for all intensive purposes my car is the same as Scotsmans car - at least engine / turbo / power wise. And when we went to Winton just before Xmas for the test he ran a 1.35.1 (and said it was a bad lap) to my 1.37.5 and I reckon I got everything possible out of it and we were on the track at the same time. We were also both running Teins with the same springs. The old car used to run 1.34's around there easy with that set-up. So in theory with my car being so much lighter than his now I should be quicker than him all other things being equal. I reckon the car should be good for 33's around there now but its miles off that right now.

the question is though - if its a diff problem why is it fast on new tyres? Surely if the diff was too tight this would be more noticeable when there is more grip? I'm starting to wonder if the whole problem is just the tyres themselves. I've done so little testing work with these A050's as they are definitely the bee's knee's when they are new and if its wet but I just wonder if the whole problem is simply a case of them being no good on a hard driven GT-R over long runs (aka - if you give them a baking they are shot forever). Because it was only after I cooked them at THC on the stage before lunch that the car lost speed. And at TT10 I was definitely "faster" relatively speaking at the start of the event compared to the end - but I had put that down to other factors (such as crashing into a tree). And all of the track "testing" I have done has been on these older A050's. Food for thought - maybe I will try and track down a set of trusty RE55's for TWP to knock this theory on the head.

Richard - I have a Nismo front and rear 2 way LSD. But that was the same as the old car. Only difference is the rear diff is a brand new one. The only 3 major changes are the gearbox, the weight difference (150kgs lighter) and the fact its now a Non-V base. Otherwise its the same damn car. Well sorry - there's 4 major changes. It's now white instead of blue but I'm pretty sure that ain't it.

Its not the ratio's - I've run good times with the 6 speed back in the old says no worries. Infact the gearbox is a massive improvement I reckon - but it is probably half the reason why SOP it feels so damn fast now even though its not. But Richard other than the rear diff HOW is the 4WD between the V Spec and non V Spec different? Are the G Sensors / wheel sensors etc different or the same? I took the dash out of the old car because it was a fancy white Nismo 320km/hr jobby. It also meant my car instantly became 50,000kms newer! LOL But with the standard non-Vspec computer in it the LSD light didn't come on. The thing that has me mostly beat is the whole "Fast on new tyres" thing. This is why we thought it was suspension. Because the car now on old tyres under-steers into corners and then moves to oversteer as soon as its neutral even before you even apply power. So we thought the problem was it was too soft - so we changed back to the old well known Teins that I still have with heavier springs and the car was no different and no faster (or slower). I've got an old set of both Dunlop DZ03 R's and some A050 M's and it appears to be the same on both tyres so I'm not convinced its tyre related. But on brand new A050's the car hammers. But that could be simply because the tyres are masking the problem with general grippiness. But the speed only lasted half a day at THC and then it slowly got worse over the event as the tyres lost their edge. I know the alignment isn't quite the same for some reason (can't get as much camber and castor at the front into this new car for some reason) - but I can't see how that alone equals +3s/lap at Winton and Sandown. I'm trying a different set of upper arms before TWP and if that doesn't work I will try swapping over the entire suspension and drive train out of a known fast car and see if that changes anything. LOL

Well the old car was a V Spec but I ran it with a Nismo mechanical diff (All the V Spec pumps and etc were gone). So there should be no difference in that front. And the old car ran fine like that. Its the ATTESSA side that I'm not sure about which was why we changed the controllers over. The controllers between the non-Vspec and the V-Spec do look different. But I'm not sure if the difference is solely in the controlling of the V Spec diff or if there is some difference in the ATTESSA side too. From what I have ready the ATTESSA ETS-Pro was standard on ALL R34 models (and R33 V Specs) So they should be the same. The only main noticeable difference I got was I now have a red Active LSD light on my dash now that I plugged the other controller in. LOL

Car was essentially all the bits from the old car put into the new car. However the rear diff is new (old one was shagged) - so that might be a possible problem. there might be something wrong with this "new" diff. Also - the transfer case is a new one to the old car since its now the 6 speed box instead of the 5 speed one - but was freshened and shimmed. However - the 4WD system seemed odd when we first drove the car (it was REALLY taily and was not transfering much power to the fronts at all). The old car was a V Spec - and this one is a non-V Spec so we initially swapped the 4WD controllers over between the cars since they ARE different - but we don't know what the actual difference between the 2 controllers is. The taily-ness went away but I don't know if we have created other issues. (We also did a few other things like re-bled the transfer case as well when we swapped the controllers so not sure WHAT we did to fix that problem).

I'm in for TWP and for TT11 - but not sure how many more I will do in the future. It's such a drain on time these events! Mind you - my lack of motivation isn't being helped by the fact I still can't work out what is wrong with the new car. It feels really fast from the drivers seat - but its just not and I don't know why. No time to play with it before TWP either. We did a test day late last year where we put the old shocks back in but that made no difference and its still over 1s/km slower than the old one even though it should be a whole bunch faster given its 150kgs lighter now. The engine feels good and the car WAS fast on brand new tyres but on partly used tyres there is no speed at all. It's weird and annoying so I will just go off to TWP and see if I can't finish it for once and try and work it all out before TT.

That's awesome Dane. If only I didn't have a stupid money sucking GT-R I'd seriously consider it!

Awesome - I was just talking to Brisby about this one a couple of days ago http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/2277673.htm Such cool cars.

All the races are easy if you use 11ty KW cars with all the mods and good tyres. Sunday Cup in a Veyron FTW! But go and win the light-weight up in a stock Midget. I've been trying to make it my challenge to win everything in 100% stock car (its a good way to save lots of $$$ for buying cars too!) But it definitely increases the challenge of the game. It's too easy to make the game easy though...

Slow down a little Also at the track in the wet it often has more grip OFF of the racing line. (especially under brakes - brake more towards the in-side line if that makes sense).

lol

Oh well aren't you going to get a nice shiny piece of plastic

Sorry Russ...

I had a double decker bus to deal with the 1st time I went! Came as a real shock as the Ring is so blind most of the time and so you just tend to come across slow things in a hurry! The Ring copy in the game is pretty good. Better than GT4 was. The only thing it misses is the bumps like at Fuchsrohre and as you launch off Pflanzgarten, plus the Karusell which nearly rattles your teeth out in real life is dead smooth in the game.